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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The title suggests a similar problem to what has been posted before by others. But now it is my turn asking for advice. It is a 2002 wagon with 150K miles. The left rear door has been sketchy for about a year but all of a sudden all doors will not open remotely (the rear hatch door works remotely). Windows work remotely, sun roof OK remotely. I just did a Vag-Com scan and this is the result re the doors:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 0P Komfortgerát HLO 003
Coding: 00258
Shop #: WSC 05311
VCID: 37732002158DEE999F5-4B32

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C1959801
Component: 0P Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0003

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C1959802
Component: 0P Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0002

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1C0959811
Component: 0P Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0002

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1C0959812
Component: 0P Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0002

4 Faults Found:
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5)
35-00 - -
00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)
27-00 - Implausible Signal

Also, if I do Select Control Module, Central Locks, I get a Failure to Communicate message.

I can't imagine the mirror errors are relevant but any suggestions about the others?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I just did a search re the error codes. Looks like the heating elements for the mirrors are shot by having left the mirror switch in the mid position. Oh, well!

The Ross-Tech site does have possible causes, etc for the door codes. But any practical experiences from PW people are very much appreciated.
 

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It is a 2002 wagon with 150K miles. The left rear door has been sketchy for about a year but all of a sudden all doors will not open remotely (the rear hatch door works remotely). Windows work remotely, sun roof OK remotely. I just did a Vag-Com scan and this is the result re the doors:

4 Faults Found:
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4) 35-00 - -
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5) 35-00 - -
Most likely heating elements, check with meter.

00930 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Left (F222) 27-00 - Implausible Signal
00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223) 27-00 - Implausible Signal
These faults should only affect the rear doors.

Also, if I do Select Control Module, Central Locks, I get a Failure to Communicate message.
That is because you don't have such a module. (See Address 46: Central Conv. (CCM)
Can you lock any/all doors with the remote ?
 

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Check the battery in the remote.


You probably have the better splices, but you can still have problems from water ingress.
It looks like you have a problem with the floor harnesses and grounds or the CCM, you can get this fault without water ingress.
Locate and fix source of water ingress, if any.
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices
need to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at these links, before you start.

NOTE: The car in this DIY is UK RHD. (the CCM is always on LHS)
VW Passat CCM harness repair | HeadFUZZ

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/230249-water-ingress-solutions.html


Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)
taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair

Also check the wiring and connectors in the boots between the doors and pillars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm finally getting back to this. Going by the instructions by HeadFUZZ, I've got to the point of pulling the CCM but am finding it to be a bitch of a job. I am intending to pull out the CCM and take off the two connectors and squirt DeoxIT on the pins and see if that works before opening the box. By the way, I have found no signs of apparent corrosion on the cabling so far. But I am finding it to be very difficult to pull out the box. Then by some sort of miracle the remote is operating the doors again. Reaching in, I grabbed the rubber bellow boot end of the front harness and rocked it back and forth. There is some wiggling possible of the connector. Perhaps there has been some minor corrosion inside the connector and I worked it loose. I'm going to do a check with my Vag-Com later and see what I get.

Check the battery in the remote.


You probably have the better splices, but you can still have problems from water ingress.
It looks like you have a problem with the floor harnesses and grounds or the CCM, you can get this fault without water ingress.
Locate and fix source of water ingress, if any.
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices
need to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at these links, before you start.

NOTE: The car in this DIY is UK RHD. (the CCM is always on LHS)
VW Passat CCM harness repair | HeadFUZZ

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/230249-water-ingress-solutions.html


Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)
taligentx.com: Passat - Door Lock Mechanism Repair

Also check the wiring and connectors in the boots between the doors and pillars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Back again. The door locks are working (most of the time). I did a Vag-Com check and see there is a different code for not working and for working:

not working - 27-00 - Implausible Signal
working - 27-00 - Implausible Signal, intermittent

This apparently was a babied car during the first 100K of its life in North Carolina. Now it is being babied in California and we have had a drought for the last four years since I got it. Believe me, no water. The CCM area under the carpet looks factory-new. No staining, no grime, etc. So, I believe the CCM itself to be OK. I carefully examined the harness wiring and it looks fresh. I do have a problem about pulling the CCM. While it can be wriggled around I cannot get it pulled out. There are some clips (or something) restraining it from being pulled out. I do not see any splices in the harness cabling but I am suspicious of those colored connector blocks that are tucked behind the kick panel (that I removed). Might one (or more) be for the door connections (in case a door is being replaced)? Does anyone know of the color coding (I better see if there is any info in my Bentley).
 

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Back again. The door locks are working (most of the time). I did a Vag-Com check and see there is a different code for not working and for working:

not working - 27-00 - Implausible Signal
working - 27-00 - Implausible Signal, intermittent
I don't understand what you are trying to say. There are no codes for proper operation, if there is a DTC there is a fault.


Believe me, no water. The CCM area under the carpet looks factory-new. No staining, no grime, etc. So, I believe the CCM itself to be OK. I carefully examined the harness wiring and it looks fresh. I do have a problem about pulling the CCM. While it can be wriggled around I cannot get it pulled out. There are some clips (or something) restraining it from being pulled out. I do not see any splices in the harness cabling but I am suspicious of those colored connector blocks that are tucked behind the kick panel (that I removed). Might one (or more) be for the door connections (in case a door is being replaced)? Does anyone know of the color coding (I better see if there is any info in my Bentley).
Read post #5 again. (more carefully)
you can get this fault without water ingress.
There are splices in the harness, read the instructions in the link carefully and see the pics.
Cracked solder joints are not related to water ingress.
The CCM is quite easy to get out, I suggest you try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks, Tom. You've been great. Last question before bedtime.

I pored through my Bentley and I could not find anything specific about color coding of the "A" pillar door connectors (yes, I did find some wire color coding but that is pretty hopeless (and I'm an EE)). Do you have any suggestions re which connectors? Or do they go into that monster one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Tomvw. I am still sticking to my comments about waiting a week before I button it up, but in the meantime, the door locking works normally.

My comments today are re the mirror error:
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4) 35-00 - -
00944 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Passenger Side (Z5) 35-00 - -
and you suggested: "most likely heating elements, check with meter"

I did a meter check and found 13.8 ohms on one, 14.3 ohms on the other (these are the ECS Tuning wide angle mirrors, I found a CN code on the back, probably Chinese). Any idea what position the knob should be to get a true reading? I am now thinking L or R so that the motor circuit is hooked up. When I did my original scan it was in the mid position. I can probably answer this when I do my next scan.
 

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Remove the mirrors, disconnect one wire and measure resistance across the heater connections.
With wires connected measure voltage across the heater connections. With ignition on and demist on,
try different switch positions (one should be marked demist, between L & R) you should get 12V.

It doesn't matter where the switch is set during a scan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Tom, thanks for all your help. I know a lot more about my car than I did weeks ago.

I did a last scan and I still have the "implausible signal - intermittent" return, but every thing works. So, I'm going to leave it at the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" state. If it comes back, I will know where to attack the problem (probably at the A pillar connectors).

Thanks again and regards.
 
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