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i used brake caliper paint....it can handle the high temps...that is the main thing, the temp of the engine.....they also have engine paint.....
just sand and paint man!
 

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I am planning on doing this soon, i am planning on useing Dupli-Color Engine Enamel. Its only around $5/per can so its the same cost as any other paint and is specifically made for engine bays. Cant go wrong with that. :thumbup:
 

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I painted mine with high temperature engine paint, and I'm getting peeling. Are you guys experiencing this? If not, how do I remove the paint to use your method?

Where do you purchase Plasti-cote?
 

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Rwaller71:

Where are you getting the peeling if the intake snorkel is what is peeling then the is not too much you can do. But if everything is peeling then you did not prep the surface correctly

Enjoy the View:

If you are going to use spray cans to do the job (It must be Automotive paint or Engine/Caliper paint) Both of these paint have to be stable in many different condition ( Think about this have you ever touched a black have sitting in the sun all day?

If you use Automotive touch up paint in the can a good coat of primer that has been wet sanded an cleaned properly will help the paint stick better. Make sure when you use the clear coat the you don't go too heavy the first coat should be very light then the next two coats should cover the the peice.

If you use a gloss Engine/Caliper paint then just let the paint cure properly as per the instructions on the can don't bother with the clear coat it may actually take away from the shine.
 

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See, I was told there is no good clear coat paint for "hot" areas. I think I'm going to have to remove my paint, and start over. I cleaned and all, but I think I need to use some other paint and a clear coat.

Is Plasticote the best to use? Where do you purchase it? How do I remove the old paint?
 

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Since all these covers are plastic, do we need to add any flex agent in the paint?

Steve (Scuba2001) ordered paint with flex agent in spray cans from paintscratch.com that sounds like a great idea. But the paint + primer + clear coat would amount to $50 for 3 - 12 Oz cans. :eek:

<threadjack> Jesstzn, do you hang that tennis ball from the ceiling to avoid bumping into your garage wall? </threadjack>
 

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YetAnother20V said:
Since all these covers are plastic, do we need to add any flex agent in the paint?

<threadjack> Jesstzn, do you hang that tennis ball from the ceiling to avoid bumping into your garage wall? </threadjack>
No flex agent needed as the parts aren't subject to bending like a bumper is..

Tennis ball is used as a positioner so I have even distance front and rear from garage ends so I have room to move around the car when I am detailing it. It also positions the car so when I open the door it doesn't hit a support beam.

Mine has been cleared and on the engine for a few monts and no issues .. it was 112F out the other day and I was going over a mountain pass .. if heat was going to be an issue with the clear .. it would have done something that day.
 

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OK, stupid question. All the guys who did, do you suggest painting the undersides of the engine bay covers too? Or just the top side? I ask because, at the edges, the paint will have more chance to flake if we do it on one side only.
 

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YetAnother20V said:
OK, stupid question. All the guys who did, do you suggest painting the undersides of the engine bay covers too? Or just the top side? I ask because, at the edges, the paint will have more chance to flake if we do it on one side only.
I didn't paint the undersides .. If the plastic is sanded and prepped properly the paint won't flake .. Its not like the covers are a high abuse area.
 

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It is not necessary to paint the underside nor is it reccomended that you do this.


The durability of the paint should not be an issue. It is not like you remove or handle the plastic that often.

To ensure that you get a good prep done wash the plastic thorougly with a dish detergent (wash the whole thing not just the surface to be painted.

If you wish the next step could be some wet sanding with some 400 grit paper
then move up to some 600 grit paper. Then thoroughly wash and dry the plastic again.

Optional step is a light coat of grey or black primer (the regualar stuff not the "self etching stuff don't not seem to adhere to plastic that well). Then followed with a medium coat of primer.

If you choose to start with primer. Then wet sand the primer with 600 grit paper
then thoroughly wash and dry the plastic again

Now you should be ready to paint. Pick out a nice place that is warm and not too dusty (preferably someplace with direct sunlight.


It is a good idea if you are using a spray can to have the can sit in the sun to warm the paint( an alternative to have the paint sit in the sun is to place the can in a pan or bucket of warm water.


Like I mentioned before primer is a good additon to the surface but stay away from self etching primer.

Self etching primer is basically designed for metal. I have used it be before and usually it will allow the paint to chip off cleanly because it does not bond to plastic well.

This is just my observation with self etching primer maybe I have not learned the trick yet so for now I am sticking to what I know.
 

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EnjoyTheView said:
how do manage a smooth paint job when using a spray can. Any time i have used spray paint, i get veins of paint running down the surface, is there a way to smooth it out?
If you are getting runs then more that likely you are holding the can to close to the piece and not moving evenly.


When you are painting anything, wheter with a gun or a spray can you must sweep over the part with steady sweeping motion.

And rember that it won't get done in one pass, alway start off with light coats and build up to the finish coat.

Prepping for paint and using spray cans is like a second nature for me since I used to build model car. My mentor had very high standards for model building and we would also shoot Automotive paint with an airbrush. It has been about three years since I built my last model I guess my car have become my hobby.

But all the skills I have acquired from building models have helped me alot in working on my own cars.
 
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