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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As shown on this video at 10:00 min, does the "outer inner race" have to be removed or is it just extra precautionary check? I'm sure it is good practice, but I am doing this on the weekend and will not have access to a shop or press.


 

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That video has been removed...
Hard to tell what part you're talking about. But when you buy the bearing you get the bearing which has an inner and outer race with the balls between.
Sometimes it breaks upon removal, depending what tools you use, and the inner race is stuck on the axle or the outer race is stuck in the hub, is that what you are referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think that is exactly what I am referring to. In the video, which is available on Youtube as "Audi B5: Front Wheel Bearing Part 1 (Removal)", the tech removes (pulls) the hub using a couple long bolt threaded through the hub. He then uses a front wheel drive bearing tool to drive out the bearing from the knuckle. Then he goes to a press to press out what he is calling the "outer inner race". As you say, what he is referring to is the inner race of the bearing assembly as it will sometimes come out with the hub? That makes sense. I guess that answers my question as well that the inner race will obviously need removed. I guess I will just have to wait and see if the inner race requires a press/dremel/or other to remove from the hub if that's where it ends up after removal. This makes way more sense now, thanks.
 

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When we did our b5.5, one side the inner race was still on the axle, the other side the bearing stayed together. Spray it all with WD40 or equivalent before attempting to remove it and maybe they'll come out in one piece. If not you just need to remove the out race from the hub carrier/knuckle using the front wheel bearing kit, I think we removed the inner race from the axle by digging/prying with screwdrivers/pliers....
 

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I am confused over the bearing question. I have a B5.5 with AWM engine. I pulled the knuckle from the passenger side, this is what I had:
20180904_181257.jpg
and went to hammer out the hub using a socket. This is what happened:
20180904_181751.jpg
I can get that bearing race off of the hub with a bearing splitter. But I still have a bearing in the knuckle:
20180904_181713.jpg
Well, I actually have the other half of the bearing that came out, plus there is what I would consider to be the wheel bearing in there. I only ordered one bearing from ECS, and I don't know which one it is.
I plan on taking the knuckle to a shop to have the bearing pressed out, and the new one pressed in. Do I need to order more bearings? Do I need a new hub?
Thanks
 

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The hub should be OK unless you damaged it during removal. The machine shop will let you know!

Your question seems to be: are there one or two bearings in that knuckle? The answer is only one, but it is a dual-groove type with separate inner races so it can be assembled at the bearing factory, and that's why you see one inner race and set of balls on the hub. Take your new bearing, knuckle, and hub to the machine shop where they will press them together. Personally, I also clean those parts prior to taking to the shop.
 

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ylwagon is correct,

It is a single bearing that has double row ball bearing construction. The bearing is in two pieces for manufacturing and assembly purposes only.

Engine codes: AEB, ATW, and AUG it will be 75mm bearing.
Engine code: AWM will be 82mm bearing.
All V6's are 82mm bearing.

The pressing out and pressing in of the wheel bearing is a two step process. The wheel bearing hub (piece the wheel bolts to) gets pressed out first from the back side of the steering knuckle and then the bearing gets pressed out of the steering knuckle (upright) from the side the wheel is mounted.
Installation is reverse of disassembly.

To do the job correctly a set of plugs (two solid round chunks on the left) are needed to push the bearings in and out. Here's a set of plugs I made for when I use a hydraulic press. Yes I have the fortunate ability to have a very wide array of machines and tools at my disposal. On top of the ones I have at home.

 

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I used a 12" x 5/8" threaded rod, matching nuts and variety of large round washers to remove and replace the hub and inner bearing from the knuckle thus I did not need to remove the knuckle from the car or use a press. Bought all those misc parts, including up to 3" diameter washer at local hardware store for about $10.
 

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I wish this photo was widely available (I guess now it is). The ECS photo of the bearing doesn't give the impression it is double thick. I will definitely clean everything up before taking it to the sop, I like my mechanic. I also always bring pie (we run a pie store).
Thanks for the info and pic.
 

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northcountryguy1 - I know there are several methods available for taking the bearing out/putting in. I am tired of beating myself up w/o the proper tools. ALMOST bought a Harbor Freight press this week but opted for a portable compressor instead. My mechanic will do it for me in no time and we will both be happier. He will get a pie, I will get the work done :). I replaced all of the suspension parts last fall, so getting the knuckle off was no big deal.

I still may get a press anyway. They are handy for straightening out parts that get bent around the farm
 

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ylwagon - Thanks for the explanation. What do you clean the parts with? Do you just wash them, or do you actually sand off crud? I do hope the noise from the wheel is actually the bearing. I replaced the axle 2 years ago, but used a duralast replacement. This Passat is now only a backup car/project, so I wasn't too concerned with how long the axle would last. If it really has only lasted 2 years I will have learned my lesson about not using Raxles.
 

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Just your basic cleansers and detergents, unless there is rust, in which case I would steel wool that off as much as possible. Now I have to say, there are those of us who spend more time on the bitcheness of how the parts look than on the actual repair, AndreasPassat being one, but I'm not far behind, I'm afraid to admit.
 

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Now I have to say, there are those of us who spend more time on the bitcheness of how the parts look than on the actual repair, AndreasPassat being one, but I'm not far behind, I'm afraid to admit.

This wouldn't have anything to do with me pulling the engine/trans just to soda blast the aluminum now would it? :whistle:
 
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Hi AndreasPassat- how is life in AZ? We miss you in WI- although we had a 90 degree day yesterday and that is toasty for Sept in WI! (I know- not much sympathy from you AZ folks).

My apologies to OP for hopping on here, but I think it is relevant. I have a 2003 Passat wagon 1.8T AWM and am getting a lot of clunking noise from driver's side wheel. Pretty sure it is the wheel bearing. I replaced the suspension a couple years ago, so removing the steering knuckle wouldn't be a major issue. But, I would like to press out that bearing, and press in a new one without removing the knuckle. Some folks have used the Harbor Freight wheel bearing removal set and it looks to work pretty well. AndreasPassat- you were super helpful in my timing belt disaster- is the best approach to just remove the knuckle and take it to a machine shop, or do I stand a chance leaving it on car and using a tool to press it out?

BTW, my Passat is running very well. Now has 10,000 miles since top end rebuild. Still running very smoothly, using no oil and a joy to drive. Had to install a used tailgate due to issues of paint peeling on the old one. I had it repaired after getting "rear ended" by a Jeep. Only bent in the tailgate and did not touch the bumper. Anyway, the shop that repaired the tailgate used a lot of Bondo and did a crapola job on painting. I found a used tailgate in Hortonville, WI for $95. Looks great- same color and the rear latch works better than my old one. Weird thing though- the wiper sits on the pass side and swipes counter-clockwise. That was a head scratcher!

Thanks!
 

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...am getting a lot of clunking noise from driver's side wheel. Pretty sure it is the wheel bearing.
You may find the clunking noise due to something else, but jack the wheel off the ground, and try to rock it to determine if the bearing is shot.
 

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Hi AndreasPassat- how is life in AZ? We miss you in WI- although we had a 90 degree day yesterday and that is toasty for Sept in WI! (I know- not much sympathy from you AZ folks).

My apologies to OP for hopping on here, but I think it is relevant. I have a 2003 Passat wagon 1.8T AWM and am getting a lot of clunking noise from driver's side wheel. Pretty sure it is the wheel bearing. I replaced the suspension a couple years ago, so removing the steering knuckle wouldn't be a major issue. But, I would like to press out that bearing, and press in a new one without removing the knuckle. Some folks have used the Harbor Freight wheel bearing removal set and it looks to work pretty well. AndreasPassat- you were super helpful in my timing belt disaster- is the best approach to just remove the knuckle and take it to a machine shop, or do I stand a chance leaving it on car and using a tool to press it out?

BTW, my Passat is running very well. Now has 10,000 miles since top end rebuild. Still running very smoothly, using no oil and a joy to drive. Had to install a used tailgate due to issues of paint peeling on the old one. I had it repaired after getting "rear ended" by a Jeep. Only bent in the tailgate and did not touch the bumper. Anyway, the shop that repaired the tailgate used a lot of Bondo and did a crapola job on painting. I found a used tailgate in Hortonville, WI for $95. Looks great- same color and the rear latch works better than my old one. Weird thing though- the wiper sits on the pass side and swipes counter-clockwise. That was a head scratcher!

Thanks!
I'm missed in WI! Wow, I'm impressed.


You may find the clunking noise due to something else, but jack the wheel off the ground, and try to rock it to determine if the bearing is shot.

ylwagon has good advice, jack up the car and try rocking the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock positions.
That will reveal either a ball joint and or bushing (many to choose from) and a wheel bearing. If it's a wheel bearing it will rock the same amount all the way around (at 3 & 9, 12 & 6 o'clock positions and anywhere in between).

Ball joints are a little more difficult to find unless they are ready to fall apart. Having a second person to check ball joints is a huge bonus.
While one watches the other can pry, twist on each ball joint to find which one is the culprit.

As far as removing the knuckle from the car vs pressing the bearing(s) in and out while the knuckle is still installed?
Personally I think it's a matter of preference or just how much or how little effort someone will go to get the job done. Me personally, I remove the knuckle because I know a hydraulic press is going to seat the bearing(s) fully 100%. Not saying it can't be done with tools from Harbor Freight or wherever, but sometimes the bearings may not get seated 100% and when you go to tighten up the axle the amount of pre-load on the bearing will be excessive and premature bearing failure WILL occur. I have the luxury of all kinds of machines and equipment at my disposal and for me, turning a couple extra screws is no big deal to take out the knuckle and slap it in a press and have the old bearings pressed out and the new pressed in about 20 minutes time, that's for both together. If you have a connection at a machine or speed shop or a friend with a press I would go that route.
If you don't have that ability, using the Harbor Freight tool method will work, just make sure the bearing is FULLY seated.
 

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This may not belong on this thread, but I am throwing it in anyway....
When I went to put my knuckle back on I found the hex key fitting on the ball joint in the lower front control arm was a little bunged up. I couldn't hold it in place with a hex key that I hammered into it (I didn't try a hex socket and wrench, forgot I owned one). My solution was to put a bottle jack under the control arm and raise it up to put pressure on the ball joint. That held it in place when I tightened the nut.
Just my 2 cents on helping a frustrating problem.
 
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