Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have the exact issue detailed in this 4 year old thread , but it doesn't appear to be getting any replies, so i thought I'd post a new thread.

My 2005 B5.5 has the following symptoms:
On ignition, dashboard incorrectly tells me "luggage compartment open", "driver's door open" (UK, RHD), "rear right door open."
Interior lights stay on throughout the journey when set to be on with doors open.
Door sill/courtesy lights turn OFF with the doors/tailgate closed (indicating that the microswitches in the doors still work).

Tailgate is unable to open electronically, either via the external handle, or the driver's door control. The only way in is manually with the key.

In addition, central locking with the key does not work, but unlocking works fine. I can centrally lock the doors using the driver's door control.


I've pulled the carpet up and there is definite water ingress in the passenger (UK) footwell. CCM box appears bone-dry.


My thinking was that for the driver's door, rear right, and tailgate to fail, there must be a common connection that I can check first. Obviously it will be a good idea to inspect all of the wiring harness for potential other issues (I have an airbag code 01222 that I suspect is also due to water-damaged wiring), but I wanted to be sure I could locate the actual fault causing this before I started the repair work. From what I can tell from here http://vwts.ru/electro/wd_p_99.pdfand here, there are 4 wires that are common to all four doors. Two are supply lines, and seeing as the rest of the door functions (lights, windows, central unlock) still work, I presume I'm looking for the orange/brown and orange/green (K-can?) lines?

My question, though, is how does the CCM know which of the doors is open if there is a signal sent on two common connectors? Prior to looking into this, I'd assumed that the CCM would have 5 pins for sensing which door was open/closed. I'm completely confused as to how a door open signal from one door would differ from another!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
I did see your other post, but was not interested in trying to sort out one set of issues from another.
With an issue like this jumping on another thread causes confusion.

You haven't mentioned the remote, what does it do ?
Does it lock all doors ?
Does it unlock all doors ?

The CAN Bus communicates with digital data, and each door has its own digital code.
Note: The Orange/Brown wires connect to a Black wire, and the Orange/Green wires connect to a Yellow wire, these wires connect to the CCM.

Check for broken or corroded wires, faulty switches, and cracked solder joints.


NOTE: The car in this DIY is UK RHD. (the CCM is always on LHS)
VW Passat CCM harness repair | HeadFUZZ

This thread attempts to bring together all the problems regarding water ingress and their solutions.
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/61-b5-information-base/230249-water-ingress-solutions.html


Front Door Lock (Rear doors are similar)
You should lower the window into the service position (2"-3" open) before you disconnect the battery.
No need to remove the window completely, just tape it up securely. (Put paper/plastic over top of door to protect paint)

Door Lock Mechanism Repair (With Pics) (Modified copy from taligentx.com: Collections)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7q6e8n9681nfcex/Door Lock Mechanism Repair.docx?dl=0
Also check the wiring and connectors between the doors and pillars.

All Doors
Additional information on the "puddle light/door open switch".
Stupid door Switch!! $3 Fix!!! - TDIClub Forums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ah thanks. I realised after I posted that it must've been a digital signal. Just seemed overly complicated for a simple open/closed signal though!

Sorry, I should've made myself clearer in my OP, the remote unlocks all four doors (presumably boot too, although as mentioned, the electric buttons don't actually allow it to be popped), but doesn't do anything when trying to lock or enable the alarm. I did succeed yesterday in once getting it to lock with the remote by having some combination of doors open/closed, but then the alarm would keep going off periodically.

As this is most likely due to water ingress, I've been stumped in the past at getting to the tray under the battery by a completely seized wiper arm - WD40 etc does no good. Is there an alternative way to remove the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, now I'm really stumped. The splices for the two K-CAN lines just before entering the CCM box were corroded, so cut back and resoldered these. Now when I start the car, the light is intermittently coming on. I don't think it's my soldering as I get the same errors as before, checked continuity etc. (plus I'm an electronic engineer. Not to say we don't make mistakes, but I know to double check my work).
Wires have all been visually inspected, I've been over the CCM circuitboard, and there doesn't seem to be any issues there.

I can't get the tailgate release in the driver's door to work at all. Neither will the button on the tailgate, or the remote unlock it. Also, whenever the "luggage compartment open" message occurs, the car now locks itself too!


Really not sure what to check next tbh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Also- I've just noticed that the tailgate doesn't appear to be locking at all. This might be why the driver's switch for unlocking it doesn't respond.

I'm now wondering if maybe there is a fault in just the tailgate, but the error signal is somehow causing the ccm to say all 3 doors are open? Am I right in saying that the tailgate also has its own logic circuit somewhere close by as the doors do? If so, where is it? I can't seem to see anything like the one that's attached to the door cards. I've glanced behind the access panels for the rear lights but can't see anything. What I'm really looking for is the orange K-can leads to check continuity from one end to the other, but I can't find it!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
Ok, now I'm really stumped. The splices for the two K-CAN lines just before entering the CCM box were corroded, so cut back and resoldered these. Now when I start the car, the light is intermittently coming on. I don't think it's my soldering as I get the same errors as before, checked continuity etc. (plus I'm an electronic engineer. Not to say we don't make mistakes, but I know to double check my work).
Wires have all been visually inspected, I've been over the CCM circuitboard, and there doesn't seem to be any issues there.

I can't get the tailgate release in the driver's door to work at all. Neither will the button on the tailgate, or the remote unlock it. Also, whenever the "luggage compartment open" message occurs, the car now locks itself too!


Really not sure what to check next tbh.
What light are you talking about ?


Use a pulley/bearing puller to remove the wiper arms, but you should be able to remove the battery without removing them.
The harness in the plastic housing across in front of the battery can be carefully lifted off to provide more room.




In addition, central locking with the key does not work, but unlocking works fine. I can centrally lock the doors using the driver's door control.
Sorry, I should've made myself clearer in my OP, the remote unlocks all four doors (presumably boot too, although as mentioned, the electric buttons don't actually allow it to be popped), but doesn't do anything when trying to lock or enable the alarm. I did succeed yesterday in once getting it to lock with the remote by having some combination of doors open/closed, but then the alarm would keep going off periodically.
This invokes the question. Does it lock all doors when using the key in the driver door lock ?


Get a full scan with VCDS (or dealer) and post all of the codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Use a pulley/bearing puller to remove the wiper arms, but you should be able to remove the battery without removing them.
The harness in the plastic housing across in front of the battery can be carefully lifted off to provide more room.
Thanks. I'll give this a go once I've fixed the wiring issues. I saw that on one write up for clearing the battery compartment, but most guides remove the top cowl under the wiper arms, so I wasn't sure that it could be done.


This invokes the question. Does it lock all doors when using the key in the driver door lock ?
Unfortunately, I can't test this as the previous owner heard a rumour that the windows could be wound down simply by inserting a screwdriver into the lock and rotating. He disabled the door lock by jamming junk in there. :banghead:

Right, so after sitting in the drive for 48 hours with the carpet up to dry out, I can't get the intermittent "luggage compartment open" message to occur at all now (a good thing?). The only problem is that the trunk switch in the driver's door has no effect! I guess I can trace this back to the CCM and check whether the switch is working at that end, as removing the door cards is my least favourite job!

Get a full scan with VCDS (or dealer) and post all of the codes.
I guess I need a full copy of VCDS for this right? I have VCDS-lite using a knock-off cable, and running through a virtual machine on my mac. I can do engine module scans no problem, but the comfort module didn't respond. I really don't have time to troubleshoot the crappy eBay cable setup I have, so looks like I need to find a friendly local VCDS owner, unless this can be done on VCDS-lite?


Finally, as I mentioned in my OP, the other issue I'm having is fault code 01222 - "side airbag sensor wrong or incorrect setting." I've already tried replacing the sensor to no avail, and from what I've read, incorrect setting indicates more corroded wiring. I think this is likely to be the ground splice. However I have followed the wiring back to where it runs along the centre console edge, but I need to lift more carpet/remove more pieces of trim to follow it further. Does anybody know where the ground splice might occur? I'm assuming this is going to be in the footwell area, but I'd rather not have to remove the whole dash/lift the entire carpet!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,940 Posts
I don't know which ground you are looking for, there are many.
There is one grounding point on the driver front floor and some in the "A" pillar.


VCDS-Lite (unregistered) can scan all the codes that can be scanned by any scanner.
VCDS-Lite (unregistered) will scan all modules one by one, when registered it can scan all modules in one go.
If a module or its CAN Bus is faulty it might not be possible to scan it with any scanner.

The airbag code will need to be cleared, they don't clear when the fault is fixed.

You are just wasting time until you get it scanned.
If your VCDS-Lite is scanning the engine, the cable and VCDS-Lite are most likely working well; and the faults are in the car.
Scan any modules that you can and post all of the codes. (Copy and paste from VCDS)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
2003 PASSAT B5.5 1.8T manual .... The only thing I can contribute is that several years ago my roof skylight drains plugged and water got into the CCM under my driver's side carpet/foot well. Somehow it evaded all the relays and wiring behind the driver's side kick panel. All sorts of mischievous things were going on .... cruse control, locking etc etc. I found the wet carpet and had to cut it along the side of the "hump" to remove it (removed front seat). I opened the outer plastic CCM box (which was not sealed water-tight at factory) and inside all the soldered connections to the actual computer were corroded - some had come apart. I carefully sorted the wire color coded wires and re-soldered all. Did a lot of insulating of the wires and sealed the outer box water tight. Everything worked fine thereafter; just had to clear the "faulty air bag' signal. The CCM pack under the passenger side (which I guess exists) apparently was not a problem. Gotta keep those roof drains clear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Yes, ive got the manual, on my right side i only have a placeholder made of some kind of styrofoam instead of the TCM.

I have ordered a new CCM, when i get it im going to repogram and install it. Even though im pretty sure the problem is bad wiring or splices that cause short to ground issues.
These are the erros i'm getting as per now:



Any ideas?

Edit: It was wet under the carpet, however the CCM don't seem to be affected, no corrosion on it, it was also bone-dry when i opened the clamshell. Some of the wiring and splices have been soaked though. I have cut open some splices, but no sign of corrosion or bad contact, i seem to have the new type of splices with glue or something inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
The codes 01362 and 00947 both indicate either wires shorted to ground, or a switch shorted closed, not a CCM issue. The switch could be either the remote release on the door, or a switch in the latch itself. In normal operation, the switches connect the appropriate CCM input to ground to cause the CCM to release the trunk/hatch; yours is apparently grounded all the time.

The year of your Passat and whether it's a sedan or wagon will determine the exact wiring and wire colors, so let us know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
The codes 01362 and 00947 both indicate either wires shorted to ground, or a switch shorted closed, not a CCM issue. The switch could be either the remote release on the door, or a switch in the latch itself. In normal operation, the switches connect the appropriate CCM input to ground to cause the CCM to release the trunk/hatch; yours is apparently grounded all the time.

The year of your Passat and whether it's a sedan or wagon will determine the exact wiring and wire colors, so let us know.
Hi!

This makes sense, because i recently replaced the microswitch in my trunk for the light, the light in the trunk turns on and off when opening and closing though.
The car is a 2005 sedan.

Edit: I tried disconnecting all the wires from the boot latch/lock mechanism, i still have the errors, so this could mean it's possible that it is a wiring issue from the latch to the ccm?
I also have testet a new release mechanis(actuator)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Updates!

Got my "new" used CCM today, would not really spend time replacing it because i didn't think it would help.

But after i replaced it, no doors are open!
Now i just have to get the coding from my old to the new one, because the CCM is from a RHD, and my car is LFD. So doors are opposite in the display, and my remote does not work.
I'm going to google abit, if no one wants to give me some input, or tips along the way :)

Edit: Coding the keys was easy, now i just cant find out how to change from RHD to LHD, or disable alarm(i get an error, and dont have alarm) where do i find these in VCDS? All i could find was power windows options with or without selective locking.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top