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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a CV boot failure the other day so I've got 2 kits arriving tomorrow from ECS. I'm going to replace both outer boots this weekend.

In the mean time after carefully degreasing the entire boot exterior with mineral spirits right up to the crack edge, I sealed the 2" opening with some high-temp silicone adhesive and it's holding as the tear is on the top of the boot where turning causes less movement than the front and back of the boot get.

I've got my Bentley and seen the few posts around about changing them. Any extra tips, tricks or issues you can pass on from your boot replacement experience?

Thanks!

EDIT:

OK guys, maybe it was good for your car but right off the bat, my drive axle bolt and the one in my new kit my kit use a 17mm not the 14mm this taligent site says. I had to put the car back down and go get that big monster hex driver to start again.

If you have used these instructions and done the full job on a 5.5, what else may be wrong with them? I have the 10mm 12pt star driver but when I get the car apart again, is it going to be 12mm or 14mm, which I don't have? Those triple squares are not that easy to find over 10mm.

Scott
 

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crew217 said:
http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/cvjoints/

best guide IMO

good luck . . . . its not an easy task . . . you going to try that new redline CV joint grease from ecs as well?
Ditto, best guide around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK guys, maybe it was good for your car but right off the bat, my drive axle bolt and the one in my new kit my kit use a 17mm not the 14mm this taligent site says. I had to put the car back down and go get that big monster hex driver to start again.

If you have used these instructions and done the full job on a 5.5, what else may be wrong with them? I have the 10mm 12pt star driver but when I get the car apart again, is it going to be 12mm or 14mm, which I don't have? Those triple squares are not that easy to find over 10mm.

Scott
 

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D ZIGNER said:
OK guys, maybe it was good for your car but right off the bat, my drive axle bolt and the one in my new kit my kit use a 17mm not the 14mm this taligent site says. I had to put the car back down and go get that big monster hex driver to start again.

If you have used these instructions and done the full job on a 5.5, what else may be wrong with them? I have the 10mm 12pt star driver but when I get the car apart again, is it going to be 12mm or 14mm, which I don't have? Those triple squares are not that easy to find over 10mm.

Scott

IIRC this is a running change . . . pre 5.5 B5's had issues with the outer joints so they beefed it up and are now using the same thing as the V6's.

As for the star drivers . . . . either buy a multipack . . . that has all of them . . . or buy all of them individually and keep your receipt. Best way to do it.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
crew217 said:
IIRC this is a running change . . . pre 5.5 B5's had issues with the outer joints so they beefed it up and are now using the same thing as the V6's.

As for the star drivers . . . . either buy a multipack . . . that has all of them . . . or buy all of them individually and keep your receipt. Best way to do it.

Dave
But they say they V6 is 16mm. My 1.8 is 17mm. :crazy:
 

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I found the same thing with the Hex head being a different size. Luckily I took the replacement bolt w/ me to Sears to find a tool. I was unable to find a socketed 17mm hex so I ended up using a HUGE allen wrench!

As for the remainder of the directions, they worked for me although I did not disconnect the control arms. We undid the sway bar and once the inner 12 pt. star bolts are removed, you can pull the shaft up and in to remove it rather than disconnecting the entire hub assembly. FAR EASIER this way.

Getting the CV joint off the shaft isn't easy but it will come if you keep at it. The challenge is getting it over that snap ring. Good luck to you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got both of mine done fine last weekend on my own and we did both of Jacob's last night in about 2 hours. The control arms are not that hard to get off if they've been removed before. Jacob had to do a bit of hammering on his :lol: :lol: but mine were real easy as I had lubed the joint real well when I installed my coilovers.

Scott
 

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spd33 said:
Getting the CV joint off the shaft isn't easy but it will come if you keep at it. The challenge is getting it over that snap ring. Good luck to you!
I'll second that. It seems like there is a sweet spot though if you hit it just right. Was 'beating' on it for like 90 minutes with it in the vise horizontally...when I put it in vertically and hit it once it fell right off. :crazy: I think when I do the right side I will try securing it vertically to start.

Joe
 

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The way I got FINALLY got it over the snap ring is by using half of the floor jack handle and giving it a good whack! Other than that, it took me 2 days of trying to use something smaller to get it done. Then, i messed up the grooves(spline?) by hammering it back on. WARNING WARNING WARNING... put your old bolt back in there and hammer that not the actual shaft.

My other cv boot just tore and this time I just have the time of patience for this. I am buying a rebuilt axle. It's worth my time to pay the few extra bucks.

Kevin
 
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