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I'm prettty sure I've got warped rear rotors for the second time in 35K miles. I've noticed a few posts mentioning "bedding pads". How exactly is this done?

Thanks.
 

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not to sure this is the proper forum to dscuss bedding pads, just try to stay in control of your bladder, as far as the rotors, be sure your lug are always hand torqued, and give your brakes some cool down after hard driving/braking.
 

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Syncroq5 said:
not to sure this is the proper forum to dscuss bedding pads
it is

as far as i know the procedure is to go from 80 ( or higher) to 10mph ( not stoping ) as quickly as possible with out locking the tires

do this 3 or 4 times

then drive around for a few hours to let them air cool
 

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[quote="crash893]

it is

as far as i know the procedure is to go from 80 ( or higher) to 10mph ( not stoping ) as quickly as possible with out locking the tires

do this 3 or 4 times

then drive around for a few hours to let them air cool[/quote]

That is the quickest way to screw up your new pads, all the above does is glaze the pads up and you don't have to drive round for a few hours to cool them down.

The pads (friction material) should be used lightly for the first 200miles so that the pad surface can adapt to the disc (rotor). The time needed for this to happen largely depends on the condition of the brake disc (rotor). Pads will adapt to a new disc (rotor) relatively quickly, whereas an older used disc will take much longer as the pad has to wear down to match the contours of the wear of the disc.

Here are the instructions from Red Dot Racing (where i got my pads and rotors from)

Care should be taken NOT to try and bed the pads too quickly as this causes the friction material to overheat, reducing the effectiveness of the pad and can lead to cracking of the friction material, low wear resistance and lack of performance (brake fade).


Should new discs and pads be bedded in and if so, how?

The answer is yes, for optimum performance, any time different friction materials or discs are introduced, a bedding procedure should be carried out.
While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.
Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.
The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.
Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application.
The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.
When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
 

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the Zeck link is for performance pads, the more aggressive street pads and "race" pads, this is the technique that must be used for ceramic pads and high performance pads.

street pads need the calmer bedding in process, and some performance street pads that are not too aggressive need the calmer process as well.

With my Axxis Ultimates the Zeck procedure is nessisary, with OEM the calm procedure is nessisary.
 

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jeffsu350 said:
the Zeck link is for performance pads, the more aggressive street pads and "race" pads, this is the technique that must be used for ceramic pads and high performance pads.

street pads need the calmer bedding in process, and some performance street pads that are not too aggressive need the calmer process as well.

With my Axxis Ultimates the Zeck procedure is nessisary, with OEM the calm procedure is nessisary.
I've only used moderate to aggressive street pads (MetalMasters) and, trust me, the smoother method has always worked perfectly.
I have NEVER warped rotors or glazed the brakes.

Good luck to those who wish to smoke them right out of the box.
 
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