[VAGguy]

That looks like the one when I plugged it into the ole search machine for cross reference.

SCHAEFFLER MP0015 cross reference - Google Search

Audi BMW Porsche Clutch Pilot Bearing - INA 4100015100

Audi BMW Porsche Clutch Pilot Bearing - INA 4100015100

www.fcpeuro.com

INA is a good bearing and a division of Schaeffler.

 

[azimmerman]

That looks like the one when I plugged it into the ole search machine for cross reference.

SCHAEFFLER MP0015 cross reference - Google Search

Audi BMW Porsche Clutch Pilot Bearing - INA 4100015100

Audi BMW Porsche Clutch Pilot Bearing - INA 4100015100

www.fcpeuro.com

INA is a good bearing and a division of Schaeffler.

Great, thanks for the confirmation. I was pretty sure it was a match, but I was surprised I could get it for a little over $3 where the 034105313A kept coming back as >$20. Time to order!

 

[azimmerman]

I am 10 minutes away from finishing my swap and I am impossibly stuck on the clutch slave hard line. I foolishly ignored the advice of many to upgrade to a braided line, but I have succeeded in positioning everything from the transmission to the pedals. The only thing left is to connect the hard line to the slave cylinder. I have the hard line in place (without removing the brake booster or brake master cylinder) and thought I had the hard line in, but it disconnected after I bled and pushed the clutch for the first time (I pressure bled the system). FOR THE LIFE OF ME I cannot get the hard line to connect to the slave cylinder. Is there a special trick to this I am not aware of? I have been through the Bentley and haven't seen any useful information on the issue. I am afraid of destroying things if I push any harder.

 

[VAGguy]

It should be a push in fitting with a clip to hold it in. You have the clip installed and it still popped off?

 

[azimmerman]

It should be a push in fitting with a clip to hold it in. You have the clip installed and it still popped off?

The clip was installed at one point, but I suspect I didn't have the line inserted all the way into the cylinder and thus the clip was unable to hold under pressure.

 

[PZ]

Pull the line out enough to check the end for any damage/burring, then just wipe it down and try to line it up perfectly.

 

[azimmerman]

I snapped these pics today. This is as far as it seems to go "easily" (don't mind the tool marks from me giving this line everything I have). Is this as far as it goes in? I think it should go in more so the pin can prevent backing out, but maybe I am wrong.

 

[PZ]

It looks like it's on an angle, try twisting the metal a bit to line it up better.

 

[azimmerman]

It looks like it's on an angle, try twisting the metal a bit to line it up better.

🙏 I will make this effort next. Thank you for the advice.

 

[PZ]

I've had similar issues with clutch and brake lines before. I know it's a bear to get the B5 replacement line in. The clutch line has a funnel shape at the end where the clip engages and it looks like that is still protruding on your line.

 

[azimmerman]

Ended up buying a pair of long-nosed vice grips and they did the trick! Job complete, and I am in love. It feels so much different from Tiptronic; I can hardly tell it is the same car. I had dangerously high expectations for how it would feel when it was done, and I'm amazed and ecstatic that they are all met or exceeded. Thanks everyone here for the help!

One last thing to sort out: I reused the clutch master cylinder from my donor car with 148k miles (but with a new engine at 97k!!) hoping it would be ok for at least a little while. Mistake - it has a strange catch upon depression at completely random intervals and at the end of my frolicking around the block I noticed the clutch pedal felt a little slow on the return. I see the Sachs MC are a constant problem with this car and I'm a bit surprised some searching didn't turn up any aftermarket or RS Audi upgrades. I found a thread here about a rebuildable one from Europe that I like at first glance, but then since these seem prone to fail maybe I should just buy one from O'Reilly's and capitalize on their lifetime warranty. What do most people go with, and how much life are you getting out of it? I'm am hesitant to go with the OE Sachs one since it doesn't seem to hold up well and replacing it ranks among the Top 5 Worst Jobs for this car.

 

[VAGguy]

I can't remember what brand mine was, but it has been going strong for over 50k. Wasn't terribly expensive, either.

 

[AndreasPassat]

I've had extensive issues with clutch master cylinders.
I ended up taking mine apart and doing some machining work on the piston. Since then the problem has not reoccurred. That was 7 years ago.
That's as far as the moving mechanical function of it goes.

The other issue...
The clutch master cylinder has an O-ring in the bottom of where the clutch fluid hard hydraulic line snaps into, the original has a more pliable O-ring and less likely to leak.
The aftermarket ones the O-ring is slightly harder (Durometer rating) and is difficult to make a good seal. Especially when re-installing the original hard hydraulic line.
That hard line cannot be distorted or any tension on it in any way. A lot of times people will reinstall the hard line and after days, weeks the pedal drops to the floor on it's own. Because the hard line is not perfectly centered it allows air to enter the system but won't leak any oil.

There are aftermarket hydraulic line conversions that replaces the hard line with a flexible stainless steel braided line that people here in the forum have used with great success.

Here's an example.
USP Stainless Steel Clutch Line - Audi/VW (5 or 6 Speed) - USP004CL - 452

 

[AndreasPassat]

If you're interested, here's my ordeal from back when. Actually 9 years ago now, sheesh time goes by fast.

The images are long gone from Photo Bucket.
I do still have all these picture on my computer. I can reload them this weekend.

Clutch Master Cylinder number 5 - I'm gonna snap...

 

[PZ]

I installed an OEM master and an OEM line on mine when I swapped it. 9 years later, no issues, and the car was recently listed for sale again with nearly 100K added since the swap and another swap back to a V6.

 

[azimmerman]

I've had extensive issues with clutch master cylinders.
I ended up taking mine apart and doing some machining work on the piston. Since then the problem has not reoccurred. That was 7 years ago.
That's as far as the moving mechanical function of it goes.

The other issue...
The clutch master cylinder has an O-ring in the bottom of where the clutch fluid hard hydraulic line snaps into, the original has a more pliable O-ring and less likely to leak.
The aftermarket ones the O-ring is slightly harder (Durometer rating) and is difficult to make a good seal. Especially when re-installing the original hard hydraulic line.
That hard line cannot be distorted or any tension on it in any way. A lot of times people will reinstall the hard line and after days, weeks the pedal drops to the floor on it's own. Because the hard line is not perfectly centered it allows air to enter the system but won't leak any oil.

There are aftermarket hydraulic line conversions that replaces the hard line with a flexible stainless steel braided line that people here in the forum have used with great success.

Here's an example.
USP Stainless Steel Clutch Line - Audi/VW (5 or 6 Speed) - USP004CL - 452

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

AndresPassat, thanks for the additional reading; your situation came up a lot in my searches and maybe skewed my judgement on the OE Sachs one. I would also be interested in reviewing those photos if you get a chance to upload them. I do suspect I might have a tension on my hard line like you described, so I might throw my first $50 at the SS line and see what that changes. I am unsure if that will change the way the pedal returns; I went for a second test drive tonight and it engaged well but trailed behind my foot upon release, although not every time.

Also, when recoding the instrument cluster, which menu in VCDS should I look under? I assumed it would be in the "Instruments" menu, but at first glance all I saw were options to change the engine and nationality and nothing more. I either failed in coding ABS correctly or the cluster is waiting to be coded to manual to clear out the ABS light.

 

[AndreasPassat]

I reloaded the pictures for the thread that I had a link to in post #34.

There's a bit of information that I need to share here.
This modification I made to the piston inside the clutch master cylinder was done in 2014.
This same master clutch cylinder is still functional without issue.
For those that follow me, yes it's true my 1998 GLS is out of commission (for now) with a bad clutch but it has nothing to do with the master clutch cylinder.
The clutch disc itself simply wore out after about 180k miles.

 

[AndreasPassat]

Also, when recoding the instrument cluster, which menu in VCDS should I look under? I assumed it would be in the "Instruments" menu, but at first glance all I saw were options to change the engine and nationality and nothing more. I either failed in coding ABS correctly or the cluster is waiting to be coded to manual to clear out the ABS light.

I'm not very savvy at recoding. I've done some minor recoding but other more experienced people should chime in here.

 

[PZ]

I would check the ABS coding to see if it took. It's been too long for me to remember the procedures clearly.