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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did search for it but couldn't find one with the pictures. Anyone did it and have DIY instruction with pictures? TIA
 

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easier than you think

Because I didnt know the bleeder tip size, before I started, I went to Home Depot and bought 2 ft. of each flex clear plastic tube thats in the 3/8 in range. I had one that fit nice and snug over the bleeder tip.
It was alot easier than I thought, just follow the procedure. The hardest part was taking off the tires.

I put the drain end in a large soda bottle and watch the black fluid go from tube to bottle, pretty nasty. The good thing about clear tubing is you can see the fluid. I was surprised that when my friend released the brake after pumping down, the fluid did not draw back in. So, I was able to keep the plug open during pumping. On the release, the fluid just sat in hose. I did not have to close the plug on each pump release. I just closed the plug when I saw new fluid come out on the down pump to avoid any air bubbles.
 

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I used a Motive Power Bleeder and it was very easy. The cost for the bleeder and brake fluid was less than what the dealer would have charged to change it. So next time it will just be the cost of the brake fluid. Bonus!

I think I used 1/4" ID tubing. I bought three different sizes as I didn't know which one would be correct.

I was switching from summer to winter tires when I did the procedure, so didn't take off the tires just to do this. I've heard others who leave the tires on, but I am not sure if I could have done it the first time this way. I plan to take off the tires next time I do it.
 

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Definitly buy a motive, well worth it. Easier on you and your car.

I've done it without taking off the tires, but I think that added as much time as it saved, plus it made it harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, great, another silly questions if you guys don't mind:

1. Should I flush the brake fluid first before replace the disk and brake pads, so when I'm doing the piston there's no fluid inside at all,

OR

2. replace the disk and brake pads first and flush the brake fluids at the end,

OR

3.do it on the same time: before retract the piston

TIA
OR
 

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I concur. Second choice - replace rotors and pads, then flush at the end.

The reason is that in case you got any junk into the lines during the pad replacement, you can flush it out. Most likely this wouldn't happen, but it is the safer way to go.
 
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Plus you should bleed the drakes while you change the pads...so if your going to do this anyways....why waste my dot 4?? Waste the old dirty stuff and then when your done flush it out with the new stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
good, thanks a lot guys, so while retracting the piston, do I have to unscrew the bleeder screw little bit or keep it close, until I'm finish and ready to bleed the fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Plus you should bleed the brakes while you change the pads...

you mean unscrew the bleeder screw while changing the pad, so expecting some old fluid coming out from the bleeder line/hole? (I'm going to do the rear pads)
 
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Ok well the rears aren't bad at all...I didn't even open the bleeder screw. I just open the brake fluid res, lid. then you will use a 13mm and a 15mm and its cake. after that you want to start the bleeding from the closes to the farest. So you will open the drivers side front bleeder screw....bleed that till it looks clean and clear, then move to the drivers side rear.... That way you are really cleaning out the old stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok well the rears aren't bad at all...I didn't even open the bleeder screw. I just open the brake fluid res, lid. then you will use a 13mm and a 15mm and its cake. after that you want to start the bleeding from the closes to the farest. So you will open the drivers side front bleeder screw....bleed that till it looks clean and clear, then move to the drivers side rear.... That way you are really cleaning out the old stuff.
You mean I have to do all four sides of bleeder screws?
 
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You mean I have to do all four sides of bleeder screws?
Yeah thats a brake flush. flushing out all the brake lines...which there are 4. you have to do them one at a time, to keep the pressure in the system and to clean each line out right. If you don't want to flush and just do a brake change (rotors and pads) then just open the brake res lay a rag around it (so it won't poor on the paint and eat it up) and then follow the write up to a T. If you have a power bleeder and 3 cans of DOT4 then yup you have to do each and in the order I posted before:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah thats a brake flush. flushing out all the brake lines...which there are 4. you have to do them one at a time, to keep the pressure in the system and to clean each line out right. If you don't want to flush and just do a brake change (rotors and pads) then just open the brake res lay a rag around it (so it won't poor on the paint and eat it up) and then follow the write up to a T. If you have a power bleeder and 3 cans of DOT4 then yup you have to do each and in the order I posted before:thumbup:

Great, once all four are done, the brake reservoir should be empty, right? Then we pour the fresh brake fluid and start pumping the brake pedal ? Is that it?
 
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Nope you should have brake fluid in the power bleeder pushing in the brake lines...that way after your done...you should have too much and you have to get brake fluid out, turkey bastery (sp?). you should keep 15psi (I think may not be psi but should be around the 10 to 15 mark of presure)
 

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Great, once all four are done, the brake reservoir should be empty, right? Then we pour the fresh brake fluid and start pumping the brake pedal ? Is that it?
If using the Motive Power Bleeder it is a different procedure than using the brake pedal method. I recommend the Motive method. http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

After all four corners are bled all the way (you can see the new brake fluid is lighter in color and clear vs. the old yellow fluid, then slightly tilt the Motive so it can start filling the brake reservoir with a little air and then bleed just a bit more. Close the bleeder valve on the last brake line, and then let the pressure out of the Motive Bleeder (the correct way, or else you'll get brake fluid all over yourself!).

This way you won't need to use a turkey baster to get the extra off the top of the brake reservoir. But don't drain the reservoir! Air in the system is bad and dangerous.

I recall the supplied directions worked very well.
 
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