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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·

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Replied to your PM. A MAF flow test is also a good idea. If your system can't run one, mine can (I just have to figure out how!). When I had my 1.8T, my P1136 was from a bad MAF.

If you need to swing by this weekend, give me a call. PM if you don't have my #.
 

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Hmm, thread with similar codes: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/74-volkswagen-passat-b6-discussion/303393-rpm-up-down.html

VAGguy might have nailed it, presume PCV bleeder valve is same valve they reference? When pinching that line, should I expect to hear hissing?

Also, presume I should go ahead and swap out all PCV components while at it if that's the culprit? Don't want to deal with this BS ever again if I can avoid it.
When you pinch that line, the idle should improve and any hissing should stop. Not to say the idle will be bad in the first place, but it may sound a little off. Listen at the tail pipe first. It may give out inconsistent puff puff sound instead of a low rhythmic rumble or purr.

Right. If my pcv goes, I'm getting the kit from 034 and doing it all. Same for my amb a4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Replied to your PM. A MAF flow test is also a good idea. If your system can't run one, mine can (I just have to figure out how!). When I had my 1.8T, my P1136 was from a bad MAF.

If you need to swing by this weekend, give me a call. PM if you don't have my #.
Thanks Paul. Was down in Houston this past weekend (in someone else's car). Gone again this upcoming weekend to Austin - any chance you have time throughout the week (if yours does MAF flow test)? Still haven't hooked my cable up, no clue what its capabilities/limitations are.

Pretty sure I am going to replace key PCV parts regardless of MAF status. When researching I saw way too many threads of 1.8's with a lot less miles having clogged PCV.

Right. If my pcv goes, I'm getting the kit from 034 and doing it all. Same for my amb a4.
I'm iffy on 034, solely b/c of the extra line going to back of valve cover it doesn't seem to support on 03+ AWM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
PCV is definitely the culprit, #2 in below diagram is busted where it enters T housing - breather hose and T are completely separated:



Unfortunately I couldn't get the one-time clamps off before I had to abort given amt of daylight left. While trying from above with a long flat-head, I busted the only check valve that has a 3rd prong - right above suction jet pump. Even though I ordered a couple of back-up check valves...broke the only unique one. :( VW gods shat on me.

Since I'm replacing 2, 5, 6A and 10...I could put that whole line together before installing, then I'd only have 2 clamps to tighten. Which means it's only those 2 clamps I have to remove.

Any advice on strategy/angle to remove clamps from right side of T housing and bleeder valve (6A leading to 27) would be much appreciated. Fu#$ me if I have gotten this far and still have to pay a shop. Soonest I can try again is next Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well hell, I finally got clamp off #5 but can't get that t-housing itself off #9. :( So frustrating. Guess I'll have to take it somewhere and see if they'll only uninstall 2 & 5 for me, let me do the rest. Really hate paying someone to just connect everything past that.

If only I had a dremel, would just cut through 5 and be done within couple hours at most. :banghead:
 

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The easiest way to get those clamps off is to find the flat end and pry it up with a super small screwdriver or knife blade.

Ring Metal Auto part Titanium ring Fashion accessory


See the clamp on the right in the picture?
If you pry that overlapping end away from the rest of the clamp, it releases the little locking tab holding the two parts of the clamp together.
Then the clamp can be removed easily.

Once you do it that way you'll wonder why everyone says these clamps are such a nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Yeah, knew that from replacing check valves previously. Much tougher on something that's beneath the manifold with extremely limited space for leverage, I used a very short flat-head and eventually finagled an angle where I could put force behind it. Cut my hands up pretty decently, finally removed clamp...only to find out the t-housing is basically melted to the pipe it's connected to. :(

Considered buying a dremel, but honestly I'm not quite sure how #2 is removed anyways...probably best to have someone who's done it before handle. Left PZ a voicemail.

Edit: PZ indicates razor blade should do the trick on that rubber T housing, think I'll try box cutter - one more DIY attempt next weekend! Also, the retaining spring that holds #2 in place is apparently very similar to the CTS clip.

Also, tip for others - if replacing at least 2, 5 & 6A...the only clamp you have to fret over is right side of #5 (T housing). For the other line coming off PCV valve going to 24, much easier to just remove top clamp on that first section of breather hose where it meets check valve (instead of trying to get bottom clamp off where it connects to PCV valve). Easily accessed from above, suggest having a replacement check valve on hand if it's original one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Really hate my car atm. Couldn't get the retaining spring off #2, so I didn't even bother trying to cut out the T-housing. Tried with a few different pairs of pliers, kept slipping off. Hopefully PZ to the rescue, so pissed I have to pay someone else to do this after 6+ hours of my time was wasted. :(
 

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Pliers won't work. If you haven't gotten it yet, try a super long flat bladed screw driver to pry it out. Assuming you are talking about the metal clip holding #2 into the filter bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I didn't have screwdriver long enough, hence attempt with pliers. :p

PZ finished this up for me while doing some other work, and yeah he just used a super long flat-head. Think it took him an hour or less since I already removed one-time clamp for t-housing and metal pipe (seemed like the hardest part of this ordeal). But previously it took me at least a couple hours to diagnose, research, gather p/n's and order.

If anybody is interested I can bumpdate with p/n's & links since there aren't any formal kits outside 034motorsport's - AutoHauzAZ had everything I needed. Only reason I didn't go with 034 is the metal billet valve doesn't accommodate line going to valve cover - line was added to mitigate sludge.
 

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if you could put up a parts list, that would be great. Thinking of buying the 034 kit and reusing my valve and extra hose. I want to compare pricing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Bumpdate. Compiling info hiyah for PCV parts on '04 1.8T AWM. Total online parts $109 including Y suction pump, plus another $5 or so for replacement clamps from hardware store.

Obvious forewarning: No guarantee this fixes all your issues with these codes, and work at your own risk - cut my hand up pretty decently just removing one-time clamps in the limited space.

No need to remove the intake manifold, you can reach everything if you move coolant tank out of the way and basically lay on the engine - reach everything with your right hand.

Pertinent diagram:



PCV parts list I ordered, click p/n for link:

#2: Plastic breather hose from oil filter bracket area - 06A 103 213 F
#3: O-ring for that breather hose - N 904 673 01
#5: Rubber t-housing - 06A 103 247 - Probably melted to metal pipe on opposite side of #2's connection, cut it out with razor blade/box cutter
#6A: PCV bleeder valve - 06B 103 245 (note this is out of stock atm, when I bought was $12.49)
#10: Rubber breather hose from bleeder valve to intake manifold - 06B 103 224C

2, 5, 6A and 10 is the whole line changed out. 7, 8, 11, 12, and 27 are simply one-time clamps you'll need to swap with similar sized screw-on clamps. Note hose 10 was still in good condition - I kept old one just in case it's ever needed. Also ordered:

#25: Check valve - 058 905 291K - 2 count simply b/c I hadn't replaced all mine, was sure to use both

Not pictured in the diagram is Y suction pump, 058 133 753B - image:



Borrowing from hatman's thread, this pic has the Y suction pump - it's right beneath the only check valve in view and 3rd prong leads away from you. If you haven't replaced that check valve too, be sure to include in your check valve count:



Removing #2's retaining clip (aka #4): Need a really long flat-head screwdriver, coolant tank moved. You can see shape of the clip on side of hose when looking down through the manifold's holes. From that top angle, wedge long flat-head between clip and hose...perhaps grab edge of clip from the right with pliers (I tried doing just that without screwdriver, not enough leverage to pull it off). Unfortunately no good way to get a pic of this, very small hole for visibility from the top of manifold.

Suggestion: Only one-time clamp you absolutely have to remove from awkward angle is #8 on the right side of T going to metal pipe (opposite from #2). No need to remove #27 clamp, tough access - simply remove #28 on opposite side of that line, it's up above and much easier to maneuver. After #4 clip is removed, you can just remove entire line from 2 to 10 and install replacement line...why bother with more one-time clamps than you have to?

Hopefully that covers it, PM me with any questions and I'll help best I can. Note PZ finished this for me, I got clamp off t-housing going to metal pipe (opposite side of #2)...just didn't have long flat-head to remove #2's clip.
 
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