[99vdubpassat]

3 weeks ago I had my alternator replaced for the 2nd time in one month and then a week later as I was driving 1 mile away from my house on the highway my cel (which was already on) started blinking, and my first thought was why is it misfiring it has a new coilpack, spark plugs and wires. Then there was white smoke coming from the passenger side of the engine while I was driving so I made a uturn to go back home. After I made the uturn I pulled over and it was oil but this time the smell of burning oil was different almost like it was going to ignite, so I rushed it back home and it drove fine on the mile trip back. When I got back I shut off the engine and heard a hissing noise and when i popped the hood there was a fire in the rear passenger side of the engine. Not a big fire but it scared the shit out of me. I was able to put it out and when I took a look around the engine there was a oil mess going into the back of the engine and a hole on the valve cover exposing the cam chain. My dad had me start it later that day and it idled less that 1k rpm and he told me to rev it and when I did it sounded like it had a turbo when I let off the gas which didn't sound bad but he told me oil was coming out and to shut off the engine and he even told me it sounds better now than before. I checked the cel codes and it has 15 different codes. I will post all of them later but it did misfire in cylinders 1, 2, 3. Also fuel system codes and cam position sensor short bank 1 code.

 

[boyesreef]

glad you made it home, ive seen a few cars getting lighter as that fire burns it away. hopefully its fixable.

 

[99vdubpassat]

I hope so. This all came out of nowhere and I'm still in school and have work to go to. Right now I don't have the time or money to keep fixing it. I can't put the blame on the car because the codes I had were probably on there after I got the alternator replaced. My thing is though what would make the chain hit the valve cover? When I got home that day the engine wasn't making any weird noises.

 

[99vdubpassat]

My cel codes are:
P0441-Evap
P0411-SAI Incorrect Flow
P1600-Power Supply Terminal No. 15 Low Voltage
P1129-Long Term Fuel Trim B2 System Too Rich
P1127-Long Term Fuel Trim B1 System Too Rich
P1141-Load Calculation Cross Check Range/Performance
P0300-Random Mult. Misfire
P0301-Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0303-Cylinder 3 Misfire
P0302-Cylinder 2 Misfire
P1250-Fuel Level Too Low
P1338-CMP Sensor Bank 1 Open Circuit Or Short To Positive
P1139-Long Term Fuel Trim Add. Fuel B2 System Too Rich
P1137-Long Term Fuel Trim Add. Fuel B1 System Too Rich

 

[boyesreef]

to make the chain eat through the cover it would be a chain tensioner failure. check the search feature and you will see it.

 

[99vdubpassat]

But would't the hole be in the middle of the valve cover if its the chain tensioner?

 

[scotts13]

No, the tensioner is at the end of the head.

 

[VAGguy]

Maybe they meant middle of the chain run under the cover. Still maybe not. If the tensioner failed (haven't looked a the codes) the chain would be slack and slap the inside of the valve cover. In extreme cases, if could break off a chunk.

 

[Tomvw]

I agree it looks like a chain tensioner failure. Check both tensioners and their pads.
Maybe the chain jumped a tooth, that could cause a break in that location.

I suggest you do not start or even crank the engine until all timing issues have been checked and corrected.
If you don't know that the timing belt has been replaced within the last 80,000 miles, replace it and its associated parts.

 

[sirwired]

Well, step one is going to be to get the valve cover off and work from there. Start with the blindingly obvious before worrying about the rest. For parts, go ahead and buy:

Valve Cover Gasket
Valve Cover (junkyard pull would be ideal)
CCT (can be another junkyard part if you are already making a trip to a pick-a-part)
CCTG
RTV (for the CCTG and VCG)
Material for an oil change. (When you have the VC off, give everything a close inpsection and good rinsing in oil and then do an oil change.)

That should be enough to get the engine started again; clear the codes, and see what comes back.

 

[99vdubpassat]

Planning to take the vc off tomorrow to do an inspection and go to the junkyard later on to get the parts. Also, by having P1338 -*Camshaft*Pos. Sensor Bank1 Short open Circ./Short B+, would it having anything to do with the cct?? Or could it have anything to do with the alternators.

When the alternator died the first time I had two codes p1750 for transmission low voltage and p1600 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 15 Low Voltage. I purchased a rebuilt from napa and took the car to the shop to have it replaced($200). When I got it back it drove 100miles fine that day and then the next day the new alternator dies and this time napa gave me another rebuilt and I installed it myself along with a new drive belt. The day after I installed it the car misfired and the only thing I smelled was sulfur(bad cat I guess). It only happened once so I assumed it was the clogged cat on the passenger side that caused it. After one week and over 400 miles later and this whole new situation happens. If the cam chain was making noise it was probably not all that noticeable because the new alternator was whining so loud it sounded like a supercharger. So I guess the alternator had to go through a break-in period??

Btw the codes p0441 and p0411 were on there before I had problems with the alternator.

 

[99vdubpassat]

I will probably get a timing belt kit, considering that I don't know when the last time it was changed. I bought this car 2 years ago when it had 131k miles on it and now it has 176k. I checked the belt in may or june when it had 166k and it still seemed to look pretty good. No wear marks or tears on it.

 

[Tomvw]

I expect that you are aware that it is an interference engine, and serious damage can occur if the engine is turned when the timing is not correct.

16825/P0441/001089 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16795/P0411/001041 - Ross-Tech Wiki

Your current problems are not caused by the alternator, but if it is noisy it should be replaced again.


V6 TIMING BELT REPLACING

When you do the timing belt, I suggest you replace the following:
A) Timing Belt
B) TB Tensioner Damper
C) TB Tensioner Roller
D) TB Idler Roller
E) Water Pump & Gasket
F) Thermostat & "O" Ring & maybe the Housing
Also consider replacing:
G) Serpentine (Accessory) belt
H) Serpentine belt Tensioner
I) Check all coolant hoses, replace if required
__________________________________________________________________

V6 CRANK LOCK PIN
The crank must be exactly at #3 TDC to get the crank lock tool in correctly, it
should screw in easily. Move the crank back & forth a little
to get it lined up, while screwing the tool in. If you have difficulty, check that #3
is at TDC, if not turn it to TDC and install lock tool.
See pics in this thread: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/42-volkswagen-passat-b5-discussion/392186-crankshaft-locking-pin-tool.html
_________________________________________________________________________________

V6 TIMING BELT

Instructions for V6 Timing Belt replacement.
I suggest you carefully, and precisely in the order listed:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
1) Turn the crank to TDC. (Cylinder #3 TDC)
2) Compress the tensioner using an Allen wrench (clockwise) in the tensioner roller, and fit the pin in the tensioner.
3) Remove the Timing Belt.
4) Turn the crank counter-clockwise to about 45 degrees before TDC. (valves can't hit pistons in this position)
5) Remove the cam pulleys, and refit leaving them just loose enough to turn freely.
6) Then use the cam lock bar to turn the exhaust cams so the large holes in the pulley plates are facing inwards (toward each other), and fit the cam locking bar.
6a) Re-check cam chain timing, correct if required. (Not necessary if chains haven't been touched)
7) Turn crank clockwise to the timing mark on crank pulley, and fit the crank lock pin.
8) Fit the water pump, thermostat, tensioner, idler roller, and tensioner roller.
9) Fit the TB on the crank pulley first, then working in a counter-clockwise direction, fit it around all the other pulleys.
Make sure the belt is tight everywhere except the section that goes over the tensioner roller.
10) Release the load on the pin in the tensioner with an Allen wrench in the pulley (clockwise), remove the pin.
11) Allow a couple of minutes for the tensioner to extend, then pretension the TB, using a torque wrench in the tensioner roller turn counter-clockwise to a torque of 132in-lbs (15Nm).
12) Tighten the cam pulley bolts to 41ft-lbs (55Nm). (With cam bar still installed)
13) Remove the cam locking bar and crank lock pin.
14) Carefully turn crank 2 full turns back to TDC and recheck timing.
15) Put the rest of the car back together and go for a drive.

If you have any concerns about this, please ask before proceeding.
__________________________________________________________________________________

CAM CHAIN TIMING
If any cam has been, or is going to be removed.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
A) After setting the crank to 30-60 degrees before TDC. (See above) Install the cams and set them to the timing marks with the chain fitted correctly. (16 roller count see diagram)
You can fit the cam pulley holding plates to the exhaust cams, and use the cam locking bar to turn the cams.
B) After all 4 cams are correctly aligned to the timing marks as in photo, and the chains are correct. Fit the cam locking bar.
C) Turn the crank clockwise to TDC and fit the crank lock pin.
D) Fit the timing belt etc.

Check the pics in this thread to see how you can have the chain timing wrong with the timing
marks aligned and the bar installed. http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-garage/387417-30v-v6-cam-chain-16-links-take-look.html Post #1 Timing is wrong, Post
#8 Timing is correct. (This is bank 2)

 

[Steve in Chicago]

A replacement alternator should not whine, make sound or sound like a turbo. It doesn't need to break in. If your alternator sounds any different from every other car you see driving around, there is something wrong with your alternator or its installation.

 

[99vdubpassat]

I just updated all the definitions of all the codes i have in the previous post. Hopefully if its not raining or snowing tomorrow i can get started. I'm just hoping I don't have any bent valves. It started misfiring after downshifting in tiptronic to get more power trying to pass somebody on my way down the highway and once again when i was slowing down to make the uturn. After making the uturn i pulled over the and engine wasn't act weird, the only thing I noticed was a burning smell, smoke on passenger side and I quickly drove it home. It didn't misfire on the way back and it wasn't making weird sounds, it just drove fine. The wine from the alternator is only heard when the car is idling, as soon as I start driving the wine disappears. If a car has some bent valves, wouldn't it be more noticeable?

 

[vbora01]

Its really apparent that your cam chain tensioner has failed. This would in effect alter the timing on the intake cam, hence your code for the cam position sensor and misfire issues. Engine wouldn't start or would run a hell of a lot rougher if valves were bent. Only way you can really tell if valves are bent is if you do a compression (or leak down?) Test on all cylinders.

Don't start the car, period. You have a hole exposing engine internal components. Obviously that hole got there from a mechanical failure, because holes don't just happen. Time to start calling friends for rides until its fixed.

Also, I'm surprised nobody else said it but... If you see smoke coming from your engine bay, your first instinct should be to stop and pull over and shut the engine off, not drive harder to get home. Lucky it was just that and not completely engulfed in flames. The fuel line passes right over that area, that's the only reason why I'd advise that. All circumstantial advice though, I'd be reluctant to call for a tow as a college student myself. I also know what it feels like to not have my car running. The flex vehicle in my family is a 6.0l V8 Chevy, great truck... Just not the 12-14 city mpg, which I had to work two hours of my shift just to pay off the commute to work over the summer!

 

[Tomvw]

As I stated earlier; YOU SHOULD NOT START OR EVEN CRANK THE ENGINE, until after you have fixed all timing related issues.
SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE COULD RESULT.

 

[99vdubpassat]

Okay, so before I go replacing the timing belt I just want to check the marks on the cam chain to see if or how many teeth the chain skipped. Do I need the cam lock bar when I put the engine at TDC to check the marks on the cams? How to put the engine at TDC? If the chain/cam is off by 1 or 2 teeth, how do you put it back in time? I want to do a compression test before spending a ton of $$ on new parts, so I guess I'll just have to wait till I make sure the cams are aligned properly. Any other tools I would need?

 

[Tomvw]

The crank pulley timing marks are not very accurate, you need the crank lock pin installed to be sure it is at TDC.
You will need a 12 point (22mm or 24mm not sure) socket to turn the crank.
Other than those you don't need any special tools to check the timing, but you will need the cam lock bar if you remove the timing belt.

 

[99vdubpassat]

Took off the vc earlier today and found the shoe to the tensioner in pieces.