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Discussion Starter #1
With the clear majority of "oil type posts relating to 1.8T SLUDGE Issues", for those of us who have a 6cyl ATQ engine either stick or TIP, or even 8 cyl W8's I've read only a few posts which have indicated that even NOT using a VW 502 approved oil is OK as long as one is "Not a Hard Driver"; even to the point of using a conventional oil. With a LARGER engine than the 1.8 TURBO and NOT hard driving, what type of oil is SAFE? (Not trying to nickel and dime it tho!)

Think it would help put the proper perspective for those NON 1.8 Turbo owners that wade thru oil posts.

Thanks for your specific responses:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Actually I think I've read ALL the posts, newbie notwithstanding, going back a few YEARS:D :D

Thank you for your response.:thumbup: ;)

Unfortunately it doesn't answer my question.:cool:
If you've read ALL the posts, then you should know what oil is "SAFE" - VW spec. 502.00 oil. If you use oil other than what VW requires, VW can deny warranty service for problems that can be tied to the oil.

If you are out of warranty, use whatever oil you desire. It's your car. IMHO, it really doesn't matter whether you use synthetic, dino, or VW 502.00 in the V6. What is critical for all engines is the OCI and the weight of the oil used.

If you are "not trying to nickel and dime it tho", why not use what VW recommends? - VW spec. 502.00
 

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If you've read ALL the posts, then you should know what oil is "SAFE" - VW spec. 502.00 oil. If you use oil other than what VW requires, VW can deny warranty service for problems that can be tied to the oil.

If you are out of warranty, use whatever oil you desire. It's your car. IMHO, it really doesn't matter whether you use synthetic, dino, or VW 502.00 in the V6. What is critical for all engines is the OCI and the weight of the oil used.

If you are "not trying to nickel and dime it tho", why not use what VW recommends? - VW spec. 502.00
Thanks Ken (one of the stalwarts of PW):) for the CONFIRMATION.

FYI Altho it is out of factory warranty, I do have an aftermarket excess warranty policy for mechanical breakdown that's the first of 100,000 miles or 4 yrs which I used successfully for a torned CV Boot. Before I became aware of PW, I used Shell Rotella Full Synthetic 5w40 and then changed recently from it due to some posts indicating a potential catalytic converter problem down the road due to unburnt oil??? There are some posters who've had no problems with it for over 50,000 miles +. BUT with the cost of a catalytic converter I didn't feel it was worth maintaining use of the Rotella 5w40.

And then after lots of digging on PW, I unearthed some very positive, specific commentary from I think NM+ who also has a B5.5 ATQ but a Tiptronic and as I recall he? or someone (perhaps you!) indicated that the V6 was NOT as demanding of adhering to the VW 502 approved list as turbos.

Reading people's experience with the SLUDGE issue apparently solely related to the 4cyl 1.8L Turbo's will scare the daylights out of any Passat owner - even a V6'er without a discerning mind!

So I just started using Valvoline Full Synthetic (Synpower) 10W30 which is not on VW's 502 list but would seem very close. Tried to get their Synpower 5W40 but locally unavailabe for full oil change. Important note: I live in San Diego by the coast with a year round temperate climate: with no more than a few days of the year with overnight freeze (garaged anyway!) and summer temps in 70-80's whereas inland San Diego lots of freezing nights with summer temps easily 90 deg +). And checking that out on Valvoline website which asks the mileage and ZIP code that unless I typically tow a load and/or have modifications of a high performance nature, NONE of which is applicable in my situation, nor is stop and go street traffic, THEN I think??? I'll be fine using the Valvoline Synpower 10W30 with oil and filter changes under 5,000 miles doing 95% non peak hr freeway driving or long leisure trip drives).
 

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2002 V6 4Mo Sedan (Tip - Obviously) and a 2003 1.8T 5M Variant

Both are running Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (aka German Castrol) year round. Prior to that, both ran Mobil 1 0W-40 year round. Gets HOT here in the summer and COLD in the winter.

I don't run them because they are on the 502 list, but rather because they are great oils that are affordably priced (for Synthetics) AND readily available.

Both cars are on a 5k OCI. Heat causes oil to breakdown - so make sure that you change your coolant every couple of years too.

Good luck with your ride.
 

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If your extended warranty covers the internally lubricated parts of the engine and requires you to follow the manufacturer's maintenance requirements, I'd definately try to find VW spec. oil and keep all receipts. Although, quite frankly I doubt you will have any oil related engine problems with the V6 as long as you follow a good OCI.

As far as Rotella specifically being linked to a converter problem seems far fetched. The car probably had bad valve guides, rings etc. that allowed oil to be sucked into the cylinder and henced damaged the cats.

I also have a hard time finding VW spec. oil in the local stores. I usually use 10W40 Mobil 1 for my V6 (131k original owner miles) which I can get at Wal-Mart. I used dino oil for the first 5 1/2 years and only switched to synthetic about 2 + years ago.

There has been a lot of discussion on when VW exclusively required the use of 502.00 oil. I know my 2000 owner's manual specs 502.00 oil but the wording is such that it unclear whether it should be used exclusively to meet the maintenance requirements. In fact, I know the VW dealer used dino oil in my car for the first 4 oil changes which were free. Anyways, I think you would be fine with the Valvoline or the Shell.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2002 V6 4Mo Sedan (Tip - Obviously) and a 2003 1.8T 5M Variant

Both are running Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (aka German Castrol) year round. Prior to that, both ran Mobil 1 0W-40 year round. Gets HOT here in the summer and COLD in the winter.

I don't run them because they are on the 502 list, but rather because they are great oils that are affordably priced (for Synthetics) AND readily available.

Both cars are on a 5k OCI. Heat causes oil to breakdown - so make sure that you change your coolant every couple of years too.

Good luck with your ride.
Thanks for weighing in - with your specifics.

A month ago I did at a reliable dealer (not stealership and surprisingly cheaper than independents I contacted and visited with 81,000 miles) the 1st Timing Belt, Water Pump etc job which flushed out all dated coolant; also on the same visit did first brake fluid flush; and pollen filter recall program and dealer said I could pass on the manual transmission fluid change. So just to be on the safe side will do a power steering fluid flush over the next month.
 

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2002 V6 4Mo Sedan (Tip - Obviously) and a 2003 1.8T 5M Variant

... Heat causes oil to breakdown - so make sure that you change your coolant every couple of years too.
Yes, excessive heat causes oil to breakdown but that is not the reason you change you coolant. The reason for changing your coolant is to replace the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze. It has nothing to do with cooling performance. The long life antifreezes have organic acid technology (OAT) inhibitors that are supposedly good for about 5 years / 150,000 miles. The G12 antifreeze has HOAT (hybid OAT) inhibitors and is good for longer than 2 years.
 

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... Important note: I live in San Diego by the coast with a year round temperate climate: with no more than a few days of the year with overnight freeze (garaged anyway!) and summer temps in 70-80's whereas inland San Diego lots of freezing nights with summer temps easily 90 deg +). And checking that out on Valvoline website which asks the mileage and ZIP code that unless I typically tow a load and/or have modifications of a high performance nature, NONE of which is applicable in my situation, nor is stop and go street traffic, THEN I think??? I'll be fine using the Valvoline Synpower 10W30 with oil and filter changes under 5,000 miles doing 95% non peak hr freeway driving or long leisure trip drives).
PM me if you are would like to be invited to my next Passat / A4 / S4 get together in Encinitas. My sons and I use 502.00 in the three turbocharged cars (Passat 1.8T, A4 1.8T, S4 2.7T) and a good HM 10W-40 dino in my old 12-valve 6-cylinder AFC engine (1996 A4). All four cars are on a 3k mi / 5k km OCI for city or congested suburban driving.
 

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If I had a stock V6 of my own and drove it like I drive today, I'd just be using a good filter and cheap oil. There is nothing in the V6 that would require anything other than just good, clean oil. Nothing fancy needed. And I'd change it every 3k because I can't bring myself to go 5k, but that is because I am slightly OCD on some things, not that 5k would be pushing my luck in any way.

A few weeks ago I was at my Mom's house and found out it is a family joke (which I wasn't in on) that when I drive one of their cars, I check the oil sticker and get on them if it is overdue or just close to overdue.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sharky, KenBlasko, John_E, Scotpassat2.8

Based on a fairly thorough review of many posts, this quartet of posters and others represent IMHO a very valuable service to a neophyte in the world of Passats.

In all fairness, the reasons for the post was:
1) to distinguish V6's from turbos and NOT for V6's to share the same heightened sense of concern with oil grade.
2) My recent use of Valvoline Synpower was spurred on by a Kragen promotion where I purchased a few cases.
 

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Hey man, nothing wrong with using what is on sale. I use TropArctic semi-synthetic for one reason and one reason alone: the Wal-Mart Super Tech non-synth is $1.64 a quart, and the TropArctic semi-synthetic is $1.68 a quart. So I totally splurge and go for the good stuff. :)

The only fluid I spend more than I have to spend on it is transmission fluid, mostly because the long change interval where you can defray that cost more.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sharky,

Beyond having Passats in common we've both had "rare" Camry's.

My other wagon is 93 Camry Wagon V6 LE bought new and custom outfitted with every option save a CD player. I've got 285,000 miles on it. Did all the maintenance on it save for timing belts and first brake job was at 215,000 miles since I drove it like a stick after consultation with Toyota in 1st few mos of ownership - no sychro problems ever. Possibly you can see the spectrum change I've been thru recently in the last two mos having been the 2nd owner of my Passat where I've put on 36,000 miles in the last two years (leisure trips).

Thanks for sharing,:thumbup:
Anson
 
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