Perhaps the battery is not good and some of the internal cells are shorted together?
Battery smokes when connected.
I searched the internet for hours last night and came up with absolutely nothing which really surprised me but here is the deal. I bought a 2000 Passat for 300 bucks. Broken down on the side of the road. Got it home, charged the battery hooked it up and got nothing. Replaced the maxi fuse by the ecm and now when I hook power up it smokes and shorts out. I traced the wires best I could from the battery through the fire wall to the relay block under the dash and everything appears normal.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! It's a decent car, would be cool to get it fixed.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! It's a decent car, would be cool to get it fixed.
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Check to see if any major electrical component and/or positive wire to see if it is shorted to ground first. With a multimeter
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Maxi fuse by ECM? Does that fuse appear to be an aftermarket add-on like someone once had a big sound system in the car? Or is it the fuse in the ECM box for the SAIPump?
The car should be able to start and run without either of the above fuses.
Does the battery itself smoke or is it that big fuse that smokes?
The car should be able to start and run without either of the above fuses.
Does the battery itself smoke or is it that big fuse that smokes?
I'd start by ohming between the pos and neg terminals... If it's low resistance, you have a massive short somewhere.
It's the fuse in the ecm box. Multimeter reads close to zero resistance. My guess is to check out the starter since the wire leading to the relay block under the dash looks fine.
Issue solved! Battery was garbage. It's one step closer to life, got it cranking for me. It won't start, can't hear the fuel pump priming. Never had a Volkswagen but it should be obvious as in any other car right? I may be answering my own question but the lady I bought it from said the car stopped wanting to accelerate so she pulled over. When she went back it wouldn't start at all. Seems like a faulty pump right?
I wouldn't say that!
Get a full scan with VCDS and post all of the codes.
Get a full scan with VCDS and post all of the codes.
So it's definitely getting fuel and spark. From what I've read the most likely culprit is the crank sensor. The battery died from the last person trying to crank it so I don't pull any codes but a cylinder 3 misfire and an epc light. I just have a generic Bosch obd2 scanner, not the fancy VW one.
Some details of the car would help, such as eng code, trans, body, A/C, etc.
Check compression.
Check valve timing (both camshafts).
Check compression.
Check valve timing (both camshafts).
where do you have fuel ? the fuel pressure regulator could prevent starting
I know what you mean, but we should be clear that isn't the positive and negative battery terminals that you want to measure the resistance of. The battery should be disconnected while you check the positive cable for low resistance to ground.I'd start by ohming between the pos and neg terminals... If it's low resistance, you have a massive short somewhere.
How do you know the thing is getting fuel and spark? If true, that would tend to rule out the crank sensor.So it's definitely getting fuel and spark. From what I've read the most likely culprit is the crank sensor.
Could be either crank pos'n sensor or perhaps the fuel filter if the car has >125K miles on the odo. The fact that it wouldn't start after she returned almost rules out a weak fuel pump. Usually the FP will give you noise warnings (running louder than normal) or operational issues (can't develop pressure when fuel is low or hot) that it's getting close to death....the lady I bought it from said the car stopped wanting to accelerate so she pulled over.
To confirm whether you've got fuel at the injectors, you'll probably need to pull the fuel rail with injectors attached.
a vw is really just like any other car out there nowdays. the only difference is that you can't really shoot from the hip and guess at what something might be, like a domestic, you have to just properly diagnose a failure.
i've worked both sides of this automotive world, not much of a difference
i've worked both sides of this automotive world, not much of a difference
I've had two fuel pump failures, and neither gave warnings, noises or otherwise. The first just signed off while I was going 80, tach dropped to zero (automatic trans so it effectively shifted to neutral). The second one dropped pressure more gradually, as I was trying to accellerate, but within seconds was done too. This certainly could be a fuel pressure issue, due to the pump or electrical circuit, but the first step would be to make sure the pump is running. I really doubt a fuel filter would cause this kind of symptom.Could be either crank pos'n sensor or perhaps the fuel filter if the car has >125K miles on the odo. The fact that it wouldn't start after she returned almost rules out a weak fuel pump. Usually the FP will give you noise warnings (running louder than normal) or operational issues (can't develop pressure when fuel is low or hot) that it's getting close to death.
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