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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving last night and i kept hearing a popping sound when breaking. So i pulled my car in the garage and use my flash to see if anything was visibly loose. Nothing, so i jacked the car off grabbed the passenger tire and toght as could be 0 play, went to the driver tire and it has a lot of play for little effort. I pulled the tire off and shoot the spindle and where the tire rod goes into the spindle there is a lot of play. Ill post a video. Is this a hard job at all? Assuming need a tire rod and allinment, might aswell do both sides. Is it safe to drive for a little, truck is going into shop for transmission work and need this car to get me to school n shit for probably 2 weeks...

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Tie-rods should have no play, if yours is as described I suggest you don't drive it at all until the faulty parts have been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not safe.
The vw or truck?
Ok i picked up two outer tie rod ends going to do both sides, hopefully tonight. Seems easy, any tips or tricks? I heard these cars have seizing issues, and im assuming these are 224k m old

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I'll third the vote for not safe. I once had a tie rod end disconnect itself while I was driving an early 80's SAAB 900. The car made an unannounced and immediate sharp left turn. Luckily I was passing the entrance to a parking lot and the car made it's snap turn directly into an empty lot. Sphincter factor of 8.7 on that ride. :icon_eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll third the vote for not safe. I once had a tie rod end disconnect itself while I was driving an early 80's SAAB 900. The car made an unannounced and immediate sharp left turn. Luckily I was passing the entrance to a parking lot and the car made it's snap turn directly into an empty lot. Sphincter factor of 8.7 on that ride. :icon_eek:
I bought new tie rod ends, any tips or tricks?

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If your truck is going in for warranty work, why not ask the dealership for a loaner car? Even if you have to pay for the rental, it's safer than tie-rod end snapping.
 

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As you remove the old TREs, count the turns as precisely as you can, until they come off.make some marking on the threads and the old TRE if that will help you. Write that number down for each side and when you are installing the new TRE count the same number of turns.

If you do that on both sides the toe alignment will be more or less the same. I would suggest you get an alignment right after, or else you will be looking at new tires.

The truck sounds more usable than the Passat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Quick question is there a torque spec on that bolt?

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Changing the TRE is not that hard, just start by removing the vertical screw (13mm socket/wrench). Loosen the adjustment jam-nut (22mm?) and then the clamp bolt's nut. Tap the clamp bolt out, then tap the ball joint's shaft down and out of the suspension casting. Tip: use some lube spray on these fasteners and clamp area first, then before completely removing that vertical screw, tap down on the head of that screw to get the ball joint loosened from the suspension casting. Once it's disconnected, you'll need to hold the inner tie-rod from turning so this outer tie-rod end can be unscrewed.

Install the new one, but have one extra tool on hand: a hex driver or Allen wrench to fit the socket in the end of the ball joint's shaft. Once the shaft is tapped into place in the suspension casting, you'll need to rotate the shaft to align a groove in the shaft so the clamp bolt can go back in. The vertical screw gets tightened first, followed by the clamp bolt. By the way, I use blue Locktite thread locker on the clamp bolt nut and vertical screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Changing the TRE is not that hard, just start by removing the vertical screw (13mm socket/wrench). Loosen the adjustment jam-nut (22mm?) and then the clamp bolt's nut. Tap the clamp bolt out, then tap the ball joint's shaft down and out of the suspension casting. Tip: use some lube spray on these fasteners and clamp area first, then before completely removing that vertical screw, tap down on the head of that screw to get the ball joint loosened from the suspension casting. Once it's disconnected, you'll need to hold the inner tie-rod from turning so this outer tie-rod end can be unscrewed.

Install the new one, but have one extra tool on hand: a hex driver or Allen wrench to fit the socket in the end of the ball joint's shaft. Once the shaft is tapped into place in the suspension casting, you'll need to rotate the shaft to align a groove in the shaft so the clamp bolt can go back in. The vertical screw gets tightened first, followed by the clamp bolt. By the way, I use blue Locktite thread locker on the clamp bolt nut and vertical screw.
Thanks, the driver side is done, except idk if there is a torque. I counted 24 revolutions before the original tre came out, if I was off can it still be aligned correctly.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Autozone said there was 2 different TRE, they threw them in the bag didn't tell me which one was which. I figured the one that came out was flush at the bottom of the threads was driver, and there was one that was flat and one that had a hole, so the one with the hole is my passenger.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I used torquespec.com, and did 33 flbs of torque on the knuckle tighten. Took around the block, steering feels smoother. It's wet, so I'm guessing it's that, at full crank of the wheel, it's feels like it slips or something, only does it at end of street, didn't do it in my court, or it could be that it's out of align.

BUT I'm still hearing popping sounds when breaking, jacked car back up, both tires are super tight no play both 12 6 and 3 6... so not sure...

Those TRE were seriously fucked though I'll post pics soon

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I changed my rotors about 3 months ago, could my calipers be loose?
Or the cv's I had installed year ago, are already torn and spinning their grease, could, with the water (California) they are binding when slowing down? Don't click on full turn
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Changing the TRE is not that hard, just start by removing the vertical screw (13mm socket/wrench). Loosen the adjustment jam-nut (22mm?) and then the clamp bolt's nut. Tap the clamp bolt out, then tap the ball joint's shaft down and out of the suspension casting. Tip: use some lube spray on these fasteners and clamp area first, then before completely removing that vertical screw, tap down on the head of that screw to get the ball joint loosened from the suspension casting. Once it's disconnected, you'll need to hold the inner tie-rod from turning so this outer tie-rod end can be unscrewed.

Install the new one, but have one extra tool on hand: a hex driver or Allen wrench to fit the socket in the end of the ball joint's shaft. Once the shaft is tapped into place in the suspension casting, you'll need to rotate the shaft to align a groove in the shaft so the clamp bolt can go back in. The vertical screw gets tightened first, followed by the clamp bolt. By the way, I use blue Locktite thread locker on the clamp bolt nut and vertical screw.
Everything is in steering is much smoother, TRE were shot, but still making a popping sound while breaking. As i posted abbove, it all started when it started raining, other sure if coincidence. 1 or both of my cv's axles are shot, and maybe their binding, or I put rotors on and maybe their loose? I'm kinda at a loss. Only does it at slow speed with very light braking.

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