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Discussion Starter #1
2005 VW Passat GL TDI. I started to replace my struts and axels. The bolt that holds the upper control arms to the hub/spindle was frozen in. WD, hammer, and drill. Nothing worked. Now I am attempting to get the spindle off so I can better work on removing the bolt. I have everything disconnected. The anti lock brake sensor is the last thing to remove. I pulled it from where the sensor plugs into the hub. My question now is how do I feed it through the spindle bracket to remove it. The holes in the spindle arm are too small for the plug to go through. Does the plug on the sensor wire come off? Do I have to disconnect it from the anti lock module and fish it through? HELP!
 

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Look at the rear side of the wheel well. See the rubber grommet, where the sensor wiring enters the car? Pop that out (towards you), and feed out a little wire. There be the plugs that connect it to the car.
If you need to replace the sensor, the plug ends of it feed thru the knuckle. Slowly and methodically.

I'm impressed that the speed sensor actually came out of the knuckle.. Intact? Or, did you destroy it?
 

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I thought the plug is behind the wheel well cover, but it's been a while.
 

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The bolt that holds the upper control arms to the hub/spindle was frozen in. WD, hammer, and drill. Nothing worked.
The driver's side on my 02 GLX 4Mo Wagon took me over three hours of pounding and PB blaster, and heat, etc to get it out. The other side took over 12 hours. would have taken less had the bolt not snapped. I ended up having to cut it in the middle with an angle grinder, drill out part of it, and also use MAPP (because I don't have oxyacetelyne) gas because propane wasn't hot enough before I got it all out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you have the spindle off the car? That is why I wanted to disconnect the brake sensor. Once I have it off I will beat it with a hammer with wood under it. If necessary I will take it to a shop that has a press. I do not have that many hours invested but probably about 1/2 yours!
 

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nope.
no lift either. it sucked.
I actually gave up at some point, went and cried for like 2 minutes....this was about 8 hours into that 12 hours.
I didn't really have any other option as this is my only operating vehicle right, and I had to get it done or else I would have had to take a day off work.
I was getting pretty close to taking the spindle out, probably could have saved myself some hours by taking the spindle out off the bat.
 

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I wouldn't worry about being careful with the ABS sensor. You can get a replacement brake pad/ABS sensor with harness for $15 on eBay or Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the responses. I removed the spindle after getting the antilock sensor disconnected. I tried beating it on a piece of wood and the bolt will not budge. Heating it is risky because I can not remove the upper control arm without getting the bolt out. It has a rubber grease seal by the bolt. I am going to take it today and see if a shop can get it out with a press. I live in El Paso, Texas and it is very dry here. I can only imagine if I was in a costal/humid area! I will keep everyone posted.
 

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You will want to replace the bolts and nuts anyway.

Try this (if the bolt isn't too buggered up from your attempts to remove it):

  • Screw the nut back on until the end of the bolt is almost flush. Beat on that sucker a few times with a 5lb persuader (sledge).
  • You can also give some love taps to the other end to help break it loose.
  • Also, get in the slots with a somewhat narrow flathead screwdriver and give the screwdriver a few wacks with the sledge to shock the bolt from the side.
Put some aintiseize on the new ones. If you do not have an impact wrench (air or electric), get one. It's an invaluable tool for these cars. Just use it wisely. For instance, lighter tq setting for shocking bolts loose and higher for removing the wheel bolts, various nuts that aren't frozen, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks! I did all that! Do I need grade 8 bolt and nut? I brought it to a shop yesterday and they are going to torch it to remove the remaining piece of the bolt. Of course, that means that the boot on the tie rod will melt. I will have to purchase a new upper control arm. Ebay has them for less than $19 with free shipping! Again, thanks for all the responses!
 

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Thanks! I did all that! Do I need grade 8 bolt and nut? I brought it to a shop yesterday and they are going to torch it to remove the remaining piece of the bolt. Of course, that means that the boot on the tie rod will melt. I will have to purchase a new upper control arm. Ebay has them for less than $19 with free shipping! Again, thanks for all the responses!
you can cut the bolt with an angle grinder and pop the UCAs off. Granted I was replacing the UCAs so I didn't care if I nicked it or not.
 

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I would get the OEM replacement bolts, personally. They are only a few $

I don't know what grade they are, but they do not provide a lot of clamping force. They slide thru the narrower midsection of control arm ball joint stud to hold it in and lightly pinch the whole assembly. Same idea with the TRE. IIRC, the torque on the nut is only 30ftlb
 
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