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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
...edit...

Check out page 3 of my sounddomain page....
http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/316445/1

The color of the vinyl paint is much closer in person than it looks in the flash photo. I'm very happy with the overall results. I'm also glad that I decided to paint them rather than vinyl them.

I used duplicolor aerosol spray in truck bedliner for the texture coat and duplicolor medium grey vinyl spray paint. The shapes were just too weird for me to vinyl without experience.

-Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks JP,

I know that the link works. That's what I use to access my page all the time. They must be having problems or something...

Just to reiterate.... The color is much closer in person. :lol:

Now I just need to vacuum my car!!! :oops: I've been working on these things so long that the rest of my car has been neglected.
 

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Hey no problem at all. I understand how much of a pain it is to make kicks like yours and make them good!

I used to secure my MDF jigs with backstrap but what I use now is ABS plastic and like an SP-30 instant bond 2 part with activator. It is so much easier to use instead of drilling screws into wood and plastic. I also use to take some moldable ABS and make a ring around the speaker to allow it to sit into the kick a little more flush so when you put the speaker grill on it won't look too out of place. Just a couple of my tricks.

I'd really like to check out some close up pics to see the texture, that is such a wonderful idea to use texture paint instead of vinyl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got the idea from some of the guys at carsound forums. Apparently, they love SEM texture spray over there. It's probably much easier to get a uniform texture than the bedliner.

I just hot glude dowels in place. This was good enough for me to secure the mounting ring and stretch cloth over the ring and glass it.

The nice thing about my particular Vifa drivers is that they have a polymer basket, and the mounting flange is made to be surface mounted. If I had recessed them, it would have looked weird. Here's a link to the driver that I used.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=297-354&DID=7

BTW, I could probably do this in 1/10 the time now after all that I've learned. Also, I'm glad I bought a respirator. :weirdo:
-Mark
 

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Looks very cool Mark...but I just know I or one of my kids would stick a foot in it! :D

So what kind of freq down low you getting? And SPL?

Since I built my HT, I'm really feeling the need to upgrade the car...problem is of course $$$$ Looking at DIY stuff.....and since I have a SVS sub in my HT, I love deep CLEAN bass.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not so worried about the driver's side. It's the passenger side I'm worried about. I'm still entertaining mesh grill ideas.

Well, the kicks don't really play low. They are for improving the soundstage. The kicks play mids and midbass. Down to about 100Hz. My single 10" sub handles the lows.

Not sure about SPL. Loud enough for me. I'm more of a sound quality guy.

You don't need much of a subwoofer to play low in a car. I have a single aperiodic 10" sub in the rear deck and it provides more than enough to blend with the midbass and give decent impact.

-Mark
 

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mghunt said:
You don't need much of a subwoofer to play low in a car. I have a single aperiodic 10" sub in the rear deck and it provides more than enough to blend with the midbass and give decent impact.

-Mark
You should rephrase that........You don't need much of a subwoofer to play low in a car IF you have a single aperiodic 10" sub in the rear deck firing right into the cabin and using the rear window for reenforcement!

Dude...that is too cool. Do you have pics of it up anywhere!? Very impressive. How do you seal the trunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Postman said:
You should rephrase that........You don't need much of a subwoofer to play low in a car IF you have a single aperiodic 10" sub in the rear deck firing right into the cabin and using the rear window for reenforcement!
I'm even using the stock rear deck panel. It doesn't really block the bass much at all. I have the sub crossed over at about 60Hz.

Postman said:
Dude...that is too cool. Do you have pics of it up anywhere!? Very impressive. How do you seal the trunk?
I'm working on pics. I used a 1.5" thick MDF baffle, with the sub in the middle. The baffle is bolted to the underside of the rear deck. The sub mounts to the baffle with button head machine screws into T-nuts. I used fiberglass duct board and took layers off until the impedance curve of the sub seemed to flatten out. It plays much lower than the same sub in a small sealed enclosure.

-Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I<3myW8 said:
I'd kick it in. Can't live without my dead pedal.
That's what I thought too. Now that I know they're there, no biggie at all. :) It takes a couple of weeks to get used to them. That's why I'm glad I "waited" a little while to finish them. :lol:

-Mark
 

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Carlos Spicyweiner
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mghunt said:
Postman said:
You should rephrase that........You don't need much of a subwoofer to play low in a car IF you have a single aperiodic 10" sub in the rear deck firing right into the cabin and using the rear window for reenforcement!
I'm even using the stock rear deck panel. It doesn't really block the bass much at all. I have the sub crossed over at about 60Hz.

Postman said:
Dude...that is too cool. Do you have pics of it up anywhere!? Very impressive. How do you seal the trunk?
I'm working on pics. I used a 1.5" thick MDF baffle, with the sub in the middle. The baffle is bolted to the underside of the rear deck. The sub mounts to the baffle with button head machine screws into T-nuts. I used fiberglass duct board and took layers off until the impedance curve of the sub seemed to flatten out. It plays much lower than the same sub in a small sealed enclosure.

-Mark
Impressive. So nothing special to the trunk other then the mounting hardware? What's fiberglass ducting?

You're running Peerless home subs?
 

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I asked because your drivers are rated at 40hz.....and your inclosure can raise or lower that.

Because of room (I use my trunk daily..this is a driver!) and cash I'll probably go with a 10" also. Understand, my HT SVS puts out well over 100db at 16hz! It's a 12"....but 40" tall and tuned at 20Hz. (320W Bash amp too) Now most music don't touch 20Hz (except Church Pipe Organs! Whoa Baby!!!!) but Jimmy's intro in Dazed and Confused....or Pink Floyds Dark Side of the moon......both shake my entire house! :D And movies like U-571, Black Hawk Down, Titan AE, Matrix Revolutions (Machine Voice) have tracks in the 10-11hz range. Something to experience in my HT! Drives my boys nuts and my neighbors run home with huge smiles pleading to they're wifes for toy money! LOL!

And I envision the day in a year or two when I'll put in a Car PC and run 5.1 with DVD's/DVD-Audio/DTS etc... So I want to do a simple but clean and deep sub. I got some studying to do!

Mark....run to Radio Shack and pick up the Analog SPL meter...$40 (Digital one works...but needle is easier to read) In the Bass region is has known errors so you use the correction table on this page:

www.svsubwoofers.com/faq_rscomp.htm

And how to use the Meter

www.svsubwoofers.com/faq.htm#meter

It is a fantastic tool to set up your home and car's sound. Running test tones from a receiver or cd....and using the free version of TrueRTA and a laptop you can connect it to the sound card input and plot all your frequencies...and flatten them out.....that is how you make a killer sound stage from your seated position.

Using it alone you can at least truely balance your system from your seat. Great tool.

I do 70m a day...I need my kick panel too! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Postman said:
Impressive. So nothing special to the trunk other then the mounting hardware? What's fiberglass ducting?
You're running Peerless home subs?
I was running Peerless home subs. The model I got wasn't really up to the task. I put my Clarion/Onkyo 10" sub back in. It has a really low Fs and a midrange value Qts.

The fiberglass duct board that I got is fiberglass compressed into a board about 3/4" thick. They use it for plenums in duct work. It's semi-rigid and is easy to peel layers off if you need less material. I put the fiberglass in front of the driver to provide mechanical resistance to cone movement. Seems to work pretty well. I like the tight overdamped bass sound that extends really low and isn't overbearing. :)

-Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The wiring harness is the OBDII connector that snaps into the back side of the underdash trim. If you notice, the underdash panel isn't in the pic. :)

-Mark
 
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