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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All. I have a 2003 Passat wagon 1.8T, FWD, Manual transmission with ABS errors on the dash. Also, the traction control light is illuminated. I used VCDS-Lite to see the fault codes:

01435 Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201), 48-10 Supply Voltage - Intermittent.

I have had a number of issues with the ABS in the past 2 years. Replaced the ABS wheel sensors a few times, and sent the ABS electronic module to a well known vendor for repair (twice) and I am still having intermittent issues. ABS functionality is disabled when the light appears, as you'd expect.

The frustration is the lack of information on these Bosch 5.7 ABS units. In searching for alternatives (rebuilt Dorman units-- I bought one I thought would fit, but no luck..., or new units from ECS Tuning, RockAuto, FCP Euro, etc.) there seems to be a lack of information on these units and only new units being sold.

The ABS electronic module has a part # 0265950081 - this is the Bosch part.

The hydraulic block has a part # 4B0614517P

My VIN is WVWVD63B73E074789

Does anyone have access to VW's ETKA to see if there is a new part number for the ABS Bosch part # 0265950081 ? Is there any Bosch database that shows which versions were used in various cars?

Thank you.

ORIG ABS.jpg

abs2.jpg

abs3.jpg
 

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If you've replaced the sensors multiple AND rebuilt your module more than once, I suspect doing so again won't solve your problems. I'd be thinking intermittent wiring issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Scott. Thank you for your post. I just bought another Bosch 5.7 electronic module on eBay for $50 with the same part number I have (0265950081). I can now remove and replace the ABS electronic module in 1 hour or less. So we will see. I will post updates this weekend.

Hopefully it is not an issue with a wire. That would be nearly impossible to find. I had a BMW E46 convertible with issues lowering the top. It took me a month to find the frayed wire and I told myself I would never chase that mess again.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finally had time last night to remove the original ABS module and install the module I bought on eBay. I paid $50 for it, and it arrived in a thin plastic envelope with no packing material surrounding it. It was not physically banged up, but I figured the electronics were banged up from shipping. Decided to just try it and see before going bananas on the eBay seller.

Installed it last night, used VCDS-Lite to reset the ABS module and code correctly. Everything went well. Took it for a drive and no ABS light and no Traction Control light! Drove it to the office today and still no lights. Amazing.

We will see how long it lasts. Now onto the flex pipe replacement, and half axle from Raxles that blew a rubber boot. Marty said to send it back for warranty repair. What a great company and a great guy.

Wagon is still running strong at 160k miles. Will update with any changes. Thanks for looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks VAGguy! I received all the parts for the exhaust flex pipe replacement. I did this 4 years ago- I remember trying to squeeze the catalytic converter down through the engine area. Should I unbolt the pipe in the middle of the wagon, and also unbolt from the cat, then pull UP through engine compartment? I've read that is what some folks have done. Can't believe this flex pipe goes bad in such a short time.
 

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If you've replaced flex joints in 4 years time, you might want to check all of your mounting points for the engine and transmission.
My '98 GLS V6 still have the original flex joints. Albeit they need replacing right now, but only because I (recently) ran something over on the freeway and ripped the drivers side joint wide open.
 

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Thanks VAGguy! I received all the parts for the exhaust flex pipe replacement. I did this 4 years ago- I remember trying to squeeze the catalytic converter down through the engine area. Should I unbolt the pipe in the middle of the wagon, and also unbolt from the cat, then pull UP through engine compartment? I've read that is what some folks have done. Can't believe this flex pipe goes bad in such a short time.
I unbolted from the middle and also unbolted the cat from the turbo. Then I brought it all out from the top. It's damn near impossible (you don't need to take that as a challenge) to unbolt the down pipe from the cat in situ.

It shouldn't go bad in a short time. Look for what caused it. Usually worn engine and trans mounts. I replaced mine for the first time at 155k. Wasn't rusted, it just finally flexed enough to crack the bellows and cause a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks VAGguy and AndreasPassat. I finally found the time to do the 1. Flex Pipe, 2. Driver's axle, 3. O2 sensor furthest back, 4. Oil Service.

The flex pipe was a nightmare, and I have done that once already. All bolts were rusted (I am in WI) and needed to be cut off with angle grinder. Getting the catalytic converter + flex pipe out via the engine compartment was very difficult. The manual cars have a metal tab welded to the flex pipe, and this causes issues when trying to pull it up through the engine bay. I made the mistake of bolting the new flex pipe incorrectly, but pushed it down the engine bay, and it would not turn. Figured out what I did wrong, and barely got it to come out. Need to buy one bolt for that hanger, otherwise, it went in with my wife's help. Nearly destroyed the new O2 sensor when trying to get cat and pipe pushed back down.

The CV axle was pretty easy. Sent the damaged one back to RAXLES for repair.

Oil Service was smooth. Found a few (5) black plastic pieces (size of an Apple watch round button and smaller) in the oil. No idea if those pieces were already in my pan. I'm not going to freak out about it. This car is nearing the end. I;m wondering if these pieces came from the black plastic cover that sits over the intake cam???

OK, so started up car, reset check engine light (from bad O2 sensor), and noticed a little rough idle. Drove it for a few mins and check engine light came on. First one was P0300 random multiple cylinder misfire detected. and P0302. Reset those, drove care, seemed to drive just fine. Idle was now consistent and good. Then got a check engine light P0011 camshaft position advanced... A few months ago, I replaced the round actuator that attaches to the end of the camshaft, and I also replaced the camshaft position sensor (CPS). Timing was spot on at that point, and the cause of the destroyed CPS was the round actuator that was slightly bent (when I did the head job on car 2 yrs ago.) I bent it back 2 yrs ago, and it was running just fine until a few months ago.

I am not driving it right now. Next step will be to pop off timing belt cover and see if there is anything going on with timing and the CPS or actuator. I will not be going deeper if those things check out. Hopefully a simple problem. If the camshaft chain tensioner is messed up, I am not inclined to fix it-- likely I will sell the car as is and move on.

Will keep you all posted! Thanks.


Here is a pic of the cams and tensioner in the summer of 2017 after the head work, etc. Sorry for the huge pic!

97383
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I checked the Camshaft Position Sensor and the round thin metal actuator, and both looked great. I cleaned off the sensor on the CPS, checked timing and all looked good. The crankshaft was advanced an 1/8th of an inch, but I don't think it is enough to warrant one tooth change on the timing belt. It runs very smoothly now. Just need to put some miles on it to see if the check engine light reappears. Since I just changed the oil, I wonder if new oil would affect the camshaft chain adjuster for a few minutes as new fresh oil makes its way up to the adjuster. Will keep you posted.
 

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If the crankshaft is advanced, the timing is off. The crank should be spot on and the cam should be slightly ahead (1/2 tooth) of the mark or right on the mark for an older belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks PZ. I will fix the timing one of these days. Probably have to wait until my garage is built this October. Not looking forward to peeling apart the engine again (head job and TB replacement 15k miles ago. But I’ve done it before so I can do it again!

I had a hard time seeing the mark on the crank, so I will get a mirror and confirm that then crank is a little advanced compared to the cam sprocket.

I wonder if fresh oil was the culprit that monkeyed with the cam tensioner, causing the timing chain to skip?

Will update you all later. Thanks.


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I wonder if fresh oil was the culprit that monkeyed with the cam tensioner, causing the timing chain to skip?

as to connecting chain between the E.Cam and I.Cam (16 roller spacing) as long as pads are intact, it is highly unlikely the chain "skipped" a tooth there, As to plastic in oil more than likely a piece from the windage tray is the culprit
 

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The chain would need a lot of slop to skip a tooth. It would make a hell of a racket slapping the underside of the valve cover. I've witnessed a missing shoe on a tensioner (friends car) without it skipping time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi All. Update on Passat ABS headaches. I bought a used ABS module from eBay, and it works great. No ABS lights, and all operates perfectly. Installed new flex pipe, replaced driver's axle, changed oil and filter. Car is running better than new. I may have to sell it in the coming month, as daughter is buying a Q3 and we will have to shift cars. If anyone has an interest in a 2003 Passat GLS wagon with leather, 162k miles, heated seats, 5 speed!, very good condition. No CELs. Looking to start at $2000 but really want it to go a good home. Has a little surface rust behind rear wheels but is mostly free of dings. Car is located in Wauwatosa, WI. New Hella headlights, trailer hitch and Blizzaks mounted on steel wheels. https://flic.kr/p/YHjFYc
 
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