Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I Recently bought a 2001 facade the 6 2.8 leader from the drive manual transmission

The car runs drives perfectly fine everything seems OK until it gets warmed up I don't know that even you do with it but the coral never said itself off usually until reaches a 190゚ after that your guess is as good as mine as to when the car decided to turn self off if I'm on the freeway and going in excess of 2000 rpm you can feel it kind a stutter but it won't shut the car off I'm guessing as a safety feature but if I'm driving around town or so down where shift gears it shows a car off if the idle goes below 2000 rpm the even bigger problem is it doesn't start backup right away it takes an hour hour and a 1/2 before I can start the car again usually after the temperature gauge goes all the way down to 0 I have been able started sometime before I get 0 I don't know the temperature the car as a to do it is roblem any advice would be greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I Recently bought a 2001 facade the 6 2.8 leader from the drive manual transmission

The car runs drives perfectly fine everything seems OK until it gets warmed up I don't know if that even has do with it but the car never shuts itself off usually until reaches a 190゚ after that your guess is as good as mine as to when the car will decided to turn itself off if I'm on the freeway and going in excess of 2000 rpm you can feel it kind stutter but it won't shut the car off I'm guessing as a safety feature but if I'm driving around town or slow down to shift gears it shuts the car off,if the idle goes below 2000 rpm. THe even bigger problem is it doesn't start backup right away it takes an hour hour and a 1/2 before I can start the car again usually after the temperature gauge goes all the way down to 0 I have been able to get it started sometimes before it's at, zero but I don't know the if temperature of the car has anything to do with the problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have already replaced the coolant temp. sensor.
Some words of wisdom I've gotten and will be trying over the next few days. Then throttle body. Was told that when clogged up will work fine when cold but when warm can cause similar issues.
 

·
2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
Joined
·
23,586 Posts
I would suggest you do some cleanup on the wording in your post. Your speech recognition app needs some work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,634 Posts
I would start with checking the fuel pump. See if it runs after the car shuts down by using a 12v supply. It's in the trunk, under the carpet. Remove the cover (3 screws I think) and attach power to the leads. You can also try to put your ear or hand over it and see if it runs when someone tries to start the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks when trying to start the car after the fule pump is not getting power.
That's one of the way I know it's going to start after I can hear the pump.
 

·
2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
Joined
·
23,586 Posts
Will do, thank you
These tiny phones and big hands dont mesh well.
Sorry, glad you took it as constructive criticism. It was so hard to read, I couldn’t make much sense out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I have had this happen with a vehicle, out of nowhere it would just shut off and when trying to restart it wouldn’t turn back over and after sitting for a few it would finally start up again, at first it would only happen once in awhile but as time went on it would happen multiple times a day. So I busted out the multimeter and started testing sensors and it turned out to be a bad knock sensor. never even got a code, just crapped out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,123 Posts
OP, a common failure with these cars is the engine speed sensor (ESS), aka crankshaft position sensor. The sensors tend to fail intermittently, maybe temperature related. Since it's intermittent and there's no other sensor for the ECM to compare it to, it often doesn't set a code.

The ECM requires the ESS signal on starting to know the engine is spinning before it energizes the fuel pump and coils, so no ESS signal gives you a crank, no start. Likewise, if the ESS signal goes away while the engine is running, the ECM shuts off fuel and spark, assuming the engine has stopped. Of course, if it wasn't stopped, it will be almost immediately!

The easiest test is if you get a crank/no start, then crank for 7 seconds continuously. After 5 seconds the ECM goes in to a limp mode and turns on fuel and spark, despite the lack of ESS signal. The engine will start and run, but idle will be a bit high and the EPC light will be on.

If that's your issue, the ESS isn't too bad to change. Search the forum; note it differs a bit 1.8T vs V6.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
327 Posts
OP, a common failure with these cars is the engine speed sensor (ESS), aka crankshaft position sensor. The sensors tend to fail intermittently, maybe temperature related. Since it's intermittent and there's no other sensor for the ECM to compare it to, it often doesn't set a code.

The ECM requires the ESS signal on starting to know the engine is spinning before it energizes the fuel pump and coils, so no ESS signal gives you a crank, no start. Likewise, if the ESS signal goes away while the engine is running, the ECM shuts off fuel and spark, assuming the engine has stopped. Of course, if it wasn't stopped, it will be almost immediately!

The easiest test is if you get a crank/no start, then crank for 7 seconds continuously. After 5 seconds the ECM goes in to a limp mode and turns on fuel and spark, despite the lack of ESS signal. The engine will start and run, but idle will be a bit high and the EPC light will be on.

If that's your issue, the ESS isn't too bad to change. Search the forum; note it differs a bit 1.8T vs V6.
Thank you for the education.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,256 Posts
Remove the cover (3 screws I think) and attach power to the leads.
If you try this, be sure that the 12V power is connected to the outside 2 pins of the 4 pin fuel tank connector, after removing the wiring harness plug. Positive 12V to the pin for the green wire (with yellow stripe?) and negative to the pin which connects to the brown wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok so question, is it possible for the fule pumpnrelay to act backwards? It would seem that when the key is in the on position I have no volts at the pump. Then when the key is turned over trying to start cranking I'm getting about 11 volts then when I let off the key and ranking back to no volts at the fule pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Also Ohm (not sure spelled right) fule pump with a 1.1 1 reading. Then put volt meter on wires of harness to the plug for fule pump but didnt have it plugged in. Still no volts at turn of key volts when cranking, no volts after attempting to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
The fuel pump is controlled through the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECU. When you attempt to start the ECU only turns on the fuel pump (through the relay) for a few seconds (2-3 seconds) . The fuel pump will then only turn on when the engine starts OR after an extended period of time programmed within the ECU, this is to prevent I believe flooding. To test fuel pump and its dedicated wiring, turn key on, (do not attempt to start), then manually squeeze contacts (you will have to carefully remove its cover) of fuel pump relay. This will eliminate or determine in the equation if the fuel pump and its circuit is faulty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
Since the fuel pump and relay has seen their share of service over the past 19 years and extended mileage I believe the odds are high that possibly the relay contacts are pitted and causing intermittent failure or the fuel pump is failing (not uncommon) considering age/mileage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
So update on the car, I changed out the engine coolent temp sensor and that allowed me to start the car after getting a tow roap tow home from some old family friends. But that didnt stop the intermittent killing the engine. So I later read and also some passer by when I was broke down who yelled to me he has owned 3 passats and to look into the oil pan. So I replaced one of the oil pan sencers and it passed my drive test. Didnt die once. Even after getting home and turning off the car checked and it restarted right away. Even drove further than I have previously when it would kill out on me. So happy and thinking unfixed the car proceeded to detail the interior and then planned to go to the carwash in town. I got to the carwash no problems last night and after pulling into one of the bays realized there was an sign saying scrub brush not working, so I i go to start the car to move to another bay and nope wont let me start but at least turns over. So I check coolent and its low, oil its low, I'm like fuck that much didnt come out of either when I replaced the sensor on each system. So I topped em both off let it cool down and started again. So now I'm going to do a total cooling system flush and bleed system. Same for the oil system and check and make sure sensors are still good and if oil system has more than one sensor. Also found that the hose work for the secondary air intake system was not hooked up correctly. Also am going to pull the throttle body and clean. . O and I also located about half the grounds for the car and sanded them down to get good metal contact, and went through all fuses and all relays to make sure working properly. Thanks to All who helped me in getting this far and I cant stress enough how I wouldn't have gotten this far with out all the input. Never been much of a computer guy, always a bigger Hammer guy and haven't experienced help from people in the form of these threads or ever been on one before and it restores faith in humanity knowing strangers take time from their busy lives to lend some helping advise!! Thank You all!! Riffis the Duffis
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,601 Posts
Just a precautionary note, if you disconnect the cable to the throttle body you will have to "adapt" it to the ECU. And just curious, while driving around and later driving to car wash did you stop and get gas, a fill up ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
What do you meen by "adapt" for throtlebody cleaning? Have you seen my typing? Me an computer's are not exactly the best of friends.
Fill up, no gas put into the car on drive to wash. I kind of remember reading about somthing to do with topping off, if you could refresh or show me a link to that information I'm at the point of no rock left unturned at this point. Thanks in advance. R.T.D.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top