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EPC and Check engine light on, won't start

I have a 2001 2.8 4motion. I went to drive the car today and it would not accelerated over 2200 rpm's. It acted like I had a rev limiter at 2200. It would kick back in at 2k and die again at 2200. I drove it home parked it in the garage and now it cranks but will not start. EPC light is on as well as check engine light. The fuel pump has been whining a bit lately but after reading on this forum about what the EPC light means I wouldn't think it is that. Any help appreciated. You should also know that i just purchased this car from my grandmother, who ran it through a fence and a cow pasture then down into a shallow creek. Ran fine the past couple months and was about to get the body work done on it. Could something just now be corroding and giving me problems? Thanks
 

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^^ 2x


I hate bumping old threads, but; when you buy your new engine speed sensor, Do Not Go Cheap!

I did. I bought the one from GermanyAutoParts.com and it lasted for only 3 months. So, I thought it was the wiring or something else and spun my wheels about it. Bit the bullet and bought from ECS Tuning there mid to top of the line sensor and it is a hugh difference.

The sensor is a magnet. The old one barley help on to the hood of the car, but the one from ECS was twice as strong. I am sure I should have an issue for a while now.


$0.02
I just ordered one from ECS tuning for my '00 B5 1.8T Manual
 

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IMG_5898.jpg

This is the speed sensor?
 

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The sensor shown in the bottom pic is the ESS.
OK thanks. BTW the top pick is where the bottom pic plugs in which is below/behind the coolant reservoir.

is the speed sensor located near the sensor pictured?

also what is an ESS?
 

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ESS = "Engine Speed Sensor" (Crank Position Sensor)
The ESS is the sensor in the second pic.
If you don't know what it is, why did you order one ?
 

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ESS = "Engine Speed Sensor" (Crank Position Sensor)
The ESS is the sensor in the second pic.
If you don't know what it is, why did you order one ?
i purchased it because I was having some of the same symptoms described in this post as well as others in the forum. I just didn't put ESS together as most wer referring to it as the crank position sensor or just speed sensor. Additionally it was the least expensive repair I could make in the effort to remedy my EPC light issue. So to assure I'm clear the part pictured is (engine speed sensor or crank position sensor)?
 

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I'll post results of the install once ECS sends the part. FYI if you order multiple parts from them at the same time they won't ship [not even the on-hand parts] until all of the parts are in stock.
 

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Update: I replaced the ESS and the car started up. I drove it for about 2 days and now the EPC light flashes on every now and they and the car jerks. Is there a fuse/relay somewhere I need to check? Now I'm also getting a P0604 code. Any help anyone?
 

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I had a similar issue happen to me recently. My 1.8 GLS suddenly died while I was sitting at a red light. Battery light and CEL came on right before and then it wouldn't accelerate. Turned it off and tried to start the car again, nothing. Someone jumped my battery for me and I was able to get it home, but the EPC light stayed on, and I still had numerous electronics working despite the car thinking the battery wasn't functioning properly.

I ended up ordering a Bosch replacement ESS (crank position sensor technically). Just put it in yesterday, car started with no problems and has been running fine.

If anyone else ever has this issue, and wants to do the repair themselves, it's definitely true that you DON'T have to drain the oil or remove the oil filter. I was able to reach it by just disconnecting the coolant reservoir and reaching down and behind the oil filter with a 10mm socket.

Hope that helps.
 

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Well I'm about to replace the battery as it's dead since I took so long to replace the part but I'll let you know once completed ( hopefully today...lol)
 

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Started right up, so we'll see in a few days if it lasts. ( No codes yet either, knock on wood)
 

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!! I NEED HELP !!!
My 2002 VW Passat wont crank and wont start since 3/28/19. i drove my car 50miles to work, and at the end of my shift i tried to start it and it wouldnt crank or start. so i push started it to advanced auto from my job at the NAVY Depo where i work, and they pulled a code P0688. Which the pocket scanner defined as "Module/ Powertrain control module power relay sense circuit / open. So i took my car to the dealer last because im not an auto electrician and assumed they would find the issue ASAP. The dealer has had my car since 4/1/19 until present and they still dont know what is wrong with my car. i spike to them today asking them to close my car up and that i am coming to get it. they told me they checked the ECM, the starter and several wires which is vague... they also said they jumped a relay called J484 "relay 484" and the car cranked but didnt start. i am picking my car up tomorrow... but need help, has anyone else had a problem like this and able to help me!
 

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In many cases, it's a shorted wire in the coil pack harness (1.8T). It can be a blown fuse or a bad ECU relay as well. If the car ran when jumped, it should not be a bad fuse or relay, but that is what the code is for. Perhaps the relay has bad solder at one of the joints inside and fails intermittently. I had that problem on my 1.8T and it usually failed when hot. The car would start when cold.
 

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This reminds me of a frustrating troubleshooting episode with my wife's old Audi 5000 Turbo, which occasionally would not start due to the fuel pump not running. I checked the fuel pump relay contacts, which were dirty, but cleaning didn't fix the intermittent problem. That car's FP relay was inside the engine compartment, and being a pre-OBDll car, had a rudimentary fault code system which involved putting a spare fuse into a socket on the relay housing. This would also cause the relay to click and run the pump, but one time it just clicked, without the pump turning on. I tapped on the relay cover, and the pump started up. Magnifier inspection of the relay's little circuit board revealed broken and Oxidized solder joints. Fresh solder and flux solved that one. Evidently, the atmosphere in the engine compartment led to the dirty contacts, which became like resistors, which then cooked the solder repeatedly until those joints had no strength.
 

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I had many issues with my 5000 Turbo. It would not start when warm. Hit starter, sometimes worked, sometimes not. Pulled and checked starter, it's good. Checked wiring and found corrosion about 24" up the positive lead, inside the insulation.
 
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ok! i am going to get my car from them today.... and check wiring from starter, fuses and relays under the hood next to the ecu. and this did take place when it got warmer. so hopefully its a solder issue. thank you everyone for your suggestions i will let you all know how i fair.

pray for me lol:thumbup:
 

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i recall before taking it to the dealer fuse 32 had no volts with the key in the on position... and fuse 34 had 1.79 volts in the on position. is anything significant about either one of those?
 

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I had many issues with my 5000 Turbo. It would not start when warm. Hit starter, sometimes worked, sometimes not. Pulled and checked starter, it's good. Checked wiring and found corrosion about 24" up the positive lead, inside the insulation.
I liked this because I have seen this happen more than once, two geographical areas "rust belt" and warm coastal areas. So decieving in nature,no pun intended.
 
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