Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 passat 2.8l glx
Tie rod ends gone and control arms clunking.
When purchasing new upper control arms and it says left and right do they mean looking into the wheel well the control arm twards the front of the car is the left and twards the back is the right?

The parts sites are saying one per vehicle there is 2 correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Left is always driver side/ Right always passenger

Always imagine the car as if you were sitting in the driver seat.

Here are your part #'s

Driver side upper
Front pos 8E0 407 505A
Rear pos 8E0 407 509A

Pass Front upper
Front Pos 8E0 407 506A
Rear pos 8E0 407 510A

Make sure the ball joints in the control arms are actually bad many times the clunking is just from the tie rod ends being sloppy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Replaced the tie rod end. the upper dricerside control arm rear position was the bad one. the ball joint is broke. That is the one i did not buy so now I have to go back in when it arives in a week.
Do you have to tourqe the uppers at ride hight as well?
Can you put them on drop the car down and then tourqe the bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What is the manufaqcturer and where do I get these? I ordered some from Moog and they are an inch too long.
I need the right ones asap.
Please direct me to a site or online store for the correct ones
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
ECS Tuning and PAP Parts both sell the proper ones. The Febi kit is popular, it's what I used. You can buy a complete kit from both stores.

You can't get in there to torque the bolts with the wheels on, least not the uppers.

What I did was measure the distance between the fender and the axle nut with the wheels on the ground. When I had it up and the new parts on, I put a piece of wood under the suspension, jacked it up until the axle nut was where it should be and torqued it all down.
 
Joined
·
8,184 Posts
I had the fastest del time and a great kit from PAPparts. Hell I got my kit in a day...thats outstanding (no extra shipping cost)! All the bolts and nuts needed for the job..the best kit I have ever installed (well not the CPP..lol.) but just great
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
Pap took 2 days for me (they ship from the midwest), excellent product and great savings buying the kit all together.

I torqued the uppers at ride height using what GreenCar mentioned.

I found it VERY tight up there when reassembled, not cavernous like the Audiworld write-up suggested (i believe he was using very narrow coilover springs in his pics).

The ideal method would be to take an approximate measurement of the ride-height angle of the arms to the upper strut plate beforehand and re-torque them BEFORE putting the whole assembly back on the car. My $0.02, either way works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,658 Posts
There are numerous post about this issue. Do a search. Myself and some of the veteran members / posters and other members have written about this issue quite extensively.
Heed all advice concerning the torqueing of components with vehicle at ride height, otherwise you risk a bad install and repeat problems within months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This whole experience makes me gun shy. I bought according to the right vehicle and they are different than what is on my car. So if I buy from these other sites they will be correct? I assumed the first ones would have been correct. I hate RMA's!!! Has anybody run into this problem with any parts that say they are for your vw but do not fit? Is there a difference for a glx?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
Nope, all the B5/5.5 Passats and same-gen Audi A4/A6/Allroad have the same set of arms. The Febi set even tells you the part that they replace (in addition to the "new" part number).

My new sway bar links were different than stock, but not substantially--old links had built-in ball joints and the new ones required nuts and bolts. Everything else was visually identical to my current car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I ended up buying the parts from an ebay store I got a set of the 4 upper control arms for $105 us with free shipping. I am going to have them thursday or friday and put them on this weekend. I did find out they were very easy to change. Sprayed some penetrating oil on a couple of days prior and then cracked them loose and re torqed and I am ready to rock. The pinch bolt was no problem on mine. i will also be doing the tie rod ends for good measure
 

·
Lefties have rights, too!
Joined
·
15,698 Posts
I ended up buying the parts from an ebay store I got a set of the 4 upper control arms for $105 us with free shipping. I am going to have them thursday or friday and put them on this weekend. I did find out they were very easy to change. Sprayed some penetrating oil on a couple of days prior and then cracked them loose and re torqed and I am ready to rock. The pinch bolt was no problem on mine. i will also be doing the tie rod ends for good measure
What brand did you get?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,106 Posts
The rear control arms? are they a pain or better than the front?

There aren't any on the rear axle of a FWD Passat--usually "rears" means the posterior ones--ie, of the four control arms on each side, two of them are rears, two of them are fronts.

The lowers are 10x harder than the uppers, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How do you get the bolt out of the upper front control arm? It does not have enough room to back out before hitting the wheel well. Am I missing a trick to getting it out? I was going to take a bolt cutters and cut the head off and go the other way out towards the spring side.

I would like some input if there is any info from anybody who has been here.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top