Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

41 - 54 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I think I have been resistant to the clipless because of the $$. Spending $150 on pedals for a $400 bike never seemed to click for me. Maybe I can find some used ones on eBay or something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
navice_13 said:
I think I have been resistant to the clipless because of the $$. Spending $150 on pedals for a $400 bike never seemed to click for me. Maybe I can find some used ones on eBay or something.
I started with low-end Shimano pedals (about $50) and they were just fine. Stick with a name brand -- Shimano or Time -- and you can't really go wrong. Pedals are pretty durable and trouble-free so ebay may be a good idea. You don't need to spend a fortune on shoes either, as long as they fit. More expensive shoes will probably last longer but they don't really "work" better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,050 Posts
Navice_13 . . . I have a Trek 4500 2003 model 17.5" frame size if you're interested. I purchased the bike looking to learn some mountain biking, but that never occurred. The bike has honestly been ridden less than 50 miles and i can take many pics if you wish. . . let me know if you're interested.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
crew217 said:
Navice_13 . . . I have a Trek 4500 2003 model 17.5" frame size if you're interested.
Dave
Thanks for the heads up Dave. I am trying to get a better idea of needed frame size. The shop guys told me 17.5" would work for me, but my current Specialized Hard Rock is closer to a 21". I'm 6'0" so I just need to ride a few to get a better sense of what I need. I always felt my current bike was a bit out of control on trails (though fine on the road).

Any tips on sizing from the MTB experts?

Also, thanks for the pedal info. $50 is much more appealing.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,050 Posts
navice_13 said:
crew217 said:
Navice_13 . . . I have a Trek 4500 2003 model 17.5" frame size if you're interested.
Dave
Thanks for the heads up Dave. I am trying to get a better idea of needed frame size. The shop guys told me 17.5" would work for me, but my current Specialized Hard Rock is closer to a 21". I'm 6'0" so I just need to ride a few to get a better sense of what I need. I always felt my current bike was a bit out of control on trails (though fine on the road).

Any tips on sizing from the MTB experts?

Also, thanks for the pedal info. $50 is much more appealing.

Thanks.
Replied to your PM . . . The shop i went to had me try both a 19" frame and a 17.5" frame in treks. The 19" fit but the shop tech recommended the 17.5" because of less weight and also you have more control since your center of gravity is lower . . . also, he mentioned that a 19" frame in one brand isn't necessarily the same fitment as another brand. (due to diff frame geometries)

If you're interested, i highly suggest visiting a local dealer and testing them out.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
crew217 said:
If you're interested, i highly suggest visiting a local dealer and testing them out.

Dave
That's my next stop. Just need to ride a few, but I am guessing a 17" - 19" will fit the bill. Just depends on comfort after that.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
navice_13 said:
Also, thanks for the pedal info. $50 is much more appealing.
Check these pedals out for $40.

Regarding sizing: it is absolutely true that different bike geometries will fit differently, so the size numbers by themselves are not enough to go on. You really have to try the bike out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,449 Posts
also remember this. smaller frames are stiffer (smaller triangles) and lighter (less tubing). if you can get away with running a small frame via a higher seat post then go for it. i worked with a guy that was 6'3" and rode an 18" klein running a HUGE seatpost and longer stem. obviously, definitely more complex than your standard bike fitment. but you can also get some "suspension" like qualities via that long seat post as it flexes a bit.

boy i miss that job!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
Medrosje said:
also remember this. smaller frames are stiffer (smaller triangles) and lighter (less tubing). if you can get away with running a small frame via a higher seat post then go for it. i worked with a guy that was 6'3" and rode an 18" klein running a HUGE seatpost and longer stem. obviously, definitely more complex than your standard bike fitment. but you can also get some "suspension" like qualities via that long seat post as it flexes a bit.

boy i miss that job!
The undersized frame/huge seatpost combination is good for trials (stunt) riding but it will not be comfortable for long rides. Don't overdo it.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
As an aside on clipless pedals, if you have knee problems, you might want to consider the Speedplay pedals as they allow more lateral movement. I've had surgeries to both knees to replace worn cartiledge, a knee cap and repair tendons and find that the Speedplays are the most comfortable for me.

Your bike choices seem to be good ones and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. I would give serious consideration to the shop when selecting a bike - its like the service dept. of the car dealer. The salesman can sell you the bike but you'll likely never see him again - its the techs that you want to make sure know their stuff.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
Postman said:
passaturbonium said:
00Psst said:
Postman said:
passaturbonium said:
How about this one guys.....its about 220-250

Aluminum frame...and it seems like its the only decant bike in my pricerange

http://www.bucks5kseries.com/raleigh_m20.html

More info would be appriciated!
I did a lot of research before I purchased, and will say that a good set of forks costs $300, so I have a feeling you won't find any thing worth owning in the $200 range new. I would get an older used bike off Ebay. Kinda the difference between a new Hyundai and a used A4. For $200 - $300 you can find a very decent bike that's 5 -6 years old.

This is jsut my opinion of course.
I'd avoid the Ebay route for a bike - especially one that is 5-6 years old. An aluminum frame has a limited life before it starts to wear as do the components. Additionally, you'll never know how the previous owner treated it and how hard they were on it. I've seen lots of folks ride their bikes through just about everything and then put it away caked with mud and other crap. I cringe at the thought of all of those seals just rotting away.

If you were going to buy used, I'd look no older than 1-2 years, and have a reputable bike shop check it out first. Of course, I wouldn't buy used at all, at least not in a mountain bike.
Same here....
I have the feeling you two wouldn't buy a $250 new mountain bike either.
No I wouldn't but that's because I'm harder on the bikes than most (weight and riding style) and the lower end Shimano components that come on bikes in the price range don't typically hold up for me. There is nothing wrong with buying a bike in this range if all you're going to do is ride it on the road - paved and dirt but for singletrack and harder abuse trails as well as roads (curbs can be harsh too) I prefer a beefier set of components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Just back from test riding and the favorite so far is the Gary Fisher Marlin. For some reason, it just felt right. Couldn't pin it on one thing or the other, but very comfortable riding position on a 17.5" frame. Also rode the Trek 4500 and a Cannondale F300 in steal me yellow. F300 was great as well. Trek felt a bit off, but a nice bike.

Will decide later this week. Need to sleep on this decision as I bought my last bike 16 years ago!

Thanks to all for the guidance. Very solid info. I am sure to be shopping the Classifieds for a roof rack shortly.... :thumbup:

Quick Update - I purchased a Gary Fisher Marlin today. Went for a city/road ride this afternoon. Looking forward to the first trail run.
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
Top