So I'm going to change the atf fluid in my tiptronic this weekend. I am waiting for my filter and gasket to show up from ECS but should be here tomorrow (12/26). I was wondering should I drain what's in there now currently and fill up with maxlife and run it for a day or two then drain it again and drop the pan and fill it up again with new stuff? So essientally I would drain the current old fluid and put new fluid in and then drain it a second time and change filter and clean pan and fill fluid again with new stuff or should I just wait for the filter to show up and drop the pan and do it once?
Atf fluid change question not a repost
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A gallon of MaxLife is inexpensive enough, so that's not a bad plan. I suggest that you let it drain without running the engine for as long as practical for you, because a substantial amount of fluid will gradually make its way from the torque converter and clutch packs into the pan.
Yes, go ahead and jack up then start draining. I've even lifted the front end higher, in hopes of getting fluid in the cooler circuit to flow back. Whether or not that works, I don't know, but I've been able to drain enough that it takes maybe six quarts to refill, without the pan removal. Of course, level the car before refilling. When you get to the filter change, use a little Vaseline on the filter's seal, otherwise it is difficult to fit into the bore. Wetting with ATF has not helped for me. I also prefer to use Silicone gasket sealant on both sides of the pan gasket, and never have had a leak problem. Lastly, go easy when tightening those pan screws. Obviously a torque wrench is the recommended way, however I just skip every other one around the perimeter and turn "wrist tight". Two times around and you've got all 27 done. And remember, you don't shut the engine off until it won't take any more fluid, and you've reinstalled the fill plug.
I don't think there is a problem draining the old fluid in any position but I wouldn't start the car until it is level and you have oil coming out the fill hole.
Yes, that's actually what I did. Just don't start the engine after leveling and before draining, because the TC, cooler line, and clutches would just fill up again.
Based on personal experience, I would be very cautious about implementing your plan. After a simple drain-and-fill, the transmission in my 1996 A4 (5-speed ZF automatic, no tip manual gear select) engaged late, slipped, and otherwise ran abominably. A full pan drop and filter change a day later solved the problem nicely.
Ok so just so I'm clear as I tackle this tomorrow
I drain all fluid and add new fluid until it over flows
Turn engine on and warm up in park
Once warm go through N,R and P
Once back in P add more fluid until it over flows.
Reinstall 17mm plug then turn car off.
I don't add fluid in each gear right? Just once while cold and once at the end of going through the gears.
I drain all fluid and add new fluid until it over flows
Turn engine on and warm up in park
Once warm go through N,R and P
Once back in P add more fluid until it over flows.
Reinstall 17mm plug then turn car off.
I don't add fluid in each gear right? Just once while cold and once at the end of going through the gears.
Make sure it is in the correct temp range when doing final level check.
taligentx.com: Passat - ATF & Filter Replacement
taligentx.com: Passat - ATF & Filter Replacement
Looks like you're all set. Just try to get the car leveled, as the rear position of the fill port makes that more important. With wheels off the ground, they will rotate, so tap the brakes to stop them before shifting between Reverse and Drive. Going into Park makes no difference for this procedure as that is just Neutral with mechanical locking.
The ATF temp is supposed to be checked, but a warm, not too hot to touch pan is about right. No need to add fluid while in Reverse, Neutral, or Drive (which will be first gear). A couple of shifts through them fill the hydraulic circuits adequately.
I should have mentioned the method that I use, which is simple in concept. The basic equipment is a standard ladder, a funnel, and vinly hose with an elbow fitting at the end. Add to that a drip pan and a tool to squeeze the hose with (I use a needle-nose Vice-Grip pliers). Once the discharge end of the hose is through the plastic part at the top of the fill port, and the funnel suitably attached or supported by the ladder, start pouring your ATF in. You can stop the flow as needed by using the pinch-tool.
By the way, the 14mm hex driver shown in my photo is not the correct size for the drain plug. And the "topping up hose" arrangement is simply the cap of an ATF container, with a hole for the hose as shown. The fit should be tight, so when you squeeze the plastic ATF container, fluid comes out of the hose.
By the way, the 14mm hex driver shown in my photo is not the correct size for the drain plug. And the "topping up hose" arrangement is simply the cap of an ATF container, with a hole for the hose as shown. The fit should be tight, so when you squeeze the plastic ATF container, fluid comes out of the hose.
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So an update. I got new fluid in. I didn't do the pan drop and filter change. I just drained old fluid and added new stuff for now. I'm not sure how much I drained as I haven't measured it yet but I would say 3-4 quarts. It took 6 full quarts of new stuff on refilling. I'm thinking my trans slip when warm was due to low fluid. I have driven it around and so far no slips and it shifts much smoother overall. I'm going to drive it like this for a few thousand miles then do a complete pan drop and filter change and add more new fluid into it.
The old fluid smelled like used atf fluid but not burnt.
The old fluid smelled like used atf fluid but not burnt.
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