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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I HAVE A 99 1.8T..MY CAR HAS BEEN OUT OF COMISSION FOR ALMOST THREE WEEKS.IT ALL STARTED ONE DAY WHEN I WAS DRIVING AND MY CAR STARTED FEELING LIKE I WAS LOOSING POWER.IT STARTED OFF VERY SUBTLE AND GOT MUCH WORSE BY THE END OF THE DAY....HERE ARE THE SYMPTOMS..WHEN I PRESS THE GAS THE CARS POWER CUTS IN AND OUT.NEXT WHEN I STOP IN TRAFFIC THE CAR FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO STALL AND STALLED ONCE SO FAR.ALSO WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK THE NEEDLE ON THE RPM GAUGE IS MOVING SLIGHTLY UP AND DOWN LIKE BETWEEN 700 AND 900 NOT TOO NOTICABLE BUT ITS MOVING.AND WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED IN TRAFFIC THE NEEDLE IS GOING UP AND DOWN SPARATICLY...HERES WHY I AM LOST..I FIRST TOOK IT TO A INDY SHOP THAT I WAS SENT TO BY THE DEALER I BOUGHT MY CAR FROM(NOT A VW DEALER)THEY HAD THE CAR FOR TWO DAYS AND COULDNT FIGURE IT OUT.NEXT I TOOK IT TO A VW DEALER BY MY HOUSE FOR SOME DIAGNOSTICS,THE FIRST DAY THEY HAD IT THEY CALLED ME AND SAID THERE WAS A FAULT CODE FOR MY THROTTLE BODY.SO I SAID CHANGE IT.THE NEXT DAY THEY CALL ME BACK AND SAY THE CAR STILL FEELS LIKE THE IDLE IS ROUGH AND THEY SUGGESTED I CHANGE THE VACUUM HOSES SO I SAID CHANGE THEM.THEY CALL ME BACK AND SAY THIS HAS NOT FIXED AND ASKED TO KEEP IT ANOTHER DAY.THE NEXT DAY THEY CALL ME AND SAY THE ONLY THING THE MECHANIC COULD FIND WAS A BAD WASTE GATE AND THEY WANT TO PUT IN A NEW TURBO.SO I WENT DOWN TO THE DEALER MY CAR WAS AT AND ASKED TO DRIVE THE CAR TO SEE IF THERE WAS ANY IMPROVEMENT SINCE THEY PUT IN THE THROTTLE BODY,THERE WAS NO IMPROVEMENT SO I TOLD THEM TO PUT THE ORIGINAL THROTTLE BODY BACK IN BECAUSE THAT OBVIOSLY WASNT THE PROBLEM.THEY AGREED BUT STILL INSISTED I NEEDED A NEW TURBO.SO INSTEAD OF PAYING 1500 I TOOK THE CAR OUT OF THERE GOT A USED TURBO AND HAD A GOOD INDY SHOP PUT IT IN,WHICH WAS TODAY.AROUND 5 OCLOCK THE MECHANIC CALLS ME UP AND ASKS IF I WANT SYNTHETIC OIL OR REGULAR OIL AND SAYS HTE CAR IS ALMOST BACK TOGETHER.SO SINCE I WAS SO ANXIOUS TO SEE IF MY BABY WAS FIXED I GOT A RIDE OVER TO THE SHOP AND THE CAR WAS IN THE SHOP RUNNING.THE MECHANIC SAID THE TURBO WENT IN PRETTY EASY AND THAT I COULD TAKE IT FOR A SPIN.SO I GET IN IT AND TAKE IT FOR A RIDE AND NOT MORE THAN 30 SECONDS LATER THE CAR IS ACTING UP AGAIN THE CAR IS STILL SPUTTERING WHEN I HIT THE GAS AND THE IDLE IS ROUGH WHEN I STOP AND THE CAR EVEN STALLED OUT .NOW I AM JUST REALLY UPSET AND I WISH SOMEONE COULD HELP ME OUT ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED...THIS ISNT THE FIRST POST I MADE ABOUT THIS ISSUE .BUT THIS IS WHERE MY CAR IS AT RIGHT NOW.SORRY THE POST IS SO LONG BUT I WANTED TO TELL MY STORY WHICH IS VERY LONG AND VERY UPSETTING FOR A TRUE B5 LOVER THAT HAS ONLY HAD THE CAR FOR 5 MONTHS.CAN SOMEONE PLEASE SEND ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION??HAS ANYONE HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM?? MY NAME IS SHAUN AND I AM FROM LONG ISLAND NEWYORK. :cry: :cry: :???:
 

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Gonna do you a favour & try to get you some replies.......

I have a 99 1.8t.. My car has been out of comission for almost three weeks.
It all started one day when i was driving and my car started feeling like i was loosing power. It started off very subtle and got much worse by the end of the day....
Here are the symptoms:
When i press the gas the cars power cuts in and out. Next when i stop in traffic the car feels like it wants to stall and stalled once so far. Also when the car is in park the needle on the rpm gauge is moving slightly up and down like between 700 and 900 not too noticable but its moving, and when the car is stopped in traffic the needle is going up and down sparaticly...
Heres why i am lost.
I first took it to a indy shop that i was sent to by the dealer I bought my car from (not a vw dealer). They had the car for two days and couldnt figure it out. Next i took it to a vw dealer by my house for some diagnostics. The first day they had it they called me and said there was a fault code for my throttle body so i said change it. The next day they call me back and say the car still feels like the idle is rough and they suggested i change the vacuum hoses so i said change them. They call me back and say this has not fixed and asked to keep it another day. The next day they call me and say the only thing the mechanic could find was a bad waste gate and they want to put in a new turbo.
So i went down to the dealer my car was at and asked to drive the car to see if there was any improvement since they put in the throttle body. There was no improvement so i told them to put the original throttle body back in because that obviosly wasnt the problem. They agreed but still insisted i needed a new turbo.
So instead of paying 1500 i took the car out of there got a used turbo and had a good indy shop put it in which was today. Around 5 oclock the mechanic calls me up and asks if i want synthetic oil or regular oil and says the car is almost back together. Since i was so anxious to see if my baby was fixed i got a ride over to the shop and the car was in the shop running.
The mechanic said the turbo went in pretty easy and that i could take it for a spin.
So i get in it and take it for a ride and not more than 30 seconds later the car is acting up again the car is still sputtering when i hit the gas and the idle is rough when i stop and the car even stalled out .
Now i am just really upset and i wish someone could help me out. Any advice would be much appreciated...this isn’t the first post I made about this issue but this is where my car is at right now. Sorry the post is so long but i wanted to tell my story which is very long and very upsetting for a true b5 lover that has only had the car for 5 months.
Can someone please send me in the right direction??
Has anyone had a similar problem??
My name is shaun and i am from long island New York.
:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
 

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Some thoughts... I don't how the jump was made from a bad throttle body to a bad turbo without checking out a lot of other things. Maybe they were checked and just not reported. Has the car been scanned for codes? Has the CEL ever come on when it is running rough? I don't have an specific suggestions for you, but a few things come to mind that you could check or have your indy check...

1. Vacuum or air leak. I know you said the dealership replaced vacuum line, but they may not have changed all of them. Check all the lines and hoses for cracks and splits, especially the onesthat attach to and are routed around the intake manifold.

2. Possibly bad fuel delivery. Was anything done to check Injectors, FPR, Fuel Pump, replace fuel filter?

3. Possibly bad ICM. You can check it with an ohm meter. Search for the ICM troubleshooting thread in the information forum. BTW... What is the condition of the spark plugs?

4. Possibly bad MAF sensor. Nothing specify here; it is just a highly potential cause of mixture control issues.

I know this kind of problem is frustrating; no one likes spending money on a repair that doesn't fix the car. Keep searching; you'll find the problem.

And please, TURN OF THE CAP LOCK. :eek:

Good Luck.
 

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Could it possibly be an electrical fault. Can't say that i've had anything like this happen to my B5 but a few years back i had a Volvo :oops: and it had some similar symptoms. Loss of power when accelerating, erratic idle and stalling when at rest, although it got to the stage where it stalled every time i stopped.

It took ages to check everything out and just when i thought it was a lost cause someone suggested the electrics and would you believe it the problem was a dodgy connection at the battery - problem solved and car running as well as a Volve can.

Not sure whether this helps or not but after reading your post it just sounded so familiar.

Good Luck!
 

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I had an almost identical problem with my '89 Chrysler Conquest. (What a GREAT car that was, wish I would have kept it!) Turned out to be the vacuum hoses. If that didn't correct your problem though, I'm not sure what kind of gremlin is lurking under your hood?!? :evil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the help..and sorry i had the caps locked i had it like that because i was trying to make the post stand out.(and it did just not what i was thinking)the check engine light never came on..still hasnt.i have a gut feeling maybe fuel pressure or spark plugs myself but on the vag it threww no codes.my mechanic called a little while ago and told me to come down to the shop hopefuly he found somthing!!if not i will tell him what you guys said.but it is strange no cel no codes.just a car that stalls when at a stop and when i give it gas it just hesitates and jumps??i will let you know what happens i hope i can get some answers....
 

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If you have a 99 1.8T with the AEB engine and a rough idle the most likely culprit is the ICM.

Go to the info forum to learn how to check it. If it is bad, then go to www.busdepot.com and pay about $114 for a new one and in about five minutes with only a screw driver it will be replaced and the idle will be fine. You can also get them at www.ecstuning.com.

Do you have a CEL? If you do and it is a misfire then change you ICM, it sits on top of the airbox.

FYI, www.ecstuning.com sells wastegates without the turbo so you could have saved some green by buying just the wastgate and not a whole turbo.
 

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after you chek the icm, btw...how many miles fo you have??


it sound like a problem i had, i've repeated this story many time allready but here it goes, and hopefully this solves your problem:

BTW i had the same symptoms, and: does it do it more when its cold/wet/humid outside? if so this really might be it..........

i've realized that alot of b5 owners (aeb motors) dont realize that the coil packs are 2 components. 1 is the coil pack itself. and 2 connector(the coilpacks manhood) that conect the coil pack to the spark plug.basicaly a 4inch,straight, plug wire.

to get to it: grab the coil pack(with one hand), grab the "manhood"of the coilpack, then twist..... and you'll see what im talking about.

NOTE: look at the spring that makes contact withthe spark plug(at the end of the connector) if its dirty and rusty them you probably need them.

thise connectors part # 058 905 447-c and cost $18-22 at any vw or audi dealer.

have you had a vag diagnosis yet? any cylinder missfire???

if you have over 80-90k miles you might want to change them anyway, mine went out at 100k and i began to feel the symptoms around 80k, i just never could pinpoint the problem, and the "seazures" were rare and minute. but when the connectors began to fail, fail they did.

i remember, at first i thought it was the turbo! too!!!

hope this fixes your problemif not at least helps..........

ALfredo
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok.. went to the shop and my mechanic found some codes.misfire cylinder 1 and the maf threw a code finally a direction to go in.we checked the icm with the instructions i found on this sight and i got no 00.00 so we think the icm is ok.the only weird thing was the rubber piece between the metal part under the icm that fit the metal piece to the air box was kinked.(you cant buy the rubber piece alone)so we left it.i did buy a new maf 80 bucks from vw they now sell them much cheaper.he put that in and i also bought new spark plugs from vw and he put those in too.SO FAR SO GOOD. :) the sad part is new vacuum lines,new turbo,and it turns out it was the maf..to be honest i am very happy to have the car back and now i can focus on modding it instead of taking to every shop in a 10 mile radius of my house.i would like to just state to club b5 members beware of sovereign vw in hicksville n.y.had i listened to them right now i would have a new throttle body 700 bucks and a turbo installed 1500 bucks and it wouldnt have been fixed.again it is sad that i put in a new turbo for no reason but i got it used 200 bucks and the guy put it in 150 bucks so hopefully this one is better.anyway thanks for the advice the quick response and most of all thank God we all have a place where we can turn when our beloved passats let us down....shaun :thumbup:
 

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99blueb5 said:
i did buy a new maf 80 bucks from vw they now sell them much cheaper.he put that in and i also bought new spark plugs from vw and he put those in too.SO FAR SO GOOD. :)
I am having the exact same problem. I had to change the ICM about 1.5 years ago because of a similar problem so I went to check it first, but it looks okay. Next step - Remove and clean the MAF tonight. Hopefully that'll fix it.

It's GREAT having a forum like this to get help from fellow B5ers.

Thanks,
Phill
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dahm car i drove it about 50 miles car was ok...now i am getting a weird noise from the turbo...not the whining you get on acceleration its different it is when i let off the gas its making a zzzzziiiizzzzz sound.this car is making me crazy.i really am considering selling it.it just stinks i finally got a car i like and put rims on it and did some mods and now i just want to get rid of it. :( i think the new turbo is messed up??? :thumbdow:
 

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what about some bad gas? Fuel filter clogged? Maybe even a bad fuel pump. It sounds like a fuel sending problem to me, for no codes to come up. I'm really amazed it will do that and not throw a code. I would start by changing the fuel filter (there's a write up in the Info Forum, and Advanced Auto had one in stock for the car for $15), add some injector cleaner, and possibly some gas condensation remover. If that doesn't work, clean your throttle body with intake cleaner (follow the direction on the bottle). If it is the MAF, go to radio shack and get non-residue electronics cleaner, and follow the MAF cleaning write-up in the Info Forum. Hope you get it figured out.

Maybe the turbo you purchased was bad. You said you bought a used one right? There isn't many reasons to change a turbo, unless it went bad. Turbo's cracking is a common problem with B5 Passat's and A4's.
 

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Alfredo said:
i've realized that alot of b5 owners (aeb motors) dont realize that the coil packs are 2 components. 1 is the coil pack itself. and 2 connector(the coilpacks manhood) that conect the coil pack to the spark plug.basicaly a 4inch,straight, plug wire.
Wow, didn't know that. I checked the coil packs and plugs today and found that there was oil on the upper part of the spark plugs. Is this normal? I cleaned it out, but still get the misfires.

I swapped the coil packs around and lo and behold, the misfires moved too. I narrowed it down to one coilpack and was planning on just replacing it, but now that I see they're two different parts, I'll just buy the connector -I noticed some rust on the bottom of it.
 
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