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Got it. Almost there...

how do I get the black (oil (??) what is that??) pipe out of the way that runs along the passenger side bank to the front pump?

it’s stopping me from twisting the water pipe up on that side:

View attachment 100355

see how it’s on top of the water pipe and in the way...

View attachment 100356
That's the power steering hose I was referring to in my previous post.
With disconnected at the union fitting you'll be to get that pipe out of the way enough to get the coolant hard pipe out.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
That's the power steering hose I was referring to in my previous post.
With disconnected at the union fitting you'll be to get that pipe out of the way enough to get the coolant hard pipe out.
That’s exactly what I did. Cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yeah, that's the p/s steering pressure line. I am pretty sure I unbolted it at the pump and then the 10mm bolt on the valve cover.
Audi sells heater hose repair clips. You can also get them in AL, but I have not tried them, but it is tempting.


Ok, the BEST part of that part from AliExpress is the product video - 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Well, at least I can clean things up now as I wait for parts...

100376


also going to clean up the metal water pipe and put some heat proof black paint on to spruce it up a bit... or should I choose a cool colour like red?? What colour should I paint it?

100377
 

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I would keep it black. This way the next coolant leak would still be visible :p
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Hmm maybe. Wouldn’t the pink show up against VW Blue? lol... maybe black...
 

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Discussion Starter #47
New temp sensor.. and metal clip?? Should I use it or the standard plastic one? The metal one looks thicker so it may hold the sensor harder into its seat?

100394
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So, tomorrow I get my replacement sender hose to the heater core from the water pipe and both throttle body heater hoses, and the remaining missing o-ring for the long water pipe portion going to the front of the engine block (missed that last time). Then I can put the thing back together again... HOPEFULLY no more leaks as I've replaced every bloody hose, gasket, o-ring, and PCV part under or around the intake manifold... sheesh... I will report on progress... today I have to paint the water pipe as the etching rust primer is now on it after cleaning it all up. It's NOT the greatest job but enough to stop the rust once painted.

100408
 

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I would keep it black. This way the next coolant leak would still be visible :p
I remember somebody bashing me when I repainted my the coolant pipes and engine black when I rebuilt my wife's 2003 V6 engine.
Not saying it was you Paul, I just remember getting a hard time because of it.
 

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New temp sensor.. and metal clip?? Should I use it or the standard plastic one? The metal one looks thicker so it may hold the sensor harder into its seat?

View attachment 100394

Metal clip for the masses.

Oh, it's cool to paint those hard pipes black, just sayin'
 

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I remember somebody bashing me when I repainted my the coolant pipes and engine black when I rebuilt my wife's 2003 V6 engine.
Not saying it was you Paul, I just remember getting a hard time because of it.
I would not remember anything more than a week or two ago. I have a permanent "Brain Fog" :)
See who remembers where that is from!
 

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Ha found it.
From Wife's Rehab Project
Man was that a project. To bad all the picture links are dead.


Post #76
Why black though? You wont see any oil leak (god forbid since all this work and money..) why not neon green or silver? :lol:

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The oil leak is whoever that told you not to paint the engine black's fault. Totally jinxed you.:icon_eek:
 

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Nm - I just disconnected the joint towards the back.. seems like ATF fluid? Probably shouldn’t have done that but got impatient... However, I think I now know the real issue for the leak. The Heater core supply hose was looking very wet, was cracked at the joint, and just snapped off when trying to remove it; I was hoping to find something obvious like this:
Hi Rob, following your excellent post as I’m in the same boat as you with my ’99 Audi A6 2.8 30v v6. Do you have a pic of the offending hose? I’m stuck trying to remove the intake manifold, can’t seem to get it free. Trying to search for the rear leak which on mine flows down and over the starter. Still searching...
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Hi Rob, following your excellent post as I’m in the same boat as you with my ’99 Audi A6 2.8 30v v6. Do you have a pic of the offending hose? I’m stuck trying to remove the intake manifold, can’t seem to get it free. Trying to search for the rear leak which on mine flows down and over the starter. Still searching...
ok, back at the intake manifold - The only thing I didn't disconnect is the fuel line sender and return line. @PZ gave a link back on post #8 of this thread for full instructions!

Once everything else is free of the intake manifold:
  • be SUPER careful at removing the small and skinny harder plastic vacuum lines that end with double ribs that poke into the softer rubber hoses. They might be brittle and need replacing... My VW dealer ordered the wrong version as they got me the rear combi valve replacement version of it instead of the one that goes to the vacuum pump up by the ABS controller. But with that collection of pieces, I both fixed my brittle combi valve small line and had enough to replace the front one.
  • be SUPER careful with he Intake manifold 'drive unit' that's hooked up to the vacuum line on the passenger side as the drive link bar breaks off from the connector socket...
  • Ignition coil removed
  • PCV pipe removed
  • Injector sensor harnesses removed from both banks
  • Air Snorkle from the back of throttle body
  • Throttle body removed
The Intake manifold is held down on the engine body by two plastic catch mounts:
100410

Once everything is free of the Intake Manifold, grab it and yank up. Those plastic anchors will most likely snap off. Those are like twenty cents so get new ones and drill out the broken off bases (vacuum up anything... block the intake holes in the heads...)

  • order all the gaskets, o-rings (at least seven) for anything you touch
  • and replacement pipes for anything crappy you find since you're in there. (brittle vacuum, or swollen cooler/heater pipes.
** I believe the ultimate issue with my V6 for the coolant leak was the sender hose from the hard pipe to the heater core. But that's more on the driver's side and not above the starter.

1596803780790.png

Had to replace everything just to get to it.
 
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Discussion Starter #57
Hey V6 gurus... any tips on how to install the hard pipe and the heater core sender hose? The hose must be connected with o-ring and connection clip in place as you won't be able to get in there once the hard pipe is installed.... So my thoughts are:

  • attach the hose to the hard pipe with clip installed
  • install hard pipe on the engine, with heater core hose sort of flopping around behind and under the hard pipe and basically lying on the transmission
  • once the hard pipe is in, feed the heater core hose up behind the firewall
??
Or start with the heater core hose barely into the hole under the firewall and then try to get the hard pipe in (already having connected the hose and hard pipe together?
??
Or
install the sender hose on the heater core, leading out under the firewall
then install the hard pipe and somehow attach the hose behind and under the hard pipe and somehow get the clip on?

What I'm worried about is stressing the 90-degree plastic elbow of the hose that connects to the hard pipe. I don't want to break it in the install... because it's plastic... and why plastic for such a part???
 

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Uh, you should be able to get those heater hose(s) on & off the hard pipe with no trouble, even with the hard pipe installed.
I've done it numerous times.
If you cannot get those hoses on, something is wrong. Like maybe the engine is sitting back to far in the engine compartment. There is 'some' adjustment for that between the slop on the transmission mounts and the engine motor mounts. The motor mounts actually have a few holes in them for location / positioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Uh, you should be able to get those heater hose(s) on & off the hard pipe with no trouble, even with the hard pipe installed.
I've done it numerous times.
If you cannot get those hoses on, something is wrong. Like maybe the engine is sitting back to far in the engine compartment. There is 'some' adjustment for that between the slop on the transmission mounts and the engine motor mounts. The motor mounts actually have a few holes in them for location / positioning.
Well, then I'll install both (hose first, then pipe) and see about reaching back there. I can get my hand in if I get the wiring harness out of my way... With my luck, I'll drop the hose mount clip and it'll end up in the flywheel housing from that hole in the top driver's side... (yes, I already fished out another sensor clip that fell in there with a long wire and a magnetic pointer... 😅 ) Interesting about the engine mounts!
 

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Did you install the intake manifold yet?
FYI
Getting at those heater hoses is easy peasy with the intake removed.
 
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