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I know this is from almost a year ago, but the autozone reman does it come with a new hex bolt for the axle?
The one I bought didn't. When I went back for the other side axle later, Autozones quality dropped to chinese rebuilt ones that I wouldnt buy, and I think that might have come with a bolt, but I bought new ones at the dealer for $11 or so a pop
 

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Yes, almost all new/reman axles come with new bolts. I think I have only had 1 axle out of several dozen that did not have a new bolt.
 

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The one I bought didn't. When I went back for the other side axle later, Autozones quality dropped to chinese rebuilt ones that I wouldnt buy, and I think that might have come with a bolt, but I bought new ones at the dealer for $11 or so a pop
Ok, thanks. I checked autozone first as the reason for my original question. I called autozone, they informed me that it is just the axle. Its listed as Duralast reman cv axle and the list price is 69.99 w/o the core exchange which is 10. Hoping it isnt the cheap one like you mentioned. Mine is the passenger side as well. The part # is 7184 and it has an alt part # which is 60-7241? However in the description it is named as being cardone? As far as napa goes, 53 for reman with like a 43 core price and like 107 for new. They also do not come with the axle bolt, listed on website. Now the napa ones are listed as napa maxdrive for both reman and new with part # NMD 952188. I dont want to go off the pics online(look the same) and I have not seen either one in person yet. Im guessing ask to take a look before commiting to buying? Also i checked ecs and they are calling for a 16mm hex bolt? But Ive read of only 14mm and 17mm. Again I have a 2003 1.8t auto. Thanks again for such the quick replies.
 

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Ok, thanks. I checked autozone first as the reason for my original question. I called autozone, they informed me that it is just the axle. Its listed as Duralast reman cv axle and the list price is 69.99 w/o the core exchange which is 10. Hoping it isnt the cheap one like you mentioned. Mine is the passenger side as well. The part # is 7184 and it has an alt part # which is 60-7241? However in the description it is named as being cardone? As far as napa goes, 53 for reman with like a 43 core price and like 107 for new. They also do not come with the axle bolt, listed on website. Now the napa ones are listed as napa maxdrive for both reman and new with part # NMD 952188. I dont want to go off the pics online(look the same) and I have not seen either one in person yet. Im guessing ask to take a look before commiting to buying? Also i checked ecs and they are calling for a 16mm hex bolt? But Ive read of only 14mm and 17mm. Again I have a 2003 1.8t auto. Thanks again for such the quick replies.
For the prices you mentioned above these axles most likely will be Chinese rebuilds. To save money you can always use new CV boot kit to replace the torn boot unless your CV joint has been making noises already. Why throw a good factory drive shaft away if you only need the outer CV boot?

The factory axle bolt for 1.8T should be M14 hex key head bolt which is using 14mm hex key to loose. But some of them may get interchanged by M16 hex key head bolt which is used on 2.8L V6. The M16 metric bolt is causing the confusion here where it has 16mm major thread diameter but uses 17mm hex key to loose the bolt.
 

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The factory axle bolt for 1.8T should be M14 hex key head bolt which is using 14mm hex key to loose. But some of them may get interchanged by M16 hex key head bolt which is used on 2.8L V6. The M16 metric bolt is causing the confusion here where it has 16mm major thread diameter but uses 17mm hex key to loose the bolt.
Thanks for the input, the labeling does cause confusion. As fas as a new boot is concerned, Im sure you'll read the other thread and that I don't have noises yet but with 122k and the boot being torn since last winter and hearing that the inner cv joint can go without worning even with a perfect boot, I wanted to just go with a new axle. I know you usually get what you pay for but sometimes you get lucky and the autozone ones seem ok to me, I will visually inspect the axle before purchasing and try and get the measurement off the old axle to compare to the autozone unit. as far as the hex bolt goes. ecs is listed as the 17mm for awm only. I do have to source a new bolt on my own as the reman axle does not come with one. I was planning on buying both the 14mm and 17mm bits ahead of time to confirm.
 

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I know this is from almost a year ago, but the autozone reman does it come with a new hex bolt for the axle?
If you mean the "stretch bolts", no you have to ask for them... HAVE TO, never reuse a stretch bolt.

No need to remove the suspension to install... Makes some maneuvering, just undo the lower rear ballpoint and (I think it was also) the tie rod.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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If you mean the "stretch bolts", no you have to ask for them... HAVE TO, never reuse a stretch bolt.
Thanks, yeah I know you shouldn't reuse them. I was just asking cause it wasnt listed online if it was included, but I called and they said it doesn't. When I went and actually picked it up and bought it, it did come with one but not the hex bolt just a 17mm I guess standard axle bolt. I already ordered the oem hex bolt from my vw dealer. Suppose to have been in today but my local vw dealer has been letting me down lately and now with the holidays prob not till mon they are saying. I ordered Mon morning. :banghead:
 

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doing this job right now actually and its rediculously easy. the only problem i had was finding the inner drive 6 bolts correct socket. its 10mm 12 star. looked everywhere for it, go to carquest.. they got a lot of options for 12 star to choose from. i have an 03 1.8t passat awm. once you get the the wheel and 17mm allen bolt off. put the lug nuts back in the rotor to keep the axle from spinning. i used an impact gun with the 10mm 12star socket to get the 6 bolts off. after each bolt removed put the car in neutral to spin axle to next bolt. once all off turn the steering wheel slightly to the right (working on drivers side axle) and it pretty much pulls right out like a loose hooker. good luck!!
 

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1/2 way there...

Instructions worked perfectly for the driver's side of my 2000 GLX V6 w/manual tranny (198,850 miles as of today!) but the passenger side is giving me fits. Old axle came out only when I finally turned the steering wheel all the way to the left and even then, I could get the CV end clear only by carefully levering it out.

Have not been able to find the sweet spot where to put the inboard side of the axle so that I can get the splined end in. Definitely less room than on the driver's side.

So, a couple of questions:

- is the 1/2 turn to the left of the steering wheel really the position that affords the most clearance for the CV end? It seems to me that turning the steering wheel further left pushed the rearward side of the wheel assembly further right which should allow more room to get the splined end in. Indeed, I am just a couple millimeters away from making it with this setup...

- Maybe my problem is with how I'm attempting to get the outboard (splined) end in. With the engine side of the axle up as high above it's proper connection point as I can get it, I am trying to bend the CV side so that the spline goes into the bearing area first. Should I instead be letting it trail behind the rest of the CV joint as I move the axle itself towards the front of the car?

My CV axles are from Raxles, btw.

Many thanks for your attention.
 

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I had to undo my lower control arm to get mine back in and have a friend pull the rest up while installing it.
good luck or just keep trying to find the sweet spot.
 

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Yep, that's exactly what I ended up doing, Scott!

Note that you'll need an 18mm crow's foot to properly torque down that lower control arm nut because the CV joint prevents you from getting a socket on the nut.
 

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Replaced both axles on my 02 1.8T auto yesterday with Raxles. The passenger side axle was so easy to remove, it practically fell out. So I thought putting the new one in would be easier than everyone says. Wrong!

At first I didn't push the inner end up high enough and far enough forward, somehow managed to wedge the axle tight. It took 5 minutes to wiggle it loose. Once the inner end was up in the empty space, I could see the outer shaft was just slightly off from the perfect angle to slip into the hub. Having a 2nd person turn the steering wheel made it easy to line up and slip in.

On both sides, I wiggled the ABS sensor out about 1/4" so it wouldn't get damaged. Wasn't really necessary on the driver side, but I'm really glad I did it on the passenger side.

I didn't know until I ordered, but Raxles includes all the special socket bits (on loan, you return them with your core).
 

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Doing the passenger side and having trouble convincing myself the axel is all the way in the hub. I'm still seeing splines in the hub and would have thought the axel would go all the way in. I have taken it out 3 times and still am not convinced it's seated.

So, should i still be able to see splines when i look in the hub?
 
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