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Hiya RAH, Did mainly maintenance stuff, belts, rollers, main seals, new head gaskets, head bolts, and inspected tensioner pads. measured turbochargers for play and movement. then cleaned, painted, and assembled. Going to keep the engine fairly stock, I am looking to get a W8 FWD 6 speed next. Thank you much and for your interest.
Very nice! W8 6 speed is one of my favorite car for sure, always wanted one espacially in the wagon form but hard to find. I opted for another unicorn instead but still have my B5. Can't wait to see more updates on your end!
 

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One of my planned swaps. Gotta say very nice. As I just found a 2001 A6 with the 2.7t and 6sp manual. Hoping to pick it up for $1000 or less. I needs a lot of work. Then all I will need is a 4mo wagon needing an engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hi all, It has been a while since I updated anything. I have upgraded to B5 S4 brakes and rotors, Full Bilstein shocks and struts. world of a difference! I am still trouble shooting some issues. chasing a pesky P1500 Code for Fuel pump relay short and a P1800 series for Bank 2 Sensor 2 resistance too high have replaced the sensor twice to trouble shoot it still there. but other then that, been over 15k miles on the swap and still love it all lol. If anyone has a suggestion for the P1500 I would really appreciate the help! I will post of pictures when I am off work tonight.
 

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Did you rewire the dash or just the engine side plugs? Are the grounds still in place and good behind the coolant tank, under the driver's side left foot well and of course, the frame horn to motor mount bracket. That might be the issue for both of the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Did you rewire the dash or just the engine side plugs? Are the grounds still in place and good behind the coolant tank, under the driver's side left foot well and of course, the frame horn to motor mount bracket. That might be the issue for both of the codes.
Hi PZ. Just the engine harness. To get the car running I had to ground the small pin on the fuel pump relay directly. I have not removed ir cut any of the other wiring at all under the dash.
 

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Does the engine harness have a ground under the coolant tank? Not sure if the 2.7T harness is that different from a 2.8. I have had to loosen and tighten O2 sensors even though they have their own ground wire. I don't know much about the fuel pump relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Does the engine harness have a ground under the coolant tank? Not sure if the 2.7T harness is that different from a 2.8. I have had to loosen and tighten O2 sensors even though they have their own ground wire. I don't know much about the fuel pump relay.
There is a ground for the 2.7t engine, that one is good and clean. I can double check the toqrue on the O2 sensors, did not think about that at all of effecting the resitance. I will do some more digging on the Fuel pump relay stuff. I managed to get my hands on some diagrams from the 1.8 and 2.7 so I will paw over thoses and source the problem hopefully that way.
 

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I have a W8, and a V6 fwd. I want to do this swap in the V6 for my wife as it's a manual. What parts would I have to find? Just motor and computer? Will the swap work on the 2.8 motor, or do I need to have the 2.7?
 

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You would need a good 2.7T to start with. The 2.8 will not hold together long with twin turbos. Traction will also be an issue.
 

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What's the difference between the two? Is the 2.7 stronger, and if so what makes it so? It wouldn't surprise me, other manufactures do that, so I wouldn't be. I'm looking at picking up an entire allroad car, just would like to know what I would need to keep. Engine, harness, any bits from inside? I'm not as worried about traction, that'll be something I can look into. Has anyone done a write up on it? I haven't found one, more than just time lapse videos
 

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The 2.7T uses better pistons (and probably rods) stock vs the 2.8. They use basically the same block, but the 2.7T has 6 bolt mains (4 on the cap, 2 on the sides). There are plenty of swap writeups on AudiZine in their B5 A4 forum. The Passat is based on the B5 A4, so almost everything matches.

The motor, exhaust, engine harness and ECU are needed. It might be plug and play from a B5 S4, but I don't know if the C5 A6 based Allroad had the same harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well. the Time has come to have to pull the 2.7T out. having some Engine wire harness issues still. and the left hand turbo is about to fail. We got a very fun 26k miles out of the swap in less then 2 years. so very happy. I am rebuilding a 1.8t that was in our Passat before. I posted in the B5 Garage. here is the Link for the rebuild. Rebuilding my AUG code 1.8t
I will run the K03 for break in, then after that I will be upgrading to a Billet K04, and a few other little add ins. The 2.7t will be completely taken apart and rebuilt in the same manner at the 1.8t. still.. the 2.7t swap is by far the most fun and I will be putting it back in once I get to get the 6speed AWD system installed!
 

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Interested to see how you will adapt AWD to the FWD body, because it is not a bolt on deal. It's a lot of cutting, welding, reinforcement, and precise measurements. Have you thought about how to go about it?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Interested to see how you will adapt AWD to the FWD body, because it is not a bolt on deal. It's a lot of cutting, welding, reinforcement, and precise measurements. Have you thought about how to go about it?
It will me later down the road. I am not stranger to special fabrication work. so it will be fun! Stuffing a Audi 4.2 V8 into my 924.
98966
 

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That must have been a fun car to drive. Was there much of a weight difference between the engines? The 2.5 was a heavy engine.
The 1.8T 4Mo with the stock AUG is pretty slow after 2nd gear. It will run ok on the highway, but it was useless in the mountains. I was down to 3rd going through the backroads of Utah trying (and failing) to hold 80mph up some steep hills. Of course, I had a CEL on, so it was even weaker than normal. A 300+hp version would be nice, which is why I bought the 2.0 stroker when it was available locally. For now, I expect I will chip it, put in all the supporting mods I have (FMIC, 240mm stage 2 clutch, exhaust, HFC, shifter upgrades, etc..), fix up the interior cloth and maybe sell the 2.0 block and GTX2863. The extra 60hp and 80lbs of torque should help, but I might hold onto the F21l until I see if I am content with the chip.

Handling with the AUG is so much better than with the 2.8, and the 2.7T is even heavier. I know I lost about 200lbs up front and the balance is better, especially with the wagon. The trunk on the 4Mo sedan is 50% smaller (or looks to be), so the wagon is much more useful (but not as solid).
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I have not got to drive her yet with the 4.2L been working on her since 2015. that is when I started the swap. I have owned my 924 since 2001. drove many many miles on the stock cast iron 2.0l it had. the 4.2 is not really that heavy. since it is all aluminum and is just as short as the 1.8t block. from what I have read the dressed weight of the 4.2 is 430 lbs. but this engine will not be fully dressed. I do plan to pull the whole engine apart and I may weigh everything and see how much it all joins together at.
Ah okay, I have heard the 4 motion is a nice set up. I do have the 5 speed manual. so that does help. I will be limited to 300hp until I do the AWD upgrade. even if I get 250hp in the 1.8t that is still plenty. that is 100hp over the stock AUG numbers.
I hope you can get what you want and able to build that 2.0l up! that will be a riot.
I Notice a little handling difference. but I up graded the suspension all around to Bilstien and that really made a nice difference in the handling! the nose can drag a little if going too fast through the corners. but nothing insane. Not having the wagon space does help.
 

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I've heard the 4.2 was similar to the 2.8 in weight. I did my suspension long before the swap, so the weight change was really noticeable.
Here is my post about the engine weights when I did the swap:

The 1.8T fully dressed (OEM flywheel/clutch, cat, downpipe, alternator, intake, p/s pump, starter) but without the a/c weighed in at 426lbs.

The 2.8 V6 with the lightweight flywheel, 4 cats, downpipes, a/c (but no starter), weighed in at 519 lbs.

The FWD 5sp manual (no flywheel/clutch) weighed in at 95 lbs. I did not weigh the 4MO 6sp manual without the lightweight flywheel/clutch but it should be about 160-165 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Hey PZ, Thank you for the good information. I always appreciate having it. that is pretty surprising on the fully dressed weight of the engines CastIron weighs a lot! my only 924 2.0l was close to 400lbs.
 

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I've seen writeups with the 944 that mentioned the 1.8T is significantly lighter than the 2.5 motor. Since (I think) the 924 used a similar block as the 944, the weight would be similar. The dual cats made up half of the weight difference between the V6 and 1.8T, an inline motor design is heavier due to the extra mains. That's why the VR6 is so heavy and can handle more power than the 2.7T.
 
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