The relay for the turn signals and hazards is the hazard switch. Replace that. switch. Cheap as chips
Can't find the turn signal relay
Hi, I have a 2002 1.9 TDI B5 Estate, and want to replace the relay for the turn and hazard lights which stopped working but fuses are OK. I've looked here: Volkswagen Passat B5 (1997-2005) fuse box and relay diagram and the only listing is for "Exterior lights, gearbox selector handle lights" , nothing specifically for turn or hazard lights. Could it be that they are included as exterior lights and that this is the right relay to change?
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Thank you! I will try that!The relay for the turn signals and hazards is the hazard switch. Replace that. switch. Cheap as chips
Signal switch for left/right signal lamps is in the emergency (red triangle) switch.
Replace that one, is not very difficult.
Good luck!
Replace that one, is not very difficult.
Good luck!
You may have to check the fuse @ location # 2. It’s a mini 10 amp… you said… fuses are ok… nm, I’ll catch up lol
Hi, thanks for everyone's help. Unfortunately the problem has not been solved, so I'm still looking for ideas... (please note that in what follows I say indicators when others might say turn lights)
I bought a new hazard light switch off the internet and it arrived today. So I put it in and when I pressed it in it lit up which I thought was a good sign. But then I can't quite remember the order of events, but at some point the car made a loud buzzing sound as if a warning sound. But at some point it did also make that ticking sound you get when the indicators are working and I think an indicator did flash for a moment. But after about a second or so, it all suddenly went dead, not sure if that was before or after I switched the engine on.
I checked the fuses and both the hazard and the indicator fuses had blown. Now this is where the plot thickens. According to this website (Volkswagen Passat B5 (1997-2005) fuse box and relay diagram) the indicators should have a 10A fuse, and this is what I had put in today just before I tried the new hazard switch and both fuses blew. However, when the indicators failed a couple of years ago I replaced the blown indicator fuse which back then had been a 15A (for some reason) with a 30A as that's all I had available (and a friend had said it would probably be fine). When the indicators failed a few weeks ago, the 30A indicator fuse was intact. However, I then thought I'd replace the 30A indicator fuse with a 10A as that's what the website said. I also replaced the hazards 20A fuse (which had been in until today without blowing) with a 15A , as that's what the website said. So both the correct (according to that website) fuses blew today, which either means they are successfully protecting the hazard switch from a fault somewhere else, or it means they are in fact two low and the website is wrong.
So now I'm wondering, should I try putting the fuses back which had been working fine for several years (ie. the 30A indicators and 20A hazards), on the basis that they had been working fine for several years, and now I've got a new hazard switch maybe it'll all work. On the other hand, if I do that and there's actually a fault which caused the old hazard switch to fail, it might just cause the new hazard switch to fail as it would no longer be protected by the correct fuses.
I'm struggling to sort this out myself as it's an old car and the garages round here either won't look at it and those further afield will charge an absolute fortune which I can't afford.
(Oh, one final thought, which is that a friend said that some components are listed on the internet as being only suitable for cars without a tow hitch. The hazard switch I bought didn't mention tow hitches, but my car has one fitted by it's previous owner, so not sure if that's relevant? The manufacturer part number on the switch I bought matches the number printed on the old switch, so I assumed it would be OK.)
Any thoughts?
Thank you for reading my rather long message!
I bought a new hazard light switch off the internet and it arrived today. So I put it in and when I pressed it in it lit up which I thought was a good sign. But then I can't quite remember the order of events, but at some point the car made a loud buzzing sound as if a warning sound. But at some point it did also make that ticking sound you get when the indicators are working and I think an indicator did flash for a moment. But after about a second or so, it all suddenly went dead, not sure if that was before or after I switched the engine on.
I checked the fuses and both the hazard and the indicator fuses had blown. Now this is where the plot thickens. According to this website (Volkswagen Passat B5 (1997-2005) fuse box and relay diagram) the indicators should have a 10A fuse, and this is what I had put in today just before I tried the new hazard switch and both fuses blew. However, when the indicators failed a couple of years ago I replaced the blown indicator fuse which back then had been a 15A (for some reason) with a 30A as that's all I had available (and a friend had said it would probably be fine). When the indicators failed a few weeks ago, the 30A indicator fuse was intact. However, I then thought I'd replace the 30A indicator fuse with a 10A as that's what the website said. I also replaced the hazards 20A fuse (which had been in until today without blowing) with a 15A , as that's what the website said. So both the correct (according to that website) fuses blew today, which either means they are successfully protecting the hazard switch from a fault somewhere else, or it means they are in fact two low and the website is wrong.
So now I'm wondering, should I try putting the fuses back which had been working fine for several years (ie. the 30A indicators and 20A hazards), on the basis that they had been working fine for several years, and now I've got a new hazard switch maybe it'll all work. On the other hand, if I do that and there's actually a fault which caused the old hazard switch to fail, it might just cause the new hazard switch to fail as it would no longer be protected by the correct fuses.
I'm struggling to sort this out myself as it's an old car and the garages round here either won't look at it and those further afield will charge an absolute fortune which I can't afford.
(Oh, one final thought, which is that a friend said that some components are listed on the internet as being only suitable for cars without a tow hitch. The hazard switch I bought didn't mention tow hitches, but my car has one fitted by it's previous owner, so not sure if that's relevant? The manufacturer part number on the switch I bought matches the number printed on the old switch, so I assumed it would be OK.)
Any thoughts?
Thank you for reading my rather long message!
I had a blown turn signal fuse when I hit some sort of raccoon on the highway (poor guy), on the driver’s side lower portion of the bumper. It destroyed my lower left fog light. After, as I had an aftermarket headlight assembly, I replaced the fog light and headlight with OE equivalent (fog) and OEM headlight and no longer blew fuses. Not sure if it’s related, but could the (often tight) wiring harnesses and/or lighting equipment up front have a wire short?
To Soiux:
Your car most probaby have a shorctcircuit in one of the turn lights or in the connector for towing. This can be easily measured by terminals on the emergency signal switch.
That may be the reason for burning of the original fuses (or being used a towed device with very strong signal lights).
Usualy, fuses are dimensioned as to be enough for extra 2 lamps for towing. Fuse of 30 Amps burned means only a strong shortcut in lamp terminals or a deffective emergency switch.
Check by an instrument if there is a shortcut in lamps or towing connector. Also, better to check the current draw by any of the L/R circuits.
If you don't have a instrument or don't know how to do it, better spend some money and go to a service. It can save your life, accidents by fire from electrical problem are very dangerous.
Your car most probaby have a shorctcircuit in one of the turn lights or in the connector for towing. This can be easily measured by terminals on the emergency signal switch.
That may be the reason for burning of the original fuses (or being used a towed device with very strong signal lights).
Usualy, fuses are dimensioned as to be enough for extra 2 lamps for towing. Fuse of 30 Amps burned means only a strong shortcut in lamp terminals or a deffective emergency switch.
Check by an instrument if there is a shortcut in lamps or towing connector. Also, better to check the current draw by any of the L/R circuits.
If you don't have a instrument or don't know how to do it, better spend some money and go to a service. It can save your life, accidents by fire from electrical problem are very dangerous.
Without a hitch, the indicator fuse should be 5A, and the hazard fuse should be 10A.
With a hitch, the indicator fuse should be 10A, and the hazard fuse should be 15A.
Definitely do not use a 30A fuse, that circuit can't handle 30 amps and in the case of a short it could set the car on fire.
It appears that you have a short in one of the lights, the hitch connector, the indicator switch, the CCM or the wiring.
You need to check those items with a meter.
With a hitch, the indicator fuse should be 10A, and the hazard fuse should be 15A.
Definitely do not use a 30A fuse, that circuit can't handle 30 amps and in the case of a short it could set the car on fire.
It appears that you have a short in one of the lights, the hitch connector, the indicator switch, the CCM or the wiring.
You need to check those items with a meter.
Hi everyone, thanks for all your advice. I did try some different fuses but they all keep blowing, so it's gone beyond what I can do now, so I think I'll just have to look further afield and try to find a garage to fix it. thanks for all the tips anyway, much appreciated!
Hi, just an update to complete this thread. I found a local self-employed mechanic, and he disconnected the tow bar electrics from the main electrics and that seemed to let the indicators work again. So it was probably a fault (eg. short circuit as some of you have suggested) in the tow bar circuit causing the problems. So doing that, and a new hazard lights switch, and problem solved (I hope! it's only been one day so far!)
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