[gladiahtorr]

2001.5 VW Passat 1.8t FWD AWM Sedan

My car when cold will not start on the first try, it will start up for a slight second and die. IT starts absolutely perfect the second time. this situation happens about 75% of times

It should not be a CTS because I've just had a startup problem and sensor replacement fixed the issue. Coil packs are around 1.5 yrs (OEM), spark plugs not even a year (NGK Performance), fuel pump around a year (OEM).
I have no codes

I also have a question about the removal of SAIP
I'm getting a unitronic stage 1+ during a waterfest and they offer a SAIP code delete so I was wondering how to appropriately get rid of it? I mean do i just simply pull the pump with hoses out? but what about anything else? do i cover the ends with something? It apparently takes some power away from your car and is not necessary in the car so why not then... It also seems to be getting old on me, it's ridiculously loud when i start up my car, i'd say im almost embarrassed lol

 

[scotts13]

The SAIP does not affect the performance of your car in any way; it just reduces pollution. It's also illegal to remove or disable it, though in most states you're unlikely to be caught. I'm sure there must be several threads on what to remove and how (you'll have to cap where the hoses previously connected) but you could also just leave it in place, pulling the electrical connector if it gets too loud. That way you can more easily restore the system if necessary.

 

[FrescoGreen01.5]

If you unplug or remove the SAIP itself, even temporarily, disconnect the vacuum hose from the combi valve (two combi valves for V6). Presuming the combi is working as it should, it defaults to close without vacuum. That will keep the exhaust from blowing backwards down the SAIP outlet.

A failed (open/leaking) combi valve is usually what kills SAIPs--the water in the exhaust (a product of combustion) condenses in the SAIP and corrodes it (or freezes).

 

[Tomvw]

Use VCDS to check what temp the CTS is reporting to the ECU. (A new CTS or its wiring can be faulty)

 

[Sam02Passat]

If the SAIP is only needed for emissions and could be deleted why would the car start poorly if only the SAIP were malfunctioning? Also I thought I had a bad SAIP and it was just the relay for the SAIP (in the fuse box) which is much cheaper and easier to replace ($30)
Check the fuel pressure regulator, mine was stuck (uses vac pressure to actuate the valve) and so I would get shuddering and chugging when I pressed the gas firmly because the fuel mix wasn't being adjusted well or at all.
I replaced the FPR ($40) and the shuddering stopped immediately, in fact it had gotten so bad the car wouldn't start at all until after I changed out the FPR and then it started right up and blew a bunch of smoke for the first 3 mins. Since then the shuddering hasn't returned. Both of these parts can be changed with minimal tools in a matter of a few mins. The SAIP relay was 3 screws holding down the fuse box cover and the FPR was a flathead to pop the retaining clip out. Easier and cheaper than a shop diagnose and then you know those parts are good.