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Discussion Starter #1
i posted this in the electronics forum, but am not convinced I will get any responses. I have also searched but not found what I need (or think I need). Perhaps someone can direct me to an applicable post.

I have a '98 B5 sedan. I have been replacing the door speakers with junk yard speakers for several years now and have grown super tired of this process. I would like to get some speakers that will last more than a year or two but that will easily plug in so that my tweeters still work. Can someone direct me to an affordable and appropriate choice? I have a non-monsoon system with factory head unit (dont want to change out the colors - half the reason I am still driving this car).


Also, one of the door tweeters in the rear is bad, but it is NOT the speaker. I plugged two others into the line and none have worked. is the plug at the large speaker bad? How do I remedy this?
 

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As best as I know, the fundamental difference here is that Monsoon bi-amps the doors (each speaker is fed individually); non-Monsoon parallel wires the tweeters to the woofers.
I'll suggest what I did on my (Monsoon-equipped) wagon: Replace the speaker sets.
Alpine SPS-610C (component set) makes it easy: Woofers bolt in (with appropriate mounting brackets.) If you're handy with a Dremel, it isn't hard to mill the tweeter mounts out to fit the Alpine tweeters. And, the Alpine tweeters can be easily stripped of their mounting parts, and the bare speaker glued into the VW mount (urethane works great here.)

I'd suggest picking up a spare tweeter (junkyard, eBay) to practice on first - but, it's easy work.
 

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Probably the biggest reason you're having to replace speakers is the glue or cement that was used to hold the magnet in place has become hard and brittle. Closing, slamming of the doors, and road abuse takes it's toll on the speaker. I myself have gone through a half dozen speakers between my '98 GLS and my wife's '03 GLX on the front doors.

The wires that feed through the body on A pillar and B pillar are notorious for breaking at the disconnect inside the rubber bellows that attaches to the door(s). Pull back the rubber bellows (CAREFULLY, so you can re-attach it with the plastic tabs) and you'll see the wires for the speaker.
Usually I cut back about 4 inches of the speaker wires and solder in new much more pliable speaker cable.

If you don't like doing all of that work, used door speaker harnesses can be had for around $30ish per set. (1 set per door)
When I go that route I get them here:

https://carparts4sale.com/lh-front-door-wiring-harness-monsoon-01-05-vw-passat-b55-3b0-971-120-dm-cp046797

As an example.


If you get a replacement speaker, you can also glue the speaker magnet to the speaker frame / basket with excess epoxy before the magnet breaks loose.

This is a common repair done to certain high end audio speakers. In the high end arena, driving speakers with massive amplifiers at high SPL / decibel levels tend to rattle the speakers themselves and the glue from the factory fails.
How do I know that... :whistle:
 
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Discussion Starter #4
thanks - but I do not think broken wires due to the door swinging are the issue. The main speaker works, just the tweeter that does not. I read that the plug contains the element that completes the circuit to power the tweeters so I was wondering how to address this? just cut plug from donor car and graft in place?
 

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But, why? The tweeter is far more likely to be dead, than a simple (non-moving) bridge (which is just two simple strips of metal.) ;)
 
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