Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When it rains it pours, right? After having to get a new battery last week, 3K miles outside the warranty milage ,I discovered upon the tire rotation that a CV boot had split and had thrown grease all over the inside rim. This was at 53K miles.After hearing the cost decided to do only the one side which had split. If you have had CV boot problems,I like to hear from you at what milage your CV went, one side or both. Will the other boots acts up as well, is there a certain life expectancy here?An independent stated that its cheaper to go with a rebuilt axle unit period! I rather keep my undamaged axle instead of getting who knows what! What do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Incredible timing. My left one just went at 64K. What are we talking about in cost and what does it entail? Just a boot replacement right? Do they have to take off the whole brake/hub assembly?
Michael

BTW my rim is covered in black goo, damnit. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,050 Posts
boot change . . . $120 parts and labor.

I believe he was thinking of if the cv-joint goes bad . . . . then its cheaper to just buy a rebuilt axle.

I think the boots last pretty well . . . . i had to have mine replaced due to something tearing it. The boot kit is like $30 i believe with everything you need.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
965 Posts
I'm at 105k, and still no boot issues.
I have the boots sitting in the closet, and will probably replace them soon, as I just discovered my tie rod boot is ripped on one side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
732 Posts
MikeKim:

On your tie rod end boot, my right side one is torn at 103k. Instead of replacing it immediately my approach is to, each time I change the oil, lift that side of the car so the crack in the boot gets opened and then snick a dollop of wheel bearing grease in there.

As long as there is grease it will keep the dirt away from the actual joint. If the joint ever starts making noise or getting loose, of course I'm replacing it. I'm thinking though, that it may last quite a while with fresh grease to keep it lubed and the dirt at bay. In looking at other joints where there was no apparent tear in the boot, there still was not much grease in there so a boot that looks fine may be covering a dry joint.

Back to the thread topic now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Both of mine tore at about 58k. They've started clicking now at 61k. I'm going to replace both axles as soon as i get a chance. WIth that many miles, I figured it was a false economy to replace only the boots since I have to remove the axles either way, and can get a lifetime warranty on the reman'd axle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,876 Posts
My left one just tore. Noticed it a month ago. The wagon spent a month sitting as I was attending Field Training. I am going to get a quote at the local stealership for a boot replacement as it should have been caught early enough - it seems. I will keep ya'll posted.

Is a boot replacement a DIY? I saw the work for a rebuilt axle install.. doesnt seem something I want to do. Hope this boot will work.


Good news - oil hasnt leaked a drop since twenty cents worth of washers have been replaced (turbo related). This might be the first 2000 miles without a drip of oil loss for a long time for this wagon!

Peace! :D
Stephen. :b5:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
I got one estimate from a very reputable German machanics house and it was $215 for the boot replacement. $240 for a whole rebuilt axle with both inner and outer boots. Parts and labor for both.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

new axle from dealership is $572 :cry:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,050 Posts
hwmike said:
I got one estimate from a very reputable German machanics house and it was $215 for the boot replacement. $240 for a whole rebuilt axle with both inner and outer boots. Parts and labor for both.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

new axle from dealership is $572 :cry:
Wow that's a lot for the boot replacement . . . . sounds like he just doesn't want to bother with it. If you're anywhere close to handy, you can just buy the axle from raxles.com for $175 shipped and install it yourself. Not too difficult as long as you have the right tools.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Actually, they are extremely reliable and they know German cars...more so than the dealership I think. Anyway, he said the boot price was nominal, it was the labor that kills, so therefore, cheaper to do the whole thing. Kind of likethe water pump and timing belt dilema.
Just wondering what others are getting for quotes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
If the boot is torn, the CV joint is shot. It isn't worth tearing it down, just replacing the boot and have the CV fail 3 months later.

All mechanics (& VW) replace everything (with rebuilt axles) when they see a torn boot because they have no idea on how long it was run unlubricated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
921 Posts
changed my axle through a mieneke shop
wich offers life time warranty on the axle
just gotta pay labor if it needs to be replaced
(in my case couple six packs, he's a good friend :lol: )

i shoud mention im equipped with a
garret chip
ECS underdrive pulley's
brullen exhaust

wich my induce ware and tear

but the first time it went, i think, was due to me driving on a flat tire
(i had to, but not too farr)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,050 Posts
e36bmw said:
If the boot is torn, the CV joint is shot. It isn't worth tearing it down, just replacing the boot and have the CV fail 3 months later.
Not true, if you catch it early, there are no problems. Also usually the tears are small and the remaining grease will protect the joint from any problems. The grease isn't like motor oil . . . there is no / very little circulation of the grease on the joint so its not as if its going to pull any of the contaminants in.

e36bmw said:
All mechanics (& VW) replace everything (with rebuilt axles) when they see a torn boot because they have no idea on how long it was run unlubricated.
Partially true . . . but you also have to think . . . its a lot easier and less chances of F'ing up if the mechanic just pulls the axle and replaces it. Plus then the shop gets to make more money through parts and they will still charge you a hefty amount of labor for installing the new driveaxle.

I just had my boot replaced because i caught it within a day of it happening. However most places will let you know whether or not the joint needs to be replaced. The quality of the repair also factors into how well the joint is going to hold up. If the place has very little experience in doing the job, its better off for them just to swap driveaxles instead of trying to replace the boot.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,898 Posts
e36bmw said:
If the boot is torn, the CV joint is shot. It isn't worth tearing it down, just replacing the boot and have the CV fail 3 months later.
Not true (sorry to repeat). It would be probably a decent idea to replace the joint as well. But as stated before, if caught early enough, it should not be a problem. I replaced mine around 42k because both boots were torn all the way around, and then replaced them again 1k miles later, because they tore AGAIN! Now everything is fine, went for a higher grade of material for the boot, and its dandy. The joints have not given me trouble as of late (knock on wood).
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top