[shure2]

Hi guys,

I've not too long had this car and it's had the problem since the start, it's one of a few issues (leaking rocker cover gaskets, engine mounts and more), but is the most annoying now it's coming into summer in NZ.

I've researched the possible problems, but it doesn't appear to be common to have both A/C and heater not working. The engine temp gauge gets to normal temp in a reasonable time.

Does anyone have any ideas? I guess flushing heater core would just help heat...

Thanks for the help in advance

 

[cuppie]

Climatronic, or manual heating-A/C?
If Climatronic, run its self diagnosis (I don't remember the key sequence, sorry), and see if it spits out any fault codes.

For either system:
back-flushing the heater core would probably be a good idea. Also get the A/C recharged, and have the shop put a shot of UV dye in it, and check it for leaks.

 

[shure2]

Thanks for that. I got '4fa 00' when I ran the diagnosis. From my research it points the the recirculation flap which makes sense if it can't bring in the air from outside because its only recirculating from inside?

Found the issue of the heater not working, the pipes going into the core have been taken off and connected together, very suspicious why this would have been done (maybe a leak in the core?)

Aircon I will get recharged and hopefully it works

 

[PZ]

If the recirc fails closed, it only affects fresh air, not the air temp (as much). The a/c and heat are both post recirc flap, so they actually work better without the outside air.

 

[cuppie]

Found the issue of the heater not working, the pipes going into the core have been taken off and connected together, very suspicious why this would have been done (maybe a leak in the core?)

Yep - heater core blew up. Needs replaced.

Aircon I will get recharged and hopefully it works

You might want to hold off, pending your heater core replacement.
Reason: The refrigerant needs to be recovered, prior to replacing the heater core - no way around it.
My suggestion would be to get it recovered, replace the heater core, then get it charged (with a shot of dye.)

Oh, and: Give the condenser a really close look, with a good, strong flashlight. Any oil smears on it, or a place that seems to have a mysterious glob of dust/dirt stuck to it? Those mean that it's leaking, and needs replaced.

 

[shure2]

Thanks PZ and cuppie. Unfortunately these are just the cherry on top of the below issues. I fear the heater core replacement will cost another $2000NZD

What I've got quoted so far (all in NZ dollars, 1NZD = 0.70USD):
- Rocker cover gaskets leaking-$927 incl gst
- Rear brakes are worn-$551 incl gst
- Both engine mounts are leaking-$709 incl gst
- Left front inner and outer cv boots leaking-$335 incl gst
- Wheel alignment needed after cv boot/suspension jobs-$92 incl gst
- 4 x upper control arm bushes-worn-recommend complete arms with ball joints due to mileage-$660incl gst
- Recommend a new coolant bottle and coolant flush due to rust scale in system-$379 incl gst
- Transfer case seal and side diff seals leaking-$849 incl gst

The car has only done 120,000km, so I'm suprised to see some things needing repair "due to mileage"

 

[jjpark]

I would check under the carpet in the front to see if the heater core at some point leaked into that area. You might have some underlying issues that pop up due to one of the computers getting wet.

With this many issues I would say the car has been neglected or has been driven very hard. The mileage is pretty low to have all this going on but the years alone will take a toll on it also.

 

[Tomvw]

If you paid the nearly $6,000.00 to get all those repairs done, you would be lucky to get $3,000.00 if you sold it.
I suggest you sort out the most important items and just fix those yourself.

 

[Hirnbeiss]

Give him the 335 for the CV boots and do the rest with the help of youtube videos and this forum. You could do the CV boots too, but not a bad price for a messy job on the AWD.

 

[Tomvw]

The 355 is just for the left front.

- Left front inner and outer cv boots leaking-$335 incl gst

 

[shure2]

Thanks for the feedback guys, do you think it's really worth doing anything compared to selling it as a going concern.

I don't mind spending my time on this, but would it be worth it on the cost of the parts?

So CV boots I should get done by a garage, the rest with the help of this forum and the internet?

 

[ECS Tuning]

OP;

At ECS Tuning we sell a Complete Valve Cover Gasket Kit
Here is the link to them: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembl...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_30_2017

You will also need to change the oil and filter after you replace both valve cover gaskets as oil and debris can get into the motor.
Here is one of our Oil Service Kits - With ECS Magnetic Drain Plug: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembl...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_30_2017

We also sell rear brake rotors at ECS Tuning, here is a link to a set we sell: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pilenga...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_30_2017

Here is a set of rear brake pads that we sell at ECS Tuning: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ebc-par...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_30_2017

Chuck

 

[Tomvw]

I would NOT consider paying $355 to have the boots replaced on one axle.

 

[shure2]

OK thanks Tom, I'll shop around and try find a more reasonable cost

 

[shure2]

Hi all,

I'm getting no cold A/C at all and have troubleshooted the following:
- Only a recirc flap sensor issue on climatronic, shouldn't effect A/C?
- Gas is at good pressure
- 267 Relay seems good (disconnected it and A/C clutch doesn't engage, reconnect and clutch runs)
- Red valve thing under passenger side dash moves fine when going between hold and cold on the unit
- 30amp fuse looks good

Any ideas?