[wmj259]

Hello,

So my car is complete from doing a head R&R. I just got a CEL a few days ago and I scanned it.

The camshaft position sensor code came up.

I opened up the Timing Belt cover and removed the CPS. funny thing: The bolt that holds the metal spinner with its washer wasn't bolted into the camshaft, so I guess it was limp and barely hanging in. I guess thats why the sensor code came up since it wasn't spinning?
I used battery cleaner spray to clean out the inside.

The bolt wont catch the threads into the cylinder.
I am able to turn the bolt a few degrees but it gets tight instantly. Is that supposed to happen?

What I had done:
1.) I had opened the sensor and pulled it out, cleaned it
2.) When I was putting it back in I noticed that the magnet in the sensor seemed to pull the spinner away from the cylinder. After pushing the spinner back in and trying to put the sensor bolts back in... about the third try, the whole spinner bolt came out.

 

[wmj259]

Is it possible to tighten up the timing belt? It seems a little flimsy by pushing it

 

[PZ]

The 1st thread of the bolt is stripped, you can see the gap between the threads is not the same. Replace the bolt, but I would also replace the sensor. I expect the loose wheel damaged it.

 

[V6B5APR]

If the tab/key on the wheel is damaged or there is any damage to the wheel, that should also be replaced.

 

[wmj259]

The 1st thread of the bolt is stripped, you can see the gap between the threads is not the same. Replace the bolt, but I would also replace the sensor. I expect the loose wheel damaged it.

I tapped the camshaft a few threads, I guess the old threadlock clogged up the threads..... I am having some troubles with the timing belt though, since on the right side (driver ) the timing belt is loose, but the left side (passenger) the timing belts tight because of the pulleys and gears... Is that normal? I have driven it on the highway before even knowing of this "problem" (if it is one?) and hit 70-80mph to test my work but so far no bad signs....

If the tab/key on the wheel is damaged or there is any damage to the wheel, that should also be replaced.

That tab is in good condition, from the looks of it.

 

[PZ]

Depending on the position of the camshaft on the valves, it's normal for that side to be a little loose when the engine stops.

 

[wmj259]

Depending on the position of the camshaft on the valves, it's normal for that side to be a little loose when the engine stops.

Well in that case, should I replace the timing belt tensioner? Its the hydraulic version, and I have no freaking clue how to adjust it. Is it possible for to explain why there should be that much slack in the belt? Or its just a simple, "its there, don't worry bout it" answer?

I tapped the camshaft bolt and tapped the camshaft threads where the bolt goes, no metal shavings came out so that's good. Does that bolt need to have thread-locker on it or is it fine to just wrench it in? I got it all closed up, but its not hard to remove 2-10mm bolts.

 

[PZ]

Is that the old style tension pulley with a ball joint connecting it to the tension damper? It's hard to tell from the video, but if it is, that should have been replaced with the head. The belt is tensioned only on one side, the other is pushed together from the valve springs pushing the cam clockwise. It's not enough to turn the crank, but it will pull the belt tighter on one side and make it looser on the other.

I would not use thread locker on the cam bolt. There is not much tension on it, it only holds the small wheel in place.

 

[wmj259]

Is that the old style tension pulley with a ball joint connecting it to the tension damper? It's hard to tell from the video, but if it is, that should have been replaced with the head. The belt is tensioned only on one side, the other is pushed together from the valve springs pushing the cam clockwise. It's not enough to turn the crank, but it will pull the belt tighter on one side and make it looser on the other.

I would not use thread locker on the cam bolt. There is not much tension on it, it only holds the small wheel in place.

Yes its that type with the ball joint connection that attaches to a lever arm with a torx screw on it.

 

[PZ]

Those were original on the 98-99 Passats and I have not seen one in many year. They were updated in 2000.

 

[wmj259]

Those were original on the 98-99 Passats and I have not seen one in many year. They were updated in 2000.

I'll take a picture of it for you

 

[PZ]

I'll take a picture of it for you

I've replaced plenty of them (over a dozen), but it's been 10 years or so since I have seen one. I have not even seen a 98-99 Passat in over 5 years.

 

[wmj259]

I've replaced plenty of them (over a dozen), but it's been 10 years or so since I have seen one. I have not even seen a 98-99 Passat in over 5 years.

How were they updated? The design is different? Since most of google searches for new ones some still have the hydraulic required?

 

[PZ]

The attachment point was removed. Now the tension damper pushes on a lever attached only to the tension roller. The ball joint connection would often fail. Here is the new setup:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-4_Motion-1.8T/Engine/Timing/ES541/