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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Hello, I'm back. The ABS module was rebuilt and installed on the car. The ABS light is still on, unfortunately. I got to drive it around for about 5 minutes before I had to go to work and the shaking wasn't present, but every time I disconnect my battery cable for a while the shaking stops for a bit. I will keep y'all updated as I'm installing the motor mounts this weekend. Main reason for the post is this question. The ABS light is still there and I'm fairly certain the shaking has not gone away. Should I buy the vacuum pump or a vacuum gauge? I don't know if there are many more points of failure for the ABS other than the pump.
 

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Have you checked and cleaned all the ABS sensors on each axle?

Edit to add: after reading the subject of your post I would suspect the motor or trans mounts more than anything ABS-related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Have you checked and cleaned all the ABS sensors on each axle?
All 4 abs sensors have been replaced within the last year. When I changed my rear wheel hun assemblies the sensor cavity was very rusted and I wasn’t even sure it if was reading to be honest. It was so corroded and rusty. I have a suspicion it’s the same with my front wheel hub assemblies.
 

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The sensors need a clean signal and any rust or crud inside the sensor cavities will reduce the quality of the signal. I doubt that would cause the shaking when stopped but it could cause the ABS light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
The sensors need a clean signal and any rust or crud inside the sensor cavities will reduce the quality of the signal. I doubt that would cause the shaking when stopped but it could cause the ABS light.
They’re on the list to be replaced. I might try and take a drill brush into the sensor cavities
 

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you need to replace the three motor motor mounts and tranny mounts as well, ,easy to do all at once, plenty of write ups in search community, cannot just wing it ....... as to wire brushing hole ,it will not help if you have crap on the tone ring , need to look down in hole at it and blow out . My two cents is; bad tranny and motor mounts exaggerated by vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
you need to replace the three motor motor mounts and tranny mounts as well, ,easy to do all at once, plenty of write ups in search community, cannot just wing it ....... as to wire brushing hole ,it will not help if you have crap on the tone ring , need to look down in hole at it and blow out . My two cents is; bad tranny and motor mounts exaggerated by vacuum leak.
I’m using a lift this weekend for the 3 mounts. I didn’t order the tranny mounts yet. So you’re just saying to blow out the holes with air?
 

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if you can get a looksie in the hole you can see if there is any debris, yeah just blow compressed air and spin, now what I do is push in until it bottoms out against the tone ring then just wriggle it back out just a smidge, you want it as close as possible, beauty is you can do it over and over to get that smidge. Now the reason I mention tranny mounts is you probably need them as well, but the main reason is you have to un-bolt them as well to be able to install the three motor mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
if you can get a looksie in the hole you can see if there is any debris, yeah just blow compressed air and spin, now what I do is push in until it bottoms out against the tone ring then just wriggle it back out just a smidge, you want it as close as possible, beauty is you can do it over and over to get that smidge. Now the reason I mention tranny mounts is you probably need them as well, but the main reason is you have to un-bolt them as well to be able to install the three motor mounts.
Alright. What if it’s very rusty in the hole and can’t be just blown out with compressed air?Oh crap. I might as well wait until I have the trans mounts then.
 

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The tone ring is integral with the cv axle itself. the sensor in it's stainless steel carrier slides in the hole. Somebody else may chime in here to confirm but I believe if you take out axle bolt ,turn wheel you can get axle out enough to clean tone ring and wire brush the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
The tone ring is integral with the cv axle itself. the sensor in it's stainless steel carrier slides in the hole. Somebody else may chime in here to confirm but I believe if you take out axle bolt ,turn wheel you can get axle out enough to clean tone ring and wire brush the hole.
if you can get a looksie in the hole you can see if there is any debris, yeah just blow compressed air and spin, now what I do is push in until it bottoms out against the tone ring then just wriggle it back out just a smidge, you want it as close as possible, beauty is you can do it over and over to get that smidge. Now the reason I mention tranny mounts is you probably need them as well, but the main reason is you have to un-bolt them as well to be able to install the three motor mounts.
trans mounts ordered. I’ll hopefully change everything Tuesday or Wednesday
 

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hang in there, PW to the rescue..... one last thing, once bolts/nuts all installed just finger tight (don't forget front snub mount before lowering engine) start engine let idle past SAIP sequence, turn off then final tighten everything. Save all mounts and do a forensic on them. Looking forward to a successful outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
hang in there, PW to the rescue..... one last thing, once bolts/nuts all installed just finger tight (don't forget front snub mount before lowering engine) start engine let idle past SAIP sequence, turn off then final tighten everything. Save all mounts and do a forensic on them. Looking forward to a successful outcome.
Don’t I have to remove things that make the engine run to change the mounts or am I false? Or do you want me to put the stuff back on and then take it back off for final tighten?
 

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nothing has to be taken off engine per say, you just have to raise engine to allow engine mounts/bolt stems to get out of their frame perches. And to raise engine you have to remove bolts from tranny mounts and the 3 bolts from the front snub mount to allow that. Reverse procedure then finger tighten everything, then do the sequence I described, basically the engine has to ,sorta finds its "sweet spot". Then torque everything down. Only caution I stress is when you raise engine be careful as some hoses , and wiring harnesses get close to length limitations. You'll be fine just be thorough and patient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Ok
nothing has to be taken off engine per say, you just have to raise engine to allow engine mounts/bolt stems to get out of their frame perches. And to raise engine you have to remove bolts from tranny mounts and the 3 bolts from the front snub mount to allow that. Reverse procedure then finger tighten everything, then do the sequence I described, basically the engine has to ,sorta finds its "sweet spot". Then torque everything down. Only caution I stress is when you raise engine be careful as some hoses , and wiring harnesses get close to length limitations. You'll be fine just be thorough and patient.
Okay. And how will I know when the car reaches it’s “sweet spot?” Thanks for the wiring and hose tip I didn’t even think of that
 

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start up, let idle past SAIP time out , then torque all the bolts/nuts, when I say "sweet spot" engine is in its relaxed "settled poition, motor mount is not fighting the transmission mount, ,not fighting the front snub mount. And the snub mount is last ,it is visually centered.
 

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Do you have an aftermarket radio? Not all scanners will read the ABS, Airbags, or Trans.
 
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