CEL, codes P0303 and P1136 - diagnosis?

PCV is definitely the culprit, #2 in below diagram is busted where it enters T housing - breather hose and T are completely separated:



Unfortunately I couldn't get the one-time clamps off before I had to abort given amt of daylight left. While trying from above with a long flat-head, I busted the only check valve that has a 3rd prong - right above suction jet pump. Even though I ordered a couple of back-up check valves...broke the only unique one. VW gods shat on me.

Since I'm replacing 2, 5, 6A and 10...I could put that whole line together before installing, then I'd only have 2 clamps to tighten. Which means it's only those 2 clamps I have to remove.

Any advice on strategy/angle to remove clamps from right side of T housing and bleeder valve (6A leading to 27) would be much appreciated. Fu#$ me if I have gotten this far and still have to pay a shop. Soonest I can try again is next Sunday.

Yeah, knew that from replacing check valves previously. Much tougher on something that's beneath the manifold with extremely limited space for leverage, I used a very short flat-head and eventually finagled an angle where I could put force behind it. Cut my hands up pretty decently, finally removed clamp...only to find out the t-housing is basically melted to the pipe it's connected to.

Considered buying a dremel, but honestly I'm not quite sure how #2 is removed anyways...probably best to have someone who's done it before handle. Left PZ a voicemail.

Edit: PZ indicates razor blade should do the trick on that rubber T housing, think I'll try box cutter - one more DIY attempt next weekend! Also, the retaining spring that holds #2 in place is apparently very similar to the CTS clip.

Also, tip for others - if replacing at least 2, 5 & 6A...the only clamp you have to fret over is right side of #5 (T housing). For the other line coming off PCV valve going to 24, much easier to just remove top clamp on that first section of breather hose where it meets check valve (instead of trying to get bottom clamp off where it connects to PCV valve). Easily accessed from above, suggest having a replacement check valve on hand if it's original one.

Bumpdate. Compiling info hiyah for PCV parts on '04 1.8T AWM. Total online parts $109 including Y suction pump, plus another $5 or so for replacement clamps from hardware store.

Obvious forewarning: No guarantee this fixes all your issues with these codes, and work at your own risk - cut my hand up pretty decently just removing one-time clamps in the limited space.

No need to remove the intake manifold, you can reach everything if you move coolant tank out of the way and basically lay on the engine - reach everything with your right hand.

Pertinent diagram:



PCV parts list I ordered, click p/n for link:

#2: Plastic breather hose from oil filter bracket area - 06A 103 213 F
#3: O-ring for that breather hose - N 904 673 01
#5: Rubber t-housing - 06A 103 247 - Probably melted to metal pipe on opposite side of #2's connection, cut it out with razor blade/box cutter
#6A: PCV bleeder valve - 06B 103 245 (note this is out of stock atm, when I bought was $12.49)
#10: Rubber breather hose from bleeder valve to intake manifold - 06B 103 224C

2, 5, 6A and 10 is the whole line changed out. 7, 8, 11, 12, and 27 are simply one-time clamps you'll need to swap with similar sized screw-on clamps. Note hose 10 was still in good condition - I kept old one just in case it's ever needed. Also ordered:

#25: Check valve - 058 905 291K - 2 count simply b/c I hadn't replaced all mine, was sure to use both

Not pictured in the diagram is Y suction pump, 058 133 753B - image:



Borrowing from hatman's thread, this pic has the Y suction pump - it's right beneath the only check valve in view and 3rd prong leads away from you. If you haven't replaced that check valve too, be sure to include in your check valve count:



Removing #2's retaining clip (aka #4): Need a really long flat-head screwdriver, coolant tank moved. You can see shape of the clip on side of hose when looking down through the manifold's holes. From that top angle, wedge long flat-head between clip and hose...perhaps grab edge of clip from the right with pliers (I tried doing just that without screwdriver, not enough leverage to pull it off). Unfortunately no good way to get a pic of this, very small hole for visibility from the top of manifold.

Suggestion: Only one-time clamp you absolutely have to remove from awkward angle is #8 on the right side of T going to metal pipe (opposite from #2). No need to remove #27 clamp, tough access - simply remove #28 on opposite side of that line, it's up above and much easier to maneuver. After #4 clip is removed, you can just remove entire line from 2 to 10 and install replacement line...why bother with more one-time clamps than you have to?

Hopefully that covers it, PM me with any questions and I'll help best I can. Note PZ finished this for me, I got clamp off t-housing going to metal pipe (opposite side of #2)...just didn't have long flat-head to remove #2's clip.