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It happens three times in past few days, once at drive-thru and twice at stop light. When it comes to complete stop, the engine stops running. AC and radio are still on. I have to put gear to neutral and restart it without problem. Any idea?

It's 1.8t 2001.5, 40K miles. I recently clean the air filter (K&N) and change the oil, not sure if they are related.
 

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i had a vacuum leak.. my engine didnt stop.. it wasnt getting enough power.. thats all....

but if your engins dies on ya when u stop.. keep drivin :)
sorry cant help ya out :(

-Mark-
 

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Check if it bogs or stalls when lights or windows are rolled up. You can try to figure if it is electrical based or vacuum based.
 

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I had a similar problem awhile back on my DBW '01 and it turned out to be some corrosion on the connector for the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. It usually happened when I'd go off throttle completely after fairly hard acceleration, like on a highway off ramp. The rpm's are supposed to drop and then "bounce" back to idle level. In my case there was no "bounce", just a drop and I'd stall. Cleaning and di-electric spray on connector contacts fixed it.

Sort of a longshot, but I wouldn't count on a dealer figuring it out.
 
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Eiki said:
It happens three times in past few days, once at drive-thru and twice at stop light. When it comes to complete stop, the engine stops running. AC and radio are still on. I have to put gear to neutral and restart it without problem. Any idea?

It's 1.8t 2001.5, 40K miles. I recently clean the air filter (K&N) and change the oil, not sure if they are related.
The K+N is possible,too much oil will reduce airflow and may foul the maf. Vacuum lines are possible.
 

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I had the same symptoms when my MAF meter went out, but it was severe, car would not run at idle at all, had to keep the RPMs up to keep it running. If it is your MAF it is probably caused by your K&N filters oil.

FYI- it has been proven in numerous tests that the K&N does no better than the standard OEM paper filter and actually lets more dirt into your intake, not to mention the oil. K&N's are a complete waste of money and cause more problems then they are worth, not to mention the labor intensive cleaning process. And since they contribute nothing to performance why on earth do people keep buying them? :???:
 

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FYI- it has been proven in numerous tests that the K&N does no better than the standard OEM paper filter and actually lets more dirt into your intake, not to mention the oil. K&N's are a complete waste of money and cause more problems then they are worth, not to mention the labor intensive cleaning process. And since they contribute nothing to performance why on earth do people keep buying them?
[cough] Bullshit[/cough]

If people follow the correct cleaning instructions then there should be no issues.
 

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If it was the MAF it would consistently run like crap and from Eiki's description it sounds more intermittent.
 

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[cough] Bullshit[/cough]

If people follow the correct cleaning instructions then there should be no issues.[/quote]

If people stuck to the equally performing if not superior paper filters, their would REALLY be no issues.

BTW I have had 2 independent mechanics tell me that the K&Ns are worthless, one of the mechanics also worked in racing. I have also had the experience of a K&N fouling up my MAF in my old Ford Exploder, luckily it did not ruin it and the MAF was able to be cleaned. The K&N was brand new and had the factory oil on it so I didn't over oil it.

K&N = never again for me thanks. Paper is cheap and reliable, performs just as well as K&N and filters out more dirt.
 

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I have never had problems with them myself.
I think the first one I ever used was on my Ford Cortina 1600E (UK car) in the early 80s.
I have been using them ever since.
I suppose I put one on my Passat out of habit but have had no issues, I'm on my 4th clean with this one.
But this subject has been beaten to death so we'll just let it go.
 

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I had a similar problem awhile back on my DBW '01 and it turned out to be some corrosion on the connector for the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. It usually happened when I'd go off throttle completely after fairly hard acceleration, like on a highway off ramp. The rpm's are supposed to drop and then "bounce" back to idle level. In my case there was no "bounce", just a drop and I'd stall. Cleaning and di-electric spray on connector contacts fixed it.

Sort of a longshot, but I wouldn't count on a dealer figuring it out.
I will be doing this this weekend. Mine is doing the same when I drive it even slightly aggressive it stalls as soon as I return to neutral. Manual Revs don't seem to fix it either. So my bet is TPS. If not I'm gonna fog the engine.
 
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