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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
98' Passat 1.8t automatic
Doing timing belt replacement. Realized the lower TB cover is covered with tar-like oily substance. Should I assume it is the crank seal leak?
If so, should I replace the crank pinchbolt with new one?
Thanks. Auto part Gear Bicycle part Engine Automotive engine part
Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was reading some write ups and comments. Somebody suggested to leave it alone unless it leaks badly noting that as it is an old engine, removing the bolt may damage the crank itself. (chipping or cracking it) This scared me! Can it happen to my 17 year-old old lady with 312.000 miles on her? Should I leave it alone?
The oil level is always steady between oil changes, not losing or burning oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I am gonna give this a try. I will replace the oil seal as well as the crank seal cover gasket. Will use a new bolt.
One question: Should I use a thread locker on the bolt?
 

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While you are in there and with this many miles might as well replace it. If you really don't loose any oil between OCs then the tar like stuff is most likely from an old vcg leak. if you never cleaned that part of the engine after fixing the pcv/vcg issues that's what caused all that gunk buildup

The oil level is always steady between oil changes, not losing or burning oil.

Do you really go through a 3-5K OCI without loosing any oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
While you are in there and with this many miles might as well replace it. If you really don't loose any oil between OCs then the tar like stuff is most likely from an old vcg leak. if you never cleaned that part of the engine after fixing the pcv/vcg issues that's what caused all that gunk buildup




Do you really go through a 3-5K OCI without loosing any oil?
Well, the engine has a strange and unpredictable pattern. I can go 3000 miles with no drop in oil level and the next day I may need to add about half a quart. In the course of the next oil lifetime till the oil change, I may not even need to add anything. I have never had to use more than a quart of oil in a 3000-4000 mile period, which I believe is acceptable for a 17 year old 310.000 mile engine.
When I park the car, I sometimes see one or two drops of oil (not antifreeze or anything) on the ground.
But, that goop or grease like substance on the TB cover, I don't know how it happened.
 

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Then maybe that's where it is coming from. These seals will eventually fail but usually the engine dies of other reasons before those seals start leaking.

I'd be curious to know your compression and oil pressure test results if you ever so them. At this mileage you have a pretty tight engine if you loose so little oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Then maybe that's where it is coming from. These seals will eventually fail but usually the engine dies of other reasons before those seals start leaking.

I'd be curious to know your compression and oil pressure test results if you ever so them. At this mileage you have a pretty tight engine if you loose so little oil.
I replaced the oil pump about 60k ago as the old one, the original pump, was failing. I was fed up with engine oil pressure buzzing on me. The oil pressure is restored to normal. I cant remember the exact figures but the compression was exceptionally good on all cylinders. (I remember the figures 180, 170, 180, 180) on cylinders but not what pressure measurement are they.

I am trying to devise a homemade tool to keep the camshaft sprocket in place removing and installing the bolt.
 

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If there is no fresh oil leak visible, I would recommend that you don't attempt to replace the seal.
There is a key built into the crank TB pulley that sometimes breaks when removing the bolt, this can also damage the groove in the crank.

I don't see any reason for a tool to hold the camshaft pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello, my concern is if any possible leak leak gets into the timing belt reducing its life and resulting in failure. It's definitely oozing out of the crank shaft area. But not affecting the oil level. On the other hand i have heard horror stories like you mentioned. I have been spraying pb blaster on the bolt every hour all day long for an easy removal. But, i am torn.
 

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OK....

Before you put a 1/2 inch drive socket on that crankshaft bolt and begin wailing away on it, what will you be using to "hold" the crankshaft while extracting that bolt?

Surely that "what" won't be your transmission?!?

This is not just another bolt, BTW. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, I didn't risk and put the car back together without replacing the oil seal and the bolt. I will check the TB occasionally for oil residue and if necessary will replace it prematurely. I will let you know if something happens.
 

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I made a tool specifically to bolt to the end of the crank, just so I can remove the crank bolt to replace the seal. 1/8" thick stock I bought at Home Depot, cut out for the crank bolt, holes matched up to use the old dampener bolts on the crank gear. I wedge it against the ground/garage floor, and use a 4' long piece of black pipe with my breaker bar.
 

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I made a tool specifically to bolt to the end of the crank, just so I can remove the crank bolt to replace the seal. 1/8" thick stock I bought at Home Depot, cut out for the crank bolt, holes matched up to use the old dampener bolts on the crank gear. I wedge it against the ground/garage floor, and use a 4' long piece of black pipe with my breaker bar.
A picture would be worth 52 words :)
 
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