I plan on seeing a body shop for an estimate. Just wondering if anyone has an ideas as to what kind of body work I should expect. I was backing out of a parking lot and scraped the corner of a brick building. Can they knock the dents out? Replace the skin, or do I need a whole new door? Obviously it needs to be repainted. I'm more concerned as to my options in repairing the dents.
Door damage - scraped a building. How much to fix?
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Whole door replacement unfortunately. Only newer VWs are being produced with the outer door skin being separate. I can't imagine a body shop fixing those kind of dents. If they were more uniform it might be easier, but those are abrupt and jagged. You're better off sourcing a door already that color, trust me, you can find a junker Passat with a spare door.
Joined
·
13,878 Posts
^ agree, old door and a respray will be your best bet. A new door from VW is damn expensive, and there is a long waiting period. (this is assuming you are trying to avoid going through the insurance company)
Sure enough.... Estimate with a new psngr door and refinishing the driver door (because it got minorly scratched as well) is $1800!! When they sourced a used door and tool out refinishing the driver door it went down to $1400, plus it could be $170 less if the used door comes with the door molding (ie - 'rub strips')
Joined
·
295 Posts
If you are going to do the driver's door touch up too, then just get any color door that's in the best shape possible. Do the prep work on both doors and then just blend in the new paint all the way into the driver's door. 150-200 for a new door. 20 for 2 cans of high build primer. 50 for a pint spray able basecoat which will do 3 coats on a door that size. 20 or less for the clear coat(also 3 coats). Another 25-30 on misc stuff.
If you don't have a spray gun they are very cheap. I would use a 1 to 3 tip.
Prep is the hard part but more time consuming than difficult. 1200 sounds way to high for a door repaint and minor body work and I owned 3 paint and body shops in Tx back in the day.
If you don't have a spray gun they are very cheap. I would use a 1 to 3 tip.
Prep is the hard part but more time consuming than difficult. 1200 sounds way to high for a door repaint and minor body work and I owned 3 paint and body shops in Tx back in the day.
Joined
·
295 Posts
LOL I understand. Might also try a high school or tech school auto body class. No labor charges.
Used to be a guy off of Seminary Drive in Ft Worth (Dave I think) that did really good work and was very reasonable.
Looking at the Bently repair manual, it shows a grub screw and a bolt that have to be removed, as well as disconnect the wiring. Pretty easy with two people. Has anyone replaced a door before? Looks straight forward, just not sure if there is a lot of work in aligning the new door when on.
Also, there appears to be a VIN split. Not a big deal, just unsure why.
Also, there appears to be a VIN split. Not a big deal, just unsure why.
Thanks, a little out of the way but will keep him in mind.
If I read the ETKA diagram correctly, the VIN split appears to be for a part listed as "conduit" and "door cavity seal" but the door itself is the same. Can anyone confirm this?
![Text Technical drawing Drawing Line Line art]()
Apparently they have really restricted photo sizes here
The text in the box reads:
Left Rear
also use: >>>3B-4-120000
3B4 971 341
N 903 565 02
Apparently they have really restricted photo sizes here
The text in the box reads:Left Rear
also use: >>>3B-4-120000
3B4 971 341
N 903 565 02
we may have a winner, bare minimum the body shop bill will drop.
Also, for anyone who has done this sort of thing, a few questions:
1) Is the VIN split something that will affect fitment of the door? As best as I can tell it has to do with a wiring harness conduit in the door itself.
2) The Bently repair manual says to remove the one time use bolts where the lower hinge mounts to the B-Pillar. It looks like it would be easier to remove the two bolts that connect the hinge to the door. I don't need two sets of hinges anyway.
3) Assuming everything lines up, is getting the door to sit flush and close properly a difficult task, provided I have someone helping? The guy at the body shop seemed surprised I was willing to hang the door myself.
4) Body shop quoted close to $400 to respray a bare shell that I bring to them, including the exterior trim piece. If I get this black door, I would think they could easily just respray the exterior for closer to $300.
1) Is the VIN split something that will affect fitment of the door? As best as I can tell it has to do with a wiring harness conduit in the door itself.
2) The Bently repair manual says to remove the one time use bolts where the lower hinge mounts to the B-Pillar. It looks like it would be easier to remove the two bolts that connect the hinge to the door. I don't need two sets of hinges anyway.
3) Assuming everything lines up, is getting the door to sit flush and close properly a difficult task, provided I have someone helping? The guy at the body shop seemed surprised I was willing to hang the door myself.
4) Body shop quoted close to $400 to respray a bare shell that I bring to them, including the exterior trim piece. If I get this black door, I would think they could easily just respray the exterior for closer to $300.
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
Using an online dealer ETKA it looks like the same door is used for all years just a difference between the sedan and wagon rear doors.
They show a lot more fitment details. than the old PDF file. VW Parts - Shop Volkswagen Parts Online direct from Jim Ellis VW
Are you reading Bentley section T 58-3 Rear Door Removal and Install? Mine is very different from what you are saying.
They show a lot more fitment details. than the old PDF file. VW Parts - Shop Volkswagen Parts Online direct from Jim Ellis VW
Are you reading Bentley section T 58-3 Rear Door Removal and Install? Mine is very different from what you are saying.
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
