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Discussion Starter #1
So I had the dreaded diesel growl (1.8T B5 MT) start up about 2 weeks ago, growl was bad if I revved above 3k rpm or on downshifts. Ordered one online, got genuine part with install tool, used instructions from the info section to do the install. Great! Less than two hours problem solved, right?

Nope. Three days later the growl start again. Ok, so it' been 60k since I did the full TB service, but there's no sign of valve float or damage, power is good, just diesel growling. Have the improved tensioner in it, but ya never know.

Last night on errand trip with my stepdaughter and 1 yo in car, without warning hear a bang. Not pushing the car at all, barely above idle going downhill. Now no power through tranny. Clutch? Naaa. No warning, no slipping. Engine revs fine with clutch in, in fac, nice and smooth. Let clugh out, lots of crunching. Roll downhill into Quickie Mart, park, turn off car. Can't restart, strater not engaging.

Car flatbedded home courtesy of AAA, no charge. So now I have to get the wife's old car we were trying to sell re-registered, and work on Passat in freezing cold. Maybe now I can install the K0-4 and PC-16 package waiting in my basement.

My surmisal of the situation: GD dual mass flywheel must have assploded? At a mere 165k miles. Junk. What think ye, oh mighty PW consultants? Is this another DIY job? I just did the Miata, but that's like working on a toy, the trans was only 75 lbs and I could bench that in place. Should I go DM again, or lightweight flywheel and sprung clutch? Input welcome!
 

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In reverse, but chained to a tree.
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what likely happened was your clutch disk has been fractured all along, and finally just snapped to pieces. brake pads can do the same thing too, shatter from heat. (caused by glazing)

so here's a heads up.
if your clutch really did 'splode, you're looking at quite a bit of nasty damagepossibly done to both, the pressure plate AND the flywheel...
if you can, you may want to pull the trans completely (to make it easier to assess damages and replace parts), for the clutch R&R.
 

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what likely happened was your clutch disk has been fractured all along, and finally just snapped to pieces. brake pads can do the same thing too, shatter from heat. (caused by glazing)

so here's a heads up.
if your clutch really did 'splode, you're looking at quite a bit of nasty damagepossibly done to both, the pressure plate AND the flywheel...
if you can, you may want to pull the trans completely (to make it easier to assess damages and replace parts), for the clutch R&R.
The only way to do it would be to pull the trans, there is no other way to see the clutch really. OP the fact that is won't start seems odd. It should start when the shifter is in neutral with the clutch in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't think it's the clutch disk... the clutch is still working, at least it makes a difference when I have it disengaged. The starter has no resistance, not teeth to engage, spins without turning over the engine, so now, no way to start. But, before I turned it off, the engine still ran good, smooth enough even at higher revs, just no grip to the gears.

FWIW, I won't be doing this repair on an urgent basis. If I get a warm-up in the weather I'll start to pull the engine. I have a tent-shelter garage, but keeping heat in it during really cold weather is a losing battle.

So, those of you who know how this dual mass flywheel works, is it possible for it to still be attached to the crankshaft, but not be able to spin the input shaft to the tranny, or be engaged by the starter gear?
 
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