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I have a 1998 2.8L that Im trying to replace the CV boot that has taken a sh*t all over my wheels. From what I read I need to remove the axle bolt, the question is what size hex socket do I need to use? I thought I read that it was 16mm. If its 16mm, I cant seam to find a source for a 16mm 1/2' drive hex socket.

Any words of wisdom regarding this post? Thanks in advance.. :???:
 

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i'm in the process of replacing my cv/drive shaft and couldn't figure out that axle nut size for my 1.8 manual so hopefully that 14mm will do the trick.

now on to the other part...i'm assuming where it connects to the tranny is a 10mm 12 point? and where could i buy just that and not a set? any help appreciated!


i would like my car a little more if i just always had the right size tool...:banghead:
 

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i'm in the process of replacing my cv/drive shaft and couldn't figure out that axle nut size for my 1.8 manual so hopefully that 14mm will do the trick.

now on to the other part...i'm assuming where it connects to the tranny is a 10mm 12 point? and where could i buy just that and not a set? any help appreciated!

i would like my car a little more if i just always had the right size tool...:banghead:
You should be able to find OEM brand 4-piece “Internal Wrench Set Metric”, Item 25015, 12-point tripe square driver set with sizes of 6, 8, 10, and 12mm from AutoZone cheap (around $10), and 10mm is the one you need. They also have 3-piece hex driver set with sizes of 12, 14, and 17mm for your axle bolt (also around $10), and 14mm is for 1.8T whereas 17mm is for V6. Depending on your location, O'Reilly or NAPA may have them too.
 

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i got my set at oreilly, i had a 17 mm allen 1/2" socket already luckily that was the same size for my car, and i have a 30" breaker bar that comes in handy
 

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I was curious on the axle nut size as well. I have a 2003 vw passat 1.8t with auto trans. Ive seen 14mm and 17mm as the norm but if I go onto ecs they only sell 16mm if I enter my car?
 

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I was curious on the axle nut size as well. I have a 2003 vw passat 1.8t with auto trans. Ive seen 14mm and 17mm as the norm but if I go onto ecs they only sell 16mm if I enter my car?
 

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Look to see what is on the car first. Is it an allen head bolt like in the link, or a true hex bolt head?

GermanAutoParts.com

My 04 has exactly what is on this page. Nevermind the axles, they're garbage. Mine used that bolt and 17mm allen
 

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Look to see what is on the car first. Is it an allen head bolt like in the link, or a true hex bolt head?

GermanAutoParts.com

My 04 has exactly what is on this page. Nevermind the axles, they're garbage. Mine used that bolt and 17mm allen
Ok, its listed on ecs as 16x77mm, awm only, I tried to live chat with them but it was taking too long. So it should be a 17mm allen then? And yes I checked my car, its like the one in the link. Why do you say those axles are garbage, from experience? I'm looking into replacing my passenger side myself thats why I'm wondering. Looking at autozone cardone reman. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Friends don't let friends use cheap rebuilds from the local auto parts store or lousy Chinese axles. Friends tell friends to buy raxles, because they are worth the extra money.

The reputation of auto-store rebuilds on this board is spotty, at best. Some members have gone through three or four before finding one that works. Others have reported that whatever spec book the rebuilders use can't get the length of the axle correct, leading to other problems. You buy a raxle, it'll work. They cost more because Marty does not grind joints, he replaces them, making the axle good-as-new. (The cheap Chinese new axles use a solid shaft, as opposed to the OEM hollow; everything's gotta be perfect for those to work well.)
 

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Yes, that's the one. Look at the GAP site
Bolt, 16x72mm, 17mm hex socket head
I went thru two Empi Axles from GAP and to their credit, they took them back. Bad vibration on acceleration and sitting still in drive. I ended up just reusing my OE axle.
 

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Other words of advice: you need a quality breaker bar, as you are going to be putting a truly insane amount of torque on the bolt to snug it down. A Harbor Freight cheapie is possibly not going to cut the mustard here. (I bought a Craftsman 1/2"... the shorter size, I think, as the longer one got poor reviews for breaking.) The weak points are the pivot pin and where the head attaches to the shaft. And don't even THINK of trying to use a ratchet for the final tightening.

Also, go ahead and get yourself a 3-foot length of iron or steel pipe from your local hardware store to slide over the breaker bar to extend the leverage... saves you from getting a hernia trying to lock that bolt down.
 

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Thanks everyone for the responses, whether it be directly towards me or not. I have heard so far nothing but terrible things about the empi, new or rebuilt. I will take everything into consideration. I got quoted by my vw specialist for 250 for everything for the passenger side. He does legit work. I mentioned the autozone and cardone cause both were given mix but mostly good reviews. Autozone does have good reviews on their site for the specific axle I'm looking at as well. Which is also why I'm considering them besides saving on shipping. Like every one else, if I had to money, no ? I would go with raxles. As far as the breaker bar and that stuff, I do have the harbor freight, and a metal pipe. No problems with my breaker bar so far from them. Knock on wood. I have done my control arms before and whatnot so I know I "shouldn't" use a ratchet as a breaker bar or for final tightening. Unless you dont like that ratchet. lol 140ftlbs if i read correctly for the 17mm hex and a 1/2 turn? my 3/8 drive torque wrench wont handle that. Prob rent a 1/2" from autozone. thanks again everyone.
 

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... if I had to money, no ? I would go with raxles.
To save money you can always use new CV boot kit to replace the torn boot unless your CV joint has been making noises already. Why throw a good factory drive shaft away if you only need the outer CV boot?
 

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Depends on how long the boot has been torn and whether there's been any opportunity for water to get in. I've done raxles on both sides because each time there were heavy rains while the boot was torn, not willing to risk the hassle of replacing boot only to find out my axle is shot anyways. Each of mine had noise, but I'd have probably gone raxles regardless.

In this case, if you can DIY...why pay someone $250 when you can get a raxle for less than that? Especially if money is tight, you save the ~$30 difference and have peace of mind with known quality.
 

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I've always bought regular auto parts axles for ~$75 ea and I never had any problems with them...chipped also currently at 360k km.
 

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Other words of advice: you need a quality breaker bar, as you are going to be putting a truly insane amount of torque on the bolt to snug it down. A Harbor Freight cheapie is possibly not going to cut the mustard here. (I bought a Craftsman 1/2"... the shorter size, I think, as the longer one got poor reviews for breaking.) The weak points are the pivot pin and where the head attaches to the shaft. And don't even THINK of trying to use a ratchet for the final tightening.

Also, go ahead and get yourself a 3-foot length of iron or steel pipe from your local hardware store to slide over the breaker bar to extend the leverage... saves you from getting a hernia trying to lock that bolt down.
Yeah don’t even try to use the breaker bar from Harbor Freight Tools. I tried and it “flexed” too much. I then used a Craftsman with a 5-foot steel pipe to accomplish the task.

Depends on how long the boot has been torn and whether there's been any opportunity for water to get in. I've done raxles on both sides because each time there were heavy rains while the boot was torn, not willing to risk the hassle of replacing boot only to find out my axle is shot anyways. Each of mine had noise, but I'd have probably gone raxles regardless.
When I replaced both sides of my outer CV boots, the passenger side had torn for more than 18 months and 10000+ miles and driver side torn for about 6 months. Both CV joints looked fine. Of course both joints didn’t make any noises at any circumstances when I replaced the boots. These factory CV joints are tough!
 
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