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The Rubberband Man
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3,552 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good Evening,


First, let it be known I take NO responsibility for anyone's carelessness but my own. I did not cause your garage to blow-up, OKAY?? :)

This is not a substitute for a professionally changed fuel filter job- but, rather, my attempt to amuse myself and you who find my make-shift tools and gas catcher can beyond reproach. Use (with a REAL flame suit) at your own risk.

USE PLENTY OF VENTILATION!!!

Locating the W8's fuel filter is easy; its passenger side in front of the wheel, next to the gas tank. p/# 441 201 511 C, Stealership was the cheapest ($18).








As you can see in the pictures it is VERY easy to access. A quick jaunt up the Rhino Ramps, or just using a floor jack, will provide you with enough clearance to work.

Start by selecting your tools: You will need 17mm, 19mm, and 20mm wrenches, or if you are MISSING your 20mm use a Crescent instead.





The ellen wrench was used in place of my MISSING Torx wrenches.....don't get me started.

Next get a can of some sort and some paper towels or rags. This is my premium blend setup (decaf??):




<--------------------- FLOW -------------------------------

Remove the torx bolt that fastens the plastic strap^^^ I believe it is a T-40. Ellen wrench worked fine, too (1/4").
Be careful when loosening the bolts! Do it slow. A few ounces of 91Oct will spray out. Use the can as your catcher and the rag as your...ragger?

The old filter is fairly crusty and, well, just plain old. Use the Crescent against the filter and 17mm then the 19mm wrench to free up the b****.

Each bolt holds two sealing washers on either end. Keep track these if you plan on reusing them. If not, chuck 'em and get new pieces ($1.97) from Stealer. p/#'s ---crap I cant find the receipt! Dealer will know.



Slip the new filter in with the washers in place and tighten everything back down the way you found it.


(pretty little maid!)

Voila!


Now, clean up the remaining gasoline from the floor, the undercarriage, and your face. As you start your engine you will notice a few second delay as the pump is delivering the fuel through a somewhat empty line.

Lastly, you will want to check for any leaks.



As you can tell from the write-up above, even a buffoon can change a fuel filter on a W8. All said and done it took 15 minutes to do the swap. Very easy to do.






Okay, so now the fun part!
I hate leaving old oil/gas rags lying around the shop waiting for them to dry out. It was a cold day in the burbs, low thirties and damp. What a nice day for a "controlled burn."



(The rag had only a small amount of gas in it. The caught fuel was filtered through a coffee filter and drained into my lawn mower! Save gas- fart in a jar.)

Everything was holding steady....



Whoa, TAKE IT EASY!!!!



Maybe the smoke will keep the 'coons from coming back....




I hope this write-up was helpful.....or at least entertaining.....or whatever.

Be safe, and enjoy all 4 liters of fun!




uu8
 

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In reverse, but chained to a tree.
Joined
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13,906 Posts
i have one last step to add to your walkthrough.

it is ideal to null the fuel line pressure.

by this, i mean open your fuse box, and locate the fuel pump fuse from what the manual says.
after you locate the fuse, pull it out and set it somewhere to not lose it.
now, with the fuse still removed, put the key in the ignition and hold for 2-3 seconds as the starter tries to crank the engine over. the engine will not start as there is no pressure, but the car will command the injectors to open and spurt as they normally do for starting operation, this will relieve all fuel line pressure into the engine just as the car was meant to run, and it just won't get any more fuel. this will remove ALL pressure from the fuel line thus stopping the line from spraying you upon removal.

car obviousily won't start, and do NOT hold and crank the engine over for more than 6 seconds with the fuel disabled! any longer than 7 seconds and you can burn your starter. (i think it was 15 seconds, but do no longer than 7 to air on the safe side.)

to undo what was done, just place the fuse back in it's spot, and start the car back up as normal. if you do it right like i said, you won't even get a CEL.

EDIT: btw, pm rusty to get this moved over. i don't think this is in the info base yet.
 

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The Rubberband Man
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3,552 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Neutralizing the fuel line is a good idea. Thanks for the addition.



uu8
 

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In reverse, but chained to a tree.
Joined
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13,906 Posts
glad to be of help!

i've tried diagnosis of a few fuel problems of my own and found this in my haynes book. i was trying to do an FP check because i'm getting a slight delayed crank overnight due to pressure drop. removed the pipe fromthe fuel rail, to try and attach a pressure gage....
unfortunately my gages suck, and didn't have the right adaptors. after i gave up i put the pipe back on, and cranked the nut down tight only to find a small leak. cranked it down some more and the rail pipe bent slightly....
nearly broke my fuel rail to get the seal back tight :banghead:

if there's any seals/gaskets with this i recommend new ones if not already included.

btw, nice disposal of leftovers :thumbup:
great way to always end a job completed after checking for leaks, and trying to stay warm.
 

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Registered
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7,568 Posts
I like how the W8 has the banjo connectors on the fuel filter instead of those POS one-use clamps on the 1.8T. Back in '87, even the Golf GL had banjo clamps.
 

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In reverse, but chained to a tree.
Joined
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13,906 Posts
x2 on the banjo's. very useful invention, if not best fluid line related connection there is.

now that we've got the w8 out of the way, is there one for the fwd v6? :lol:
 

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The Rubberband Man
Joined
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3,552 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
x2 on the banjo's. very useful invention, if not best fluid line related connection there is.

now that we've got the w8 out of the way, is there one for the fwd v6? :lol:
I'll have to do this on my 2000 GLX when my brain cells recover from the "incidental" huffin' the other day.....;)

uu8
 

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PassatWorld Staff
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12,267 Posts
I like how the W8 has the banjo connectors on the fuel filter instead of those POS one-use clamps on the 1.8T. Back in '87, even the Golf GL had banjo clamps.
Back in '79, even the Scirocco had banjo fittings. :) :thumbup:

Moved to Info Forum 02/06/08.
 

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PassatWorld Staff
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12,267 Posts
Update 02/07/08 per PZ:

This writeup is also good for 4Mo.
Not sure about part #'s, but directions are the same.
 

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Registered
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49 Posts
I replace fuel filter on my W8 months ago with the same procedure. The problem was that the clamp bolt was rusted and could not be removed so I had to cut the plastic clamp to remove filter. I installed the new fuel filter but now the filter is not fully secured and hold in position. Do you guys have any suggestions?
 

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Registered
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1 Posts
I replace fuel filter on my W8 months ago with the same procedure. The problem was that the clamp bolt was rusted and could not be removed so I had to cut the plastic clamp to remove filter. I installed the new fuel filter but now the filter is not fully secured and hold in position. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Industrial strength zip-ties
 
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