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^^^This!
But..... There's one question that hasn't even been asked, much less answered, in this thread:
OP, please define "not starting." Does the engine crank (starter engages, and spins the engine), but not start?
Or, is this a 'no-crank' situation (starter does not engage / operate)?
Right!

When I took maintenance calls back in the day, we had to ask. No crank-no start or crank-no start.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
^^^This!
But..... There's one question that hasn't even been asked, much less answered, in this thread:
OP, please define "not starting." Does the engine crank (starter engages, and spins the engine), but not start?
Or, is this a 'no-crank' situation (starter does not engage / operate)?
It had done this on and off with the old module still hooked up some days after the hard rain . However I think a bad black power wire/ I guess /Was not a great connection. But yes if the alarm horn and crap started going off it would some times start. But when the connectors would be pulled off it would not start - and no horn kicking in. After re connect and a few min. later the horn would kick in. but no start. Might this number 13 relay have gotten soaked ? I only found 1 fuse on the side panel (number 1)- 5 amp burnt out.or at least a 5 amp was in that spot. I'm selling this thing and already way to much money in it to really make anything off of it. If the used module gets it going / will it run and someone else can vag-com it.for the key fob.? I just don't need that program - every thing we have here are chevy tahoes. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It had done this on and off with the old module still hooked up some days after the hard rain . However I think a bad black power wire/ I guess /Was not a great connection. But yes if the alarm horn and crap started going off it would some times start. But when the connectors would be pulled off it would not start - and no horn kicking in. After re connect and a few min. later the horn would kick in. but no start. Might this number 13 relay have gotten soaked ? I only found 1 fuse on the side panel (number 1)- 5 amp burnt out.or at least a 5 amp was in that spot. I'm selling this thing and already way to much money in it to really make anything off of it. If the used module gets it going / will it run and someone else can vag-com it.for the key fob.? I just don't need that program - every thing we have here are chevy tahoes. thanks
BUT i HAVE BECOME A REAL PASSAT FAN AND HAD MANY A BLESSED HEAD ACHES AND CUSSING FITS PLAYING WITH IT. / I HAVE ACUTUALLY SURPRISED MYSELF WITH MY ABILITIES. vw's were are bread and butter growing up my dad had a vw shop
 

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If there is a relay in position #12, remove it and connect a jumper across the socket (Pins that the contacts connect to)
That will allow it to crank and start, regardless of the state of the CCM.

Edit: Corrected typo (wrong relay #)
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If there is a relay in position #13, remove it and connect a jumper across the socket (Pins that the contacts connect to)
That will allow it to crank and start, regardless of the state of the CCM.
might you be able to draw me a schematic of the pins I need to jump . or is it just a 18 gauge short wire connected to where the relay connects into . hell its all a bit over my head with wiring I failed electronics in school. Just praying these harness wires with the CCM are all the same the ones as the wiring on the old harness. Seems the one black wire leading into one of the connectors has been rigged - it's has a plastic coating around it - with a mesh silver wire wrapped around it. you actually have to take a safety pin and attempt to unravel it without breaking any of it. then solder it to a different pin connection side by side . I'm thinking it's a ground wire or a hot wire. it's a damn mess to explain.
101415
 

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Read this post: Car wont start please help
And look at this picture. Relay 13 is 373 on the far right, next to the 185 relay. It can also be labelled as 53 on some Passats. There will be 2 large power wires plugs to jump and 2 smaller connectors.
101416
 
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Discussion Starter #28
If there is a relay in position #13, remove it and connect a jumper across the socket (Pins that the contacts connect to)
That will allow it to crank and start, regardless of the state of the CCM.
OK thanks I will give it a try. hoping not to burn something out. I let you know how it turned out.
 

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If there is a relay in position #12, remove it and connect a jumper across the socket (Pins that the contacts connect to)
That will allow it to crank and start, regardless of the state of the CCM.

Edit: Corrected typo (wrong relay #)
OK thanks I will give it a try. hoping not to burn something out. I let you know how it turned out.
I incorrectly said relay #13, relay #12 is the start inhibit relay for the alarm system.
I have corrected the original post.

Only connect one jumper across the relay, connect the 2 red/black wires together. (Do NOT connect a jumper across the other wires)

Relay #13 is the start inhibit relay for the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
to late I already burnt it all up LOL.Thanks for the correction I would have been let down if I did 13 and nothing would happen and thanks again for the help.
I incorrectly said relay #13, relay #12 is the start inhibit relay for the alarm system.
I have corrected the original post.

Only connect one jumper across the relay, connect the 2 red/black wires together. (Do NOT connect a jumper across the other wires)

Relay #13 is the start inhibit relay for the transmission.
I'll send you an update
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Still waiting for the update.
well here is where I am. pics of the old and new CCM harness connector where I have one yellow and green left / left over . first pic is information off of B pillar..... pic 2 is the old unit / pic 3 new used unit / pic 4 shows connector I had to rewire / 5 is wires to connector the ones that look mucked up was caused by me trying to remove pins to black wire connection. that wire has a mesh like silver wiring wrapped-- around a copper one that is insulated and fits into a pin . and the mesh wire connects next to it in a separate pin. MUST BE A GROUND best I can figure. and last pic shows a yellow and green that had no where it is supposed to go on the new used connector . . question is will this new box work and what the hell is the green yellow -- ANYBODY.. WEATHER HAS BEEN A BITE HERE NOT ABLE TO WORK OUTSIDE WITH THE WINDS COLD AND RAIN BUT THEY ARE CALLING FOR NICER WEATHER LATER IN THE WEEK. . sorry I'm not yelling just keep hitting the caps lock lol
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Discussion Starter #34
Did you check all of the fuses already? The wires will need to be unwrapped until all of the splices are checked. Can't say if the CCM is bad until the fuses and splices are checked. This is not my strong point, I expect others will check in.
did check fuses number 1 was burnt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
might you be able to draw me a schematic of the pins I need to jump . or is it just a 18 gauge short wire connected to where the relay connects into . hell its all a bit over my head with wiring I failed electronics in school. Just praying these harness wires with the CCM are all the same the ones as the wiring on the old harness. Seems the one black wire leading into one of the connectors has been rigged - it's has a plastic coating around it - with a mesh silver wire wrapped around it. you actually have to take a safety pin and attempt to unravel it without breaking any of it. then solder it to a different pin connection side by side . I'm thinking it's a ground wire or a hot wire. it's a damn mess to explain. View attachment 101415
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices need
to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at this link, before you start. (Note: This is a UK car, the CCM is always on the LHS)

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
Water Ingress and Solutions
I'll look into this thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I suggest you completely unwrap all of the CCM harness and pull the wires apart to find the splices, any corroded splices need
to be cut back, soldered, and covered with marine grade heat shrink tubing. (You might need to add short wires to replace what you cut out)
Also check ground connections (1 on floor and on "A" Pillar), and check CCM/TCM and "A" Pillar connectors.

Have a good look at this link, before you start. (Note: This is a UK car, the CCM is always on the LHS)

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
Water Ingress and Solutions
When you speak of A PILLAR I see nothing running along there - bunch of wires run up into the direction of the fusebox area - at that point its hard to tell what is what or how to get into them / is it a black / or brown -- have a brown ground on the floor which is easy to locate
 

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Discussion Starter #38
^^^This!
But..... There's one question that hasn't even been asked, much less answered, in this thread:
OP, please define "not starting." Does the engine crank (starter engages, and spins the engine), but not start?
Or, is this a 'no-crank' situation (starter does not engage / operate)?
no crank no start
 

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The 15 pin harness:

Pos 7 and 10 are the antenna and shielding

Pos 9 (yellow/Green) is from earlier models and it's for the interior monitoring system (red 10 pin connector in the bottom of the A pillar). It is not on any pinout for the 15 pin CCM connector after Aug 1999.

Having a hard time understanding. Do you have a yellow/green wire in your car, but the plugs you have do not accommodate?
 

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Have you tried a jumper in the relay #12 socket ?
That should allow it to crank and start.
 
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