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Discussion Starter #1
There are three "membranes" that can be treated with damping sheets (such as Dynamat):

1) The outer sheetmetal door skin
2) The inner sheetmetal plate (removable in B5's)
3) The inside plastic door panel (obviously removable)

The goal is to tighen up the midbass and eliminate "blurring" of the sound in the lower midrange. So, is it necessary to dampen all three of these membranes?

If so, is it a bitch to remove the inner sheetmetal plate? (#2 above) Someone said I can unscrew it and have a friend hold it while I access the inside of the outer sheetmetal door skin. They said something about "cables" inside that have some play in them. Does anyone know about this, and if its doable?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated !!

Thank you.
 

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once you figure out how to do it, it will only take you about 15 minutes with an air ratchet. The thing you have to do though is take the glass out of the tracks. To do this I take the door panel off, and then open up the rubber flaps that are like 2" in diameter, located on the sheetmetal plate. You then roll the window down until there are bolt heads centered in these flaps, the window only needs to come down about 4 inches. Then you loosen the bolts until the glass will lift up freely, and then duct tape it to the top of the door so that it is held in place... Then you have to take out all of the bolts that hold the smeetmetal panel to the actual door, and free up the wires that are loomed to the metal. The lock mechanism is held in by some plastic type rivot things, and you need to pop those out. It is kinda a trick to do, but it really isnt that hard, and even the first time I did it (which took me about 3 hours to figure out) I still didnt mess anything up.

Oh yeah, and to asnwer your question about is it necessary...I'd say absolutely, I've got 4 layers of sound deadening on my doors, and when you knock on them they are solid as a rock, and when you're driving down the road at 70+mph with the windows up and sunroof shut it sounds like you're in a recording studio....pretty amazing. You'll be amazed at how much lower the noise floor will be while you're driving your car and how much more music you'll get out of your speakers because their energy is not being converted into vibrating your doors anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!!

I probably won't attempt this until the weather warms up. I'll report back at that time...

-Brian
 

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CaptainMorgan,
You said you used 4 layers of sound deadening material. How were they applied...one or two to the inside of the door sheet metal, one layer to the outside (or inside?) of the inner steel plate, and one to the inside of the door pannel? What type of deadining material did you use? Also, what other areas did you apply this material to for the results described? Thanks, Ray
 

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I put 4 layers on the outer door skin of the car, then i put 2 on the backside of the inner door plate, then i put modeling clay all over the back of my door panels along with some more sound deadening material. I have subs in my door panels, so they have a tendency to vibrate if they arent properly dampened.

I use b-quiet extreme and it is available from www.b-quiet.com

I love the sutff and have put it in every car i've deadened in the past 3 years. It has a foil top on it, tar similar to dynamat extreme, and then a very very very sticky back on it. It will stick to most anything, including itself. he only thing i'd say is dont apply it to the underside of your roof if you have a sunroof. In one car the heat (Houston, TX) made the adhesive break loose of the roof and it jammed the sunroof. Other than that it is great, and all of the other sound deadening in that car, remained to stick, just not the upside down pieces on the roof where it gets amazingly hot.

Also, you asked where else I applied it, I put it everywhere.....Front and rear doors, entire floor, all the way up the firewall, under all of the seats, all the way throughout the trunk, including the trunk lid. I went nuts with it and used 300sq ft. But man, both my parents drive huge Lexus LS400's and my car is quieter than theirs going down the road.
 

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Capt'Morgan,
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that, and sharing your experiences. I saw the write up on your car and it sure is one fine piece of work. Congradulations on your accomplishments.

Couple more questions if you dont mind...if you were going to build a system for a highway cruiser (read - not a show car), how much of and where would you use the sound deadening material? Also, I have 3 amps to install. Where would you mount them? They are PG TIs (600 for the fronts and 400 for the rear). I was thinking of mounting them upside down under the rear deck shelf. But I have heard that you shouldn't mount amps upside down as it affects the airflow. These amps do have individual fans on them. The third amp is a JBL for the sub. The other place that I have seen is a custom mounting box that goes up against the folding seat back. What would you recommend?

Thanks for your help. Best Wishes, Ray
 

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I think that for a highway cruiser, the more you put in your car, the better you'll be. The doors are very important, and I would certainly put a few layers in there, especially on the outer door skin. The floor is also where a lot of noise comes in, so you should do it on your floorboard, especially in the front where you are trying to combat the road noise with music. Other than that, I'd use it wherever you feel like putting it. If you want to make the 200 or 300 dollar investment in 200sq ft of it, then go ahead and do that, and put 2-3 layers everywhere you feel like taking apart. They say on their site that 2 layers is 3 times as effective as 1 layer, and I absolutely agree. So, the doors are a top priority, followed by the floor, at least in the front, and then the rest of the floor and the trunk. The headliner is tricky to take down if you're not experienced with that sort of thing, and I honestly couldnt tell a difference when I added sound deadening to the roof.

As far as mounting amps goes, some say it can be a bad idea to mount them upside down. I have mounted them that way in a few cars, and have never had any problems. I dont think it could affect airflow nessecarily b/c air floats, lol, gravity isnt holding it inside of your amp. I have heard that the hot air collecting at the top of the trunk is the problem, but again, I have never experienced this problem so I dont think of this as a bad place to mount. However, the amps you mentioned arent exactly small, so I dont think this is much of an option for you anyway, unless you plan to stack them together. I would either build an amp rack on the backside of your speaker enclosure to mount the amps, or make a false floor in your trunk. The false floor would be my first choice because of the room you have to work with, and then your amps arent sandwiched between the back of a box and the rear seat which will impede air flow. The other good thing about a false floor is that it only takes up about 3-4" of trunk height, and you can put a floor mat over the amps if you need to put something on top of them. Just dont keep it there all of the time because you will block air from getting to the fans.

Hope This Helps,

Morgan
 

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Morgan,
It certainly does help. I have installed systems on several cars but have not yet entered into the world of custom speaker enclosures, racks and sound deadening. I plan on taking your advice on the sound deadening and probably on the amp mounting location. My consideration for the trunk is to be able to put my bicycle in there with the rear seat back down. If I can do that with the false floor method, I will use that. Do you know of any website or publication that would provide guidance with the design and materials for an amp rack and/or false floor?

Thanks again, Ray
 
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