Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2001.5 AWM 1.8 Wagon ......so doing a bunch of work ,overall maintenance, runs like a champ. Have had in garage for last couple months on and off but every time I go to to start after a week or so, battery is weak so charge it and off I go. So today checked drain on battery, when off ( doors shut for 1/2 hour) draining at .3 amps, two questions ,Is that about right (amperage draw at rest)? and going to open door flip latch shut (so car thinks door is shut) and start pulling fuses.....is that how I should check? thanks in advance, Chief
 

·
in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
There has been many times that my 2001.5 AWM sat for a couple of months and when I started it the battery did not complain at all. I'm not so sure about the average draw at rest theory. Or at least it should be very low amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Question... Did you lock the doors? If so, .3 amp draw is too much. With the doors locked, you should be seeing anywhere between 25mA to 45mA (.025 amp to .045amp).

Pulling fuses is what is going to happen after that.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks DV!, O.K. ,quick update , although my B6 is not the same wiring as the B5s ,for a relative comparison did a "amp" draw test on it , in a static condition (car sitting for five minutes) it draws .09 amps (1/3 of my B5s current reading) , and that car ( 08 B6) has previously sat for 6 weeks and started right up with no adverse effects. With that being said, I will maybe right or wrong,will use that as a guide or benchmark to evaluate. So today my "gov't" project will be to extend my Flukes test leads to be able to reach to fuse panel from battery to save steps (read meter). As a sidebar to this since I know opening the door "triggers" certain functions , am I correct in assuming if I flick door locking latch with a screwdriver that car will be fooled to thinking door is shut ? (i.e. puddle light will be off) so I can get access to fuses.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,296 Posts
Thanks DV!, O.K. ,quick update , although my B6 is not the same wiring as the B5s ,for a relative comparison did a "amp" draw test on it , in a static condition (car sitting for five minutes) it draws .09 amps (1/3 of my B5s current reading) , and that car ( 08 B6) has previously sat for 6 weeks and started right up with no adverse effects. With that being said, I will maybe right or wrong,will use that as a guide or benchmark to evaluate. So today my "gov't" project will be to extend my Flukes test leads to be able to reach to fuse panel from battery to save steps (read meter). As a sidebar to this since I know opening the door "triggers" certain functions , am I correct in assuming if I flick door locking latch with a screwdriver that car will be fooled to thinking door is shut ? (i.e. puddle light will be off) so I can get access to fuses.
One way to find out is if you flick the latch closed and arm via the remote lock button, will it arm, turn off interior lights, and flash the little LED in the top of the door panel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
673 Posts
If that meter was setup correctly, and you didn't bodge the test.... 0.3A (300mA) is, well, about 10 times what the car should use at rest (~30mA, give or take a smidge.)

Don't do the 'pull fuses and check" method, as it can create another slew off issues (up to and including creating 'temporary phantom draws', as control units are woken up at random.)

Confirm the draw. Measure voltage drop on each fuse to pinpoint it. More accurate, less invasive, and significantly faster.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top