They're called Oetiker clamps. A cut-off wheel in a rotary wheel is a good choice; better still is the correct tool. One way, it squeezes the clamp on; turn it 90 degrees, and it cuts them off. Once you get used to it, it's faster and easier than regular screw clamps - and the clamps don't have sharp edges to cut yourself on. Holds better, too. With a bit of digging, you should be able to get one for $20 or so. I bought mine with an assortment of replacement clamps, and I use it all the time.
AUG Engine PCV work in progress/ Cracked L Breather Tube
3
my 2001 1.8T AUG engine is due for its first ever PCV system maintenance.
I found a cracked L breather tube.
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Although it is possible the crack was resulted from my brute force to remove this thing (both my breather tube and orange engine oil dip tube broke into two piece), I am inclined to believe that the crack has been there for at least a couple of years.
BTW, how do you guys remove those one-time VW clamps? I use rotary tool to cut them. But when it cut through the clamp ear, a few of clamp has a half of ear fall off and disappeared. I hate to have broken parts disappear on me - don't know where they will end up (don't like they landing on some moving parts - axles, transmission, differential ....)
Should I really be worried here?
Do you guys replace VW clamp with generic hose clamps? any recommendation for where to get them?
With all nasty sludge in the L breather tube, I guess my PCV valve has clogged/failed (although I don't know how to test it) for a while.
The crack on breather tube explains
(1) I never really see a high pressure building in my engine (no wooshiii escaping air when I open my engine oil fill cap while engine is running)
(2) dripping oil from the driver side of my 1.8T engine (the oil trace actually starts from above my oil cooler/oil filter housing which is where the above L breather tube goes into)
I found a cracked L breather tube.
Although it is possible the crack was resulted from my brute force to remove this thing (both my breather tube and orange engine oil dip tube broke into two piece), I am inclined to believe that the crack has been there for at least a couple of years.
BTW, how do you guys remove those one-time VW clamps? I use rotary tool to cut them. But when it cut through the clamp ear, a few of clamp has a half of ear fall off and disappeared. I hate to have broken parts disappear on me - don't know where they will end up (don't like they landing on some moving parts - axles, transmission, differential ....)
Should I really be worried here?
Do you guys replace VW clamp with generic hose clamps? any recommendation for where to get them?
With all nasty sludge in the L breather tube, I guess my PCV valve has clogged/failed (although I don't know how to test it) for a while.
The crack on breather tube explains
(1) I never really see a high pressure building in my engine (no wooshiii escaping air when I open my engine oil fill cap while engine is running)
(2) dripping oil from the driver side of my 1.8T engine (the oil trace actually starts from above my oil cooler/oil filter housing which is where the above L breather tube goes into)
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
I am almost done with my PCV / Vacuum Hose related maintenance. I learned a lesson that without proper clamp on hand it could become a job stopper.
I spend a great deal of time pick and bought all the parts ahead of time but left out almost all the clamps, thinking I can get them either at dealer or at hardware store.
(1) dealer don't actually use crimp clamp themselves (I found out at my local Ardmore PA VW dealer). they generally use screw clamps whenever they can (which are the same which my local Autozone / or other hardware stores stock). Just don't use Harbor Freight screw clamps - appear the same but very low quality and their screw heads RUST
(2) dealer only has some crimp clamp available (with they use on lines require higher tension or some other design consideration). For example, for diagram blow, dealer have clamp #14 / #8 (all are same size with 31.0 stamp on the clamp itself).
dealer stock this one for a reason - at this size range, regular screw clamps at local stores or my VW dealer would be 12mm wide. and those rubber pieces fit better with 9mm wide clamps. So my dealer has plenty of that particular clamp in stock.
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Next time, I would buy appropriate clamps ahead of time, knowing that I might not be able to find appropriate ones locally (including stealership).
I spend a great deal of time pick and bought all the parts ahead of time but left out almost all the clamps, thinking I can get them either at dealer or at hardware store.
(1) dealer don't actually use crimp clamp themselves (I found out at my local Ardmore PA VW dealer). they generally use screw clamps whenever they can (which are the same which my local Autozone / or other hardware stores stock). Just don't use Harbor Freight screw clamps - appear the same but very low quality and their screw heads RUST
(2) dealer only has some crimp clamp available (with they use on lines require higher tension or some other design consideration). For example, for diagram blow, dealer have clamp #14 / #8 (all are same size with 31.0 stamp on the clamp itself).
dealer stock this one for a reason - at this size range, regular screw clamps at local stores or my VW dealer would be 12mm wide. and those rubber pieces fit better with 9mm wide clamps. So my dealer has plenty of that particular clamp in stock.
Next time, I would buy appropriate clamps ahead of time, knowing that I might not be able to find appropriate ones locally (including stealership).
before the L breather hose replacement, I have oil leak like this -
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after PCV system service, another engine bay wash, and 250 miles, still dry and clean,
after PCV system service, another engine bay wash, and 250 miles, still dry and clean,
the check valve connecting to the Y hose looks like this
I am surprised to find that it is still functional (air flows only one way). so maybe it is not necessary to replace any at all unless proven failed.
BTW, for my AUG engine, ETKA (in our PW infobase) shows a part number 058 133 784 A. But somehow in my engine bay I got 058 133 784 Q. they are slightly different in shape and not interchangeable.
We have a few listings for #2 band wise - If you are looking for a full refresh kit we have that available too!
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