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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
You need to enter the cars original VIN and Immobiliser serial number, in the replacement ECU (whether New or Used),
before entering the the original SKC.

I suggest you read the Ross Tech instructions again, and watch their video in the link you posted.
Thanks Tom. I actually cut and pasted the Ross Tech instructions with screen shots from the video but I guess I missed that step.
 

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Something's just not adding up here. Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a "new" ECU not have a VIN attached to it? A few posts back I saw that you had 2 different VINs. Where did that 2nd VIN come from if it wasn't already in your "new" ECU ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Something's just not adding up here. Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a "new" ECU not have a VIN attached to it? A few posts back I saw that you had 2 different VINs. Where did that 2nd VIN come from if it wasn't already in your "new" ECU ?
As far as I know they don't but that doesn't preclude needing to enter it BEFORE doing the rest of the adaption??
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Did you get it to work ?
Not yet Tom. I've got projects due for a number of clients due so I haven't gotten out there. I promise I will and will likely reach out for help going through the immobilizer III service procedures PDF you sent me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Thanks Tom. I actually cut and pasted the Ross Tech instructions with screen shots from the video but I guess I missed that step.
OK Tom here's the confusing direction that is found in both the Ross Tech directions where it says 'All relevant coding and adaptation values have been transferred from the ORIGINAL (OLD) ECU to the REPLACEMENT (NEW) ECU'
I assume this line in the Immobilizer Service Procedures means the same thing: 'record the coding for the instrument Cluster and all the adaption numbers if possible.'
I can't find any other info for this step.
Do I need to record the info from all 200 some locations and transfer that over to the new ECU?
 

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The way that I understand it, when installing a new ECU, just enter the original VIN and original immobiliser number,
then enter the original SKC. Once you have done this, you should be able to start & run the engine.

You will also need to enter the code for auto or manual transmission, and the ABS.
A TBA will need to be run, but that should happen automatically if switch on the ignition without starting and wait about 1 minute.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
The way that I understand it, when installing a new ECU, just enter the original VIN and original immobiliser number,
then enter the original SKC. Once you have done this, you should be able to start & run the engine.

You will also need to enter the code for auto or manual transmission, and the ABS.
A TBA will need to be run, but that should happen automatically if switch on the ignition without starting and wait about 1 minute.
Hey Tom You are reading my mind. I was about to report that I was hung up right at that spot. All the documentation says IF the VIN and immobiliser numbers don't port over you need to enter them. But I can't find any mention of HOW/WHERE to enter them. I have the numbers. They don't port over and I can't find how to enter them. If you have any insights that would be appreciated.
 

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Hey @russferr .
Any progress on this ?

@AndreasPassat posted this long coding procedure in another thread, but it might help you do what you need doing.


I am busy with another vehicle this weekend, but if I get some downtime I will see if I can find a way to change the VIN with either VCDS or VAG Tacho.
I did change VINs with the XTool, but it didn't stay changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Hey @russferr .
Any progress on this ?

@AndreasPassat posted this long coding procedure in another thread, but it might help you do what you need doing.


I am busy with another vehicle this weekend, but if I get some downtime I will see if I can find a way to change the VIN with either VCDS or VAG Tacho.
I did change VINs with the XTool, but it didn't stay changed.
THANKS I have some other info that I will share later that may be pertinent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
THANKS I have some other info that I will share later that may be pertinent.
OK I'm finally able to get back to this. When I left off I had just discovered that the dealer left the jumper wire to the #3 injector that they used to diagnose the miss in place, they didn't reinstall the engine cover and two of the three little nuts that hold the cover in place were missing. They left the boot off on #2 injector. They also removed some of the valve cover nuts and didn't replace them. That's VERY concerning. Oh one more thing - there were two oatmeal cookies on the catalytic converter. I spent some time documenting this stuff and I'm disputing the $1500 that I paid these clowns so that they could refuse to fix my car. I'm so frosted now that if I can't handle it through the credit card company they're going to court.
The green line follows the jump wire they installed. It's dotted when it goes under the ECU and behind various parts.
102859

1. Wire snip at the ECU
102862

2. Wire Snip at the injector.
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3. Valve cover bolts.
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4. Injector boot. I know this is really niggling but I don't work that way. I have a 96 Jetta and you KNOW that stuff falls off almost daily. I know in a 25 year old car you find lots of stuff that was clipped secure but now flapping in the breeze because it doesn't matter that much. NOT in my car. I'm not the best mechanic in the world but If a little clip or a boot or whatever breaks I'll replace it. If I can't get the part or if I can only get a gold plated one from VAG I'll make something that works. NO breeze flapping. I don't accept crap like that especially when paying top dollar at the dealer.
102865

Please see my new post because I have some questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
When I left
If you are talking about starting a new thread, I suggest you should stay with this thread until this issue is resolved.
Thanks Tom. I wasn't going to start a new thread. I was just going to report right here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
OK here's the update.
When I left off I had not been able to get either the new import ECU or the used one [with code]. During the last attempt I noticed a few peculiarities including:
Engine cover plastic bolts/clips were missing.
The diagnostic jump wire which the dealer installed was still connected.
Boot on the # 2 injector was not secured
Valve cover bolts were missing.
Since I'm not sure of the signal path of that wire in the harness and I'm aware that changes in voltage can cause problems with the diagnostics and that this could be interfering with the ECU install I decided to pause to reevaluate, do some research, consult with you guys and order up some stuff including:
Some of those heat shrink wire butt solder/seal connectors.
Bolts/clips for the engine cover
An upgraded wire stripper because of the delicacy and the shortness of the wire that they left dangling
I only noticed the valve cover bolts as I was photographing the mess [for the court case against the dealer:mad:]
Once I resolve the ECU it's my intent to replace the valve cover gasket which are leaking a bit so I'll order those parts all at once.
Yesterday I reconnected the wire out of the ECU and into the harness and to the injector.
I haven't tried to install the ECU. I may get to it today after I finish installing a heater blower resistor and putting the glove box etc. back together on my Jetta. I did discover some other things which I'm hoping to get some guidance on:
1. I read in a few places that an ECU swap needs full battery power [12.5 volts]. I've had the battery on a float charger but I'm not sure the battery is up to the job.
2. If I continue to have no luck with the ECU I'm considering a plug and play ECU with the immobilizer disabled or whatever they do to allow it to fool the dash console to not immobilize. What I would then do is to send my original ECU out to be repaired.
Any insights are deeply appreciated.
 

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"The diagnostic jump wire which the dealer installed was still connected."
This was not for diagnostics, it was to replace the wire in the harness which they believed was faulty.

"Valve cover bolts were missing."
Those threaded holes are not for valve cover mounting bolts, they were probably never used on your model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
OK Progress came today. I decided that I would spend as much time as required today to resolve the ECU issue or I was going to get a plug and play one and sell the other two. Just a reminder, I'd purchased a new aftermarket ECU from China [remember they build Passats in China] as well as a used one which came with the passcode. Really unnecessary as I learned to pull the passcodes along the way. I decided that I seemed to have two problems. 1. the butchery of the wiring by the dealer and 2. A battery which works well enough but is not putting out the apparently required 12.5 volts at rest [this obviously can't be done with the car running. I'd already reattached the wiring and decided that if the voltage seemed to be the problem I would tend to that one way or another, a charger or a new battery. It never came to that. I noticed that the new ECU seemed to be behaving like it had a password. It would not port the codes over as I went through the process. I whipped out my trusty X tool and sure enough there was a passcode in there. Back to VCDS and BINGO! My $100 Chinese ECU works. Still throwing some codes [I'll get to it] but I was on a roll so I installed the used ECU and it went like butter.

THE CODES It's no longer spitting out codes like an assembly line but injector #3 still has issues with the following codes:
17647 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 3 (N32): Open Circuit P1239 - 004 - No Signal/Communication
The only other codes are related to misfires. I guess I should expect misfires in the cylinder in which the injector is not working. So I have some homework to do. If I pull the injector fuse out and it's blown you guys might have to take up a collection for my bail.
 

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Why did you replace the ECU ?

Check this link: 17647/P1239 - Ross-Tech Wiki

It is NOT a blown fuse.
Probably the wire that the dealer bypassed, and then you re-connected.
Maybe a faulty injector.
Maybe a fault in the wiring between the injector pin 1 and fuse #34 (there are splices in that wire).

With all wiring connected.
With ignition ON and negative meter lead connected to the valve cover, what is the voltage at pin 1, and at pin 2 of the injector.
With engine running and negative meter lead connected to the valve cover, what is the voltage at pin 1, and at pin 2 of the injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Why did you replace the ECU ?

Check this link: 17647/P1239 - Ross-Tech Wiki

It is NOT a blown fuse.
Probably the wire that the dealer bypassed, and then you re-connected.
Maybe a faulty injector.
Maybe a fault in the wiring between the injector pin 1 and fuse #34 (there are splices in that wire).

With all wiring connected.
With ignition ON and negative meter lead connected to the valve cover, what is the voltage at pin 1, and at pin 2 of the injector.
With engine running and negative meter lead connected to the valve cover, what is the voltage at pin 1, and at pin 2 of the injector.
Thanks Tom
I'm interested in your thoughts on this which I may not have made clear previously: The cylinder 3 misfire is exactly the same as it was with the dealers rewiring as it is now and was from the beginning. The misfire is the problem I was trying to solve at the beginning of this journey. It was intermittent at first but was getting more and more frequent when I brought it to the dealer. The big difference is it was throwing pages of codes before I replaced the ECU. Now it's pretty much limited to the injector. That is one clean set of fault codes!
A few other questions:
How big of a job is it to replace that wiring harness? I'm fortunate to be within a few hours of a few amazing self service junkyards. I would go and pull it so that I can learn on the junk.
I've never done any work on injectors. Do they need to be a matched set? What I mean by that is can I replace just one?

I will check those voltages but that will take a few days. THANKS AGAIN!
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