change fuel filter first and if problem not fixed, change spark plugs
Engine is hesitating when the pedal is to the metal & hi
Engine is hesitating when the pedal is to the metal & high
My Engine is hesitating when the pedal is to the metal & at high rev:
When realy pushing hard while sustain climb, the engine is hesitating, look like miss fire.
anybody could help
My Engine is hesitating when the pedal is to the metal & at high rev:
When realy pushing hard while sustain climb, the engine is hesitating, look like miss fire.
anybody could help
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
My car is only 100k is it already the time for the plug and the filter. In any case I will verify the plug and change the filter. Any one knows were the filter is located and how long it takes to replace it. Is it a do your self job or is it located inb an ocward location needing a lift. :???:
If you have never changed the spark plugs and you are at 100K, yes, time to change the plugs (and the air filter while you are at it). If you want to perform small maintenance items on your B5, for ~16.00 (USD) you cannot go wrong buying a Chilton or Haynes manual. While not as good as a Bentley manual, they are decent enough to get you through many DIY jobs.
The information forum on this site has many helpful DIY maintenance items. Here is the link to the Fuel Filter replacement: http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=69656&highlight=air
For 1.8T engine: The air filter is located beneath two plastic covers on the forward left side of the engine bay (as you stand in front of the car facing the engine bay). The first cover has a small scoop in the top. This cover pulls off, straight up. Gently wiggle the cover up. The second cover has four “spring clips”, push them back to release. I normally remove the intake breather hose. This is the hose that leads from the front grill area to the filter box (one with the spring clips). Remove the two Phillips retaining screws in the front of the hose. You should be able to remove the hose; it simply compresses onto the second piece by a compression joint. Now the filter cover should be able to lift up and off (If I remembered everything correctly). This sounds more complicated that it really is…if you are handy with a screw driver, you can do it no problem. The first time you do this replacement it MAY take ~30 minutes to learn how everything comes apart. After the first time, you will do it in about 5 minutes.
Spark plugs: do you have a V6 or 1.8T? For a 1.8T, the spark plugs are easier to change than the air filer.
The information forum on this site has many helpful DIY maintenance items. Here is the link to the Fuel Filter replacement: http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=69656&highlight=air
For 1.8T engine: The air filter is located beneath two plastic covers on the forward left side of the engine bay (as you stand in front of the car facing the engine bay). The first cover has a small scoop in the top. This cover pulls off, straight up. Gently wiggle the cover up. The second cover has four “spring clips”, push them back to release. I normally remove the intake breather hose. This is the hose that leads from the front grill area to the filter box (one with the spring clips). Remove the two Phillips retaining screws in the front of the hose. You should be able to remove the hose; it simply compresses onto the second piece by a compression joint. Now the filter cover should be able to lift up and off (If I remembered everything correctly). This sounds more complicated that it really is…if you are handy with a screw driver, you can do it no problem. The first time you do this replacement it MAY take ~30 minutes to learn how everything comes apart. After the first time, you will do it in about 5 minutes.
Spark plugs: do you have a V6 or 1.8T? For a 1.8T, the spark plugs are easier to change than the air filer.
while you have the air box oopen take a look at where the MAF is located. If the change of plugs, air filter, fuel filter etc does not help, get the MAF tested.
Its an easy self fix if you know how to open the air box. Some people also have success cleaning the maf with electronics cleaner.
Do a quick search or look in the info forum for a 'how to'.
Its an easy self fix if you know how to open the air box. Some people also have success cleaning the maf with electronics cleaner.
Do a quick search or look in the info forum for a 'how to'.
I thing that I have find my problem with a vag com the trouble code is as shown below. any body could help with that. I dont know to wich system it is related.
View / Vehicle Trouble Log / Record Problem 2
Overview
Time : 10/08/2004 9:09 PM
Vehicle : Passat
CarChip : J-8028-A
Trouble Code : P1128
Description : Unknown Powertrain DTC (Manufacturer Controlled; Fuel and Air Metering)
Comments :
Engine Status
Fuel Pressure (Gage) :
Intake Manifold Pressure (Absolute) :
Engine Coolant Temperature : 177.8 °F
Calculated Load Value : 23.1 %
Engine Speed : 3,120 RPM
Vehicle Speed : 73 MPH
Fuel Trim Status
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : 1.56 %
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) :
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : 22.66 %
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) :
Fuel System Status
Fuel System 1 Status :
Fuel System 2 Status : Closed loop; using oxygen sensor(s) as feedback for fuel control.
View / Vehicle Trouble Log / Record Problem 2
Overview
Time : 10/08/2004 9:09 PM
Vehicle : Passat
CarChip : J-8028-A
Trouble Code : P1128
Description : Unknown Powertrain DTC (Manufacturer Controlled; Fuel and Air Metering)
Comments :
Engine Status
Fuel Pressure (Gage) :
Intake Manifold Pressure (Absolute) :
Engine Coolant Temperature : 177.8 °F
Calculated Load Value : 23.1 %
Engine Speed : 3,120 RPM
Vehicle Speed : 73 MPH
Fuel Trim Status
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : 1.56 %
Short-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) :
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 1) : 22.66 %
Long-Term Fuel Trim (Bank 2) :
Fuel System Status
Fuel System 1 Status :
Fuel System 2 Status : Closed loop; using oxygen sensor(s) as feedback for fuel control.
For an accurate code response, please list your engine type and model: For example, 1.8T AEB.
If you have a 1.8T, the engine model code is located under the plastic engine cover (surrounding you oil cap). The cover is removed by twisting the three 90 degree turn fasteners; I think there is only three (I do not recall off the cuff).
If you have a 1.8T, the engine model code is located under the plastic engine cover (surrounding you oil cap). The cover is removed by twisting the three 90 degree turn fasteners; I think there is only three (I do not recall off the cuff).
Looks like a MAF problem, P1128 was the same code my car was throwing out when the MAF went out. Plus its using the o2 sensors for feedback for fuel control.
Assuming a 1.8T (AEB in particular), Bentley directs you to check the following in order:
1. 02 sensor before cat.
2. 02 sensor after cat
3. fuel pump
4. fuel pressure regulator
5. fuel injectors
6. MAF sensor
7. Clean air filter and filter screen
However, if you have an older B5, or high mileage, and have never had to replace the MAF…I agree with pancreas, MAF. MAF failures are common on the older B5’s. Try cleaning your MAF first!
1. 02 sensor before cat.
2. 02 sensor after cat
3. fuel pump
4. fuel pressure regulator
5. fuel injectors
6. MAF sensor
7. Clean air filter and filter screen
However, if you have an older B5, or high mileage, and have never had to replace the MAF…I agree with pancreas, MAF. MAF failures are common on the older B5’s. Try cleaning your MAF first!
My engine is a 1.8T, ATW, 2000 with 100,000 KM. The fuel consumption is OK. The auxiliairy air pump is also out the window was full of water and frozed during winter. I doubt but just in case, I mentionned it. Is it a problem not to change the secondary air pump?.
I am not experienced with the aux air system; I do not feel confident making any predictions/recommendations in this area. I have read several posts on CB5 concerning problems with the auxiliary air system. Try a site-search, then PM one of the members that had a problem with their system.
I do know that the code you posted equates to the troubleshooting list I provided (per the Bentley manual). Did you clean the MAF? $5.00 (USD) and 30 minutes of your time is cheap compared to taking it to the dealer at ~$90.00/hour.
I do know that the code you posted equates to the troubleshooting list I provided (per the Bentley manual). Did you clean the MAF? $5.00 (USD) and 30 minutes of your time is cheap compared to taking it to the dealer at ~$90.00/hour.
To clean the MAF, do you just spray the contact cleaner ( in fact I did bougth Head Cleaner, I have been said that it was better) on the senser; do you use Qtip, to clean the dirt?
I purchased a spray can of “Electronics Cleaner” at my local Napa Automotive parts store. I am not sure if you have the Napa chain in Canada. I followed the MAF cleaning write-up in the Information Forum. I did not touch the MAF senor wire with any implement. I soaked the sensor wire with the cleaner spray.
Some members warn against touching the sensor wire with any tool/implement.
In the Navy, I cleaned many electronic and electrical components with contact cleaner, head cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. Those components did not suffer any bad effects. I do not know the basis of the other member’s warnings. However, I followed their advice, “do not touch the sensor wire” and it served me well. I have many miles on my cleaned MAF with no errors.
Some members warn against touching the sensor wire with any tool/implement.
In the Navy, I cleaned many electronic and electrical components with contact cleaner, head cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. Those components did not suffer any bad effects. I do not know the basis of the other member’s warnings. However, I followed their advice, “do not touch the sensor wire” and it served me well. I have many miles on my cleaned MAF with no errors.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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