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Discussion Starter #1
So I got a new (to me) VW. Its been pretty neglected, It might be to the point where it just needs to be resprayed. I'm trying to get away without having to do that though. I clay barred the hood fenders and doors before i ran out of daylight but i went out and did the baggie test and it still feels like there is sand on the paint surface. Should i clay bar again or what? Any ideas or solutions?


Thanks Guys.
 

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Id go over it one more time, just make sure the knead the clay so the surface you're using is fresh. If nothing after that.. id say its too gone to recover. Put some pictures up so we can see what you're dealing with!
 

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Just remember clay is good but will not easily remove some certain things on the surface ..

Fine sap/pitch whch has been there a while .. depending on the sap ... use mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol and even sometimes terpentine.

Fine specks of toad tar should be removed with Varsol or mineral spirits.
 

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You could even use WD-40 to remove tar based things. It really depends on what the roughness is coming from; if it's been really neglected or a bad respray, then you may have to work harder (buffer, wet sand, etc.), or may have to sand and repaint.
 

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Some clays are also more mild or agressive than others. Where did you get it and what type is it? The clay that they sell in the auto parts store is mild consumer clay and usually includes a wax. They do this because all clay will scratch paint, but the milder clays are, well, milder and the scratches can usually be covered up with wax (not forever obviously) and they also want you to apply a protectant to the newly revealed surface after the clay bar process. A more agressive clay will work faster, and remove more surface contaminants, but it also scratches more. These clays are usually used by professionals and the claybar process is followed up by a polish/machine glaze and then a final sealant. If you have good buffer (they can be bought on amazon [chinese] now for $45) with a yellow wool pad or a black 3m foam pad you can use a lot of fine polishes and waxes to follow up your claybar job. I would recommend getting a more agressive clay from a painters supply shop (they will sell different grades too, even among the professional clays) and polish the car with a real polisher with a mild polishing agent on a yellow wool pad (white ones are usually more agressive). The walmart orbital buffers just don't cut it, and aren't that much cheaper than the high speed ones you can get on amazon now for cheap. For a novice you really can use one with a yellow pad and a liquid wax as polish (the wool pad has enough abrasion on its own to remove many of the scratches you will encounter) and it won't hurt anything at all and will take up all of the scratches you put in with the clay bar.

As the other poster mentioned, kneed it frequently and make sure that you are generous with the lubricant, it should have an emulsifier of some kind in it, that helps with the scratching a lot (very mild soapy water will work if you don't have detailer's finish). Clay gets full of contaminants and needs to be discarded after a few uses as well.

Happy detailing, hit me up if you have any specific questions.
 

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If you have good buffer (they can be bought on amazon [chinese] now for $45) with a yellow wool pad or a black 3m foam pad you can use a lot of fine polishes and waxes to follow up your claybar job. I would recommend getting a more agressive clay from a painters supply shop (they will sell different grades too, even among the professional clays) and polish the car with a real polisher with a mild polishing agent on a yellow wool pad (white ones are usually more agressive). The walmart orbital buffers just don't cut it, and aren't that much cheaper than the high speed ones you can get on amazon now for cheap. For a novice you really can use one with a yellow pad and a liquid wax as polish (the wool pad has enough abrasion on its own to remove many of the scratches you will encounter) and it won't hurt anything at all and will take up all of the scratches you put in with the clay bar.

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One thing you forgot to mention is with the cheap rotary and wool pads it doesn't take much to burn through the clear at a crease or near seams. Also they are great in the hands of a noob for installing holograms which they won't be able to get out and will have to cover up with a glaze. Only to have them come back once the glaze or wax wears off.

Here is a prime example of a noob, a rotary, a wool pad and a polish... Cost him $400 to have me fix it.

 

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Id say if you're gonna be polishing.. spend the money for a porter cable and really learn how. Its not worth half assing.
Either full ass, or take it to a detail shop and give them the money!
 

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One thing you forgot to mention is with the cheap rotary and wool pads it doesn't take much to burn through the clear at a crease or near seams.
You are right about this, I should have mentioned that any n00b should just flat out stay away from edges with the machine, do them by hand, and take it easy on corners and other high spots.

I still think that any n00b can polish a car with a wool pad and a non-abrasive liquid (a liquid wax), it will be enough to take out the clay scratches and not dangerous enough to really do any harm if they are cautious.

Just my opinion, you are welcome do disagree (and I do think that you are spot on about the edges and corners).
 

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You are right about this, I should have mentioned that any n00b should just flat out stay away from edges with the machine, do them by hand, and take it easy on corners and other high spots.

I still think that any n00b can polish a car with a wool pad and a non-abrasive liquid (a liquid wax), it will be enough to take out the clay scratches and not dangerous enough to really do any harm if they are cautious.

Just my opinion, you are welcome do disagree (and I do think that you are spot on about the edges and corners).
Actually now I see the base for your methode... in your other post you said you worked in a shop but that was 10 years ago .. ... back then thats about all there was to use ... times have changed. Drastically ...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The clay bar i used was just the mothers kit for AZ. I also have alot of i guess rust specks on the paint (trunk lid) that come off when i spend ALOT of time running over them with the clay bar. is there another product that works better on these spots?



Thanks Guys.
 

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The clay bar i used was just the mothers kit for AZ. I also have alot of i guess rust specks on the paint (trunk lid) that come off when i spend ALOT of time running over them with the clay bar. is there another product that works better on these spots?



Thanks Guys.
Not really unless you have a PC .. I clay off the roughness and then polish off the stain with the PC .. You could try clay and Meguiars Ultimate Polish by hand ..
 

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One thing you forgot to mention is with the cheap rotary and wool pads it doesn't take much to burn through the clear at a crease or near seams. Also they are great in the hands of a noob for installing holograms which they won't be able to get out and will have to cover up with a glaze. Only to have them come back once the glaze or wax wears off.

Here is a prime example of a noob, a rotary, a wool pad and a polish... Cost him $400 to have me fix it.

OMG hahah thats so horrible I would have been so pissed. I found out about waterspots. All you have to do is wash your car with an acid based cleanser. Works pretty good.
 

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Acid cleanser? Hydrofluoric acid? Toxic and best avoided.
I have been using Griot's Paint Cleaning Clay with good results. It even removed dryed paint overspray from plastic bits without harm. I have had good results using Menzerna 400 compound, and Lake Country orange pads on a Porter Cable after claying. For really stubborn specs, a little Dupli-Color prep spray.
 
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