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I did a tire rotation this weekend and while I had the rims off I took some pics of the rear pad and rotor(fronts are thicker). I know the OEM has sensors but do all 4 have the sensors or just the front? I have a manual and downshift to slow down when I can. I am at 40K and I have seen post where members are changing the pads and rotors at less than 40K :suspicio: So what do you think of the thickness of this pad, does it look in need of replacing?
If I go ahead and replace the rear pads, with pads that create less dust :mad:, should I just go ahead and do the rotors too?
Your help is appreciated :)

 

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Dealership told me they usually do the first pad replacement at 25k :shock: The rears do NOT have sensor wires in them (at least mine don't and I'm down to about 5% pad left)
 

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Huh? looks like there's plenty left on that pad... at least equal to the backing plate thickness, which is what, 6mm? Replacement should be done with 2mm left on the pad.

Don't forget to try to peek at the inner pads, if they aren't wearing evenly that will change the schedule.
 

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He doesn't say how he accumulated those 40k miles but my guess would be its mostly highway since those pads look fine.

I'd say you've only worn about half to 5/8ths of the pad so far so you're fine for now. You do want to make sure as someone else mentioned to check the inner pads as well - my inners wore a bit quicker than my outers.
 

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The Chilton repair manual (covering 1996 – 2001’s) specifies the following pad wear limits:
Front: 3mm pad remaining
Rear: 2mm pad remaining
I would say that these values obtain maximum use of the pads, I believe you would be very close to exposing the brake pad rivets to the rotors if you waited this long, thus damaging your rotors. Damaging the rotors is not a big deal if you are going to replace them. However, driving a car using in this condition is unsafe, IMHO.

I am currently at ~63K and am just now performing my first brake pad replacement.

Concerning rotor replacement, replacing them is up to you. Do you want an excuse to upgrade?

The minimum rotor thickness is stamped on your rotor housing hub. With the wheel off and a micrometer, you can tell if the rotor is above or below the replacement specification. (Note: at auto repair shops, rotor replacement is one of the biggest service scams going). If you do keep the existing rotors, have them turned/resurfaced. This costs around $15.00 per rotor. Some will argue that you might as well buy some inexpensive OEM rotors. At ECS a generic brand rear rotor set goes for ~$35 + shipping. No I am not a spokesman; I just ordered my Big Brake Kit upgrade (A8) kit from ECS, so I know their prices.

From the outer pad at least, it looks like you have plenty of pad left. However, check the inner pad to make sure it has not worn faster that the outer. While you are doing it, you might as well use a ruler to measure the thickness.
 

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Sharky said:
Ooinn99 said:
I believe you would be very close to exposing the brake pad rivets to the rotors if you waited this long, thus damaging your rotors.
There are no rivets. There is no danger, and there would be no damage to the rotors.
This is interesting…the Chilton writers must be using a generic statement when referring to brake pad minimum wear.

Since this will be my first B5 brake pad/rotor replacement, I could not tell the pads do not have adhesion rivets, and would not thought to question the Chilton comment.
 
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