[axenstar]

Hi all,
I am replacing the CCT. But, I have been trying to remove this one bolt. I did try to use one size larger torx socket and every time I did it got bigger. I really dont want to drill or anything that would scatter metal splinters in to the head.

Could you give me some ideas?
Thanks.

 

[ylwagon]

You already have some shards of steel on that cam, so before running the engine, use a magnet to grab as much as you can.

The screw's a goner obviously, so whatever you do to remove it won't matter. I'd start with a chisel, tapping on the rim of the screw until the point digs in enough to not slip when you next try to turn it with the hammer blows. Start easy, and if it breaks free, your Torx driver will probably bite enough to unscrew it the rest of the way.

Another method, which requires much masking and protective paper, is to use a Dremel tool's cutting disk to make a slot for a big flat blade screwdriver.

 

[PigOut]

You could try something like this. They grab the outside of the bolt head.

Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets

 

[axenstar]

This makes sense. But, the screws were so soft, any time I tried to turn them it felt like hardened butter. 270K miles and 15 years of heated oil etc. What if this method too fails? Can I just cut the head off?

You already have some shards of steel on that cam, so before running the engine, use a magnet to grab as much as you can.

The screw's a goner obviously, so whatever you do to remove it won't matter. I'd start with a chisel, tapping on the rim of the screw until the point digs in enough to not slip when you next try to turn it with the hammer blows. Start easy, and if it breaks free, your Torx driver will probably bite enough to unscrew it the rest of the way.

Another method, which requires much masking and protective paper, is to use a Dremel tool's cutting disk to make a slot for a big flat blade screwdriver.

 

[axenstar]

I did try this. The remover can not have grip on the rim. It slips.

 

[PZ]

Chisel between the cap and bottom of the screw head. Use a very flat angle and it should snap off. Too much angle and it will dig into the cap. Make sure it does not drop into the engine. Cover everything around it and put the other 3 bolts back in and tight.

 

[AndreasPassat]

I'm just pointing out something that catches my eye.
That cam and camshaft cap look very dry, like it has ZERO oil on it.
Was it like that when you removed the camshaft covers?

X2 on PZ's post.
And after the camshaft cap is off you get at the stud sticking out and remove that with a vise grip or even maybe by hand.
I think they are like $4 range for a new one.

 

[Tomvw]

I would expect you could remove it with vice-grips.

 

[CR125Honda]

If the idea's above don't work for you...

Get a drill bit a size or two larger than the diameter of the screw shaft.
Using a variable speed drill and a slow speed, drill the head off the screw. Don't go deep enough to let the bit touch the cam cap housing.
If you want to save some clean up time, hold a vacuum hose next to the screw while drilling.
I'm sure it's obvious but ALL metal shavings, etc., need to be contained, & removed.

Pull the cam cap off and you'll probably be able to unscrew it by hand after that.

Ken

 

[GLInick]

any time I work near exposed machined surfaces like the valvetrain, I keep a magnet or two next to what I do.

If you have any dead hard drives, open them up and remove the magnets, and run them all over every part you can get to.

My guess is that the head looks dry because he wiped everything up either before starting on this, or afterwards to remove metal flakes from the stripped bolt head.

 

[axenstar]

I kept magnet but how can I be 100% sure there is no shavings left? I am removing the intake cam for CCT replacement. I am planning to thoroughly clean it outside the engine.

 

[flashburn]

I have removed these with vise grips in similar situations. The heads of the screws are pretty meaty. Put it on there at hard as you possibly can and unscrew it. Once it breaks loose, it should thread out by hand. You will need to get a new one from a dealer or junkyard though.

 

[axenstar]

Also, am I supposed to put some sort of lube under the caps that I am to put back on cams?

 

[GLInick]

i don't know if you can be 100% sure. the only was is to not have them there in the first place or to contain them away from the valvetrain. just make sure you remove as much as you can with a vac and a magnet, and pour a couple of quarts of oil all over to wash it down to the crankcase and out the oil drain.

change the oil filter before you start the engine again, and change it again soon after. it may seem paranoid, but it's hard to know exactly what you did before you posted the photo.

If you are good about chiseling off a bold head, fine (if you work in a machine shop or fix cars as a hobby this would be cake). If you have any doubts, don't try it. The cam cap has a recessed seat for the bolt, and if you don't do this right, you could damage things, the chisel could slip and hit something else ...

I'd try making a slot with a metal hand saw first (cover and tape up everything around there of course, and put a magnet on the saw blade) and try to rotate it with a chisel on a very flat angle (or two chisels on opposite sides if you have someone else around).

 

[CR125Honda]

Also, am I supposed to put some sort of lube under the caps that I am to put back on cams?

Google "assembly lube". Most auto parts stores have it.

 

[axenstar]

Update:

I ended up resorting to a crazy idea. I super glued the reverse socket onto the bolt. I hit it on the head with plastic mallet couple of times so it settles on the screw. Waited about 10 min. Applied my body pressure on it. Slowly turned. A big click sound from the screw! Victory

 

[DerhsLacidar]

Gotta love those little victories!