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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When buying amps, the question I want to ask is, "How good is good enough?"

I don't need enough power to like kill animals. I don't care how it looks. I just want something that is clean sounding and reliable.

I think that like 60 x 4 (or 75 x 4 ) is enough to drive my front and rear comps. (Will be using Monsoon HU along with Blaupunkt high level to RCA adaptor)

Crutchfield has some Sony and Kenwoods amps in this power range for like $200 to $250. I can see no reason to spend like another $100 for Alpine or Phoenix Gold.

And then 200 w mono for a sub.

I just noticed this: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zs4ooN...g=120&I=108R5760A&o=p&a=0&cc=01&avf=N&search=

It's an Infinity that is 56 x 4 PLUS a 107 x 2 (bridgeable).

Is there anything inherently wrong with such "combo" amps? I assume that the sub amp will not draw from the main 4 ch amp portion. This would save some install time and probably take up less room than the 2 separate amps I was planning for.
 

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Unless you're clipping your amp or it has some built int processing, they all sound the same. What this means is that as long as you have enough power to keep from clipping too badly, you'll be fine and won't notice any sonic differences. If youlike the Infinity, go with it.


Paul :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
achow said:
its all personal preference...always remember you have to match your compnents with the corret power to get he best of your stuff...i would change out the deck before you even think of adding anything else...
Change out the deck first? I couldn't disagree more. This might have been true years ago when we all listened to cassettes. And it might also be true if one listens to music on the radio alot.

But I feel that the speakers are definately the weak link in the system.

Besides...I love the steering wheels volume controls.
 

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Older Infinity amps were better IMO, but if you are on a budget and want to get that one, go for it. Then again I didnt even hesitate when i shelled out 350 for an amp rated at 2x13.5 (heavily under rated). In all honesty there is no reason for you to amp your rear speakers, gauranteed you can't hear them over your fronts in the first place so a 4 channel amp would be a waste of money, unless you run the front speakers off the front two channels, then run the sub off 3-4 channels bridged, then I could see a reason for a 4 channel amp.

Also, the HU is where it all starts man, you go cheap there you are really just cheating your self in the long run. My deck may not be flashy, well actually its not flashy at all, but it sounds leaps and bounds better than the stock clarion pos they give you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can hear my rear speakers now. And it does make a difference.

About six months ago I replaced two pairs of comps in my Golf. I did the front first... then the rear. It made a big diffence. And I do have a sub in the Golf. I do have the front and rear fade adjusted so that I can just barely hear the rear.

Besides, what about when people ride in my back seat? Granted, the rears don't need as much power. So maybe bridging the rear for the sub is a good idea and then getting a second, weaker amp for the rear would work.
 

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I agree with bass lover, the rear speakers are mainly for fill. If you get a good 3 channel amp (xtant 403a 50x2,100x1 rms @ 4 ohms) then you can leave the rears stock and power them off the headunit. All in all, It depends on how loud you want it. Bass overkill or a nice clear sound ( ala home theatre). But I would check ebay for amps. Check xtant and precision power out. You can get a good 3/4 channel for around $200-350 and it's rms clean power(.02/.04 thd).


-chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I do have a Monsoon amp... which I guess I could use to drive the rears. Any body have any idea how much power the HU provides?

I just want clear sound.

I think that using such a blend of OE and aftermarket stuff might be hard to "balance"... especially since the OE speakers are 2 ohm. But I could just replace the tweeters and leave the stock rear "subs"
 

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Stock hu amp is probably 5-10 watts rms, add an aftermarket amp to the stock fronts you will hear a difference, even if you only get like a 2x50 watt amp, you will notice a change.
 

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bass_lover1 said:
Stock hu amp is probably 5-10 watts rms, add an aftermarket amp to the stock fronts you will hear a difference, even if you only get like a 2x50 watt amp, you will notice a change.
Except that with the Monsoon system the crossover for the speakers is built into the amp so you either need an 8-channel amp with a crossover section that can be set at 3-4KHz or a 4-channel amp and some custom built passive crossovers to split the signal to the speakers. Not as easy as it seems.


Paul :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would still love to know how the rear speakers are crossed over in the Monsoon amp? They definately put out more bass than the front and the manual even calls them "subs".

WHY is this information so elusive??
 

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Simple, the amp has a filter built into it. Whether the rear speakers are subs or not has nothing to do with how they're crossed over. It sounds like they're crossed over the same as the front speakers but with more of a low end boost then the fronts and I'm pretty sure the speakers have more XMax as well. You could try contacting Monsoon directly and ask them. www.monsoonaudio.com


Paul :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That link goes to a website that is apparently under construction.

At any rate.. I think that I'll just go with separate 4 ch amp for the comps (like 75 to 100 w/ ch) (front and rear) then a mono sub amp... like 200 to 300 w

And I guess I'll need to add some sort of signal processor or eq as the "low, mid, and high" controls on the HU won't cut it.
 

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quality_sound said:
bass_lover1 said:
Stock hu amp is probably 5-10 watts rms, add an aftermarket amp to the stock fronts you will hear a difference, even if you only get like a 2x50 watt amp, you will notice a change.
Except that with the Monsoon system the crossover for the speakers is built into the amp so you either need an 8-channel amp with a crossover section that can be set at 3-4KHz or a 4-channel amp and some custom built passive crossovers to split the signal to the speakers. Not as easy as it seems.


Paul :thumbup:
^^^ Reason why OEM "quality" stereo systems blow. A, they dont sound that great, and B, when you want to replace parts, its nearly impossible.

Also, you could go with an active x-over. Would be much easier than your proposed eight channel amp idea. Also the tweet and mid have to be parallel or series wired, or both, somewhere along the line, pretty sure you could just swap out the amp and wire it. Also, I'm assuming the monsoon is different because the tweets in my B5 have a capacitor inline as their x-over. I just assumed that the rest of em did as well, but apparently not.
 

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bass_lover1 said:
^^^ Reason why OEM "quality" stereo systems blow. A, they dont sound that great, and B, when you want to replace parts, its nearly impossible.

Also, you could go with an active x-over. Would be much easier than your proposed eight channel amp idea.
Ummmm....my 8-channel amp idea IS active. An active system has a separate channel for each speaker. The OEM Monsoon amp is an active system. Just because the crossover is built into the amp doesn't mean it's a passive system.

Also the tweet and mid have to be parallel or series wired, or both, somewhere along the line
Nope, the HU sends a 4-channel stereo signal (front L and R and rear L and R) to the Monsoon amp then the active crossover in the amp divides each channel into high-pass and low-pass signals. The speakers never share a single wire.

pretty sure you could just swap out the amp and wire it.
If you have 8 channels with active filtering or 4 channels and some passive filtering. You'd still have to run power, ground and remote turn on leads.

Also, I'm assuming the monsoon is different because the tweets in my B5 have a capacitor inline as their x-over. I just assumed that the rest of em did as well, but apparently not.
The Monsoon system is a totally different animal. I wish everyday I could have located a car without it. At least it'll force me to do it all at once instead of dicking around with it like I did in my wife's 99.


Paul :thumbup:
 

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I just bought a 04 passat tdi wagon, with the monsoon system. my advice, if you can afford it, change it all. I'm installing a/d/s/ components, image dynamics sub, one 4 channel arc audio amp and a 2 channel amp , with kenwood excelon 915 dvd player and I will still have controls from the steering wheel.
 

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vodosoul said:
I just bought a 04 passat tdi wagon, with the monsoon system. my advice, if you can afford it, change it all. I'm installing a/d/s/ components, image dynamics sub, one 4 channel arc audio amp and a 2 channel amp , with kenwood excelon 915 dvd player and I will still have controls from the steering wheel.
I'm assuming you will be using some aftermarket steering wheel control device?

Otherwise, tell us how you're getting the factory controls to work with you Kenwood HU. If you can do it, let us all know.

That's the only thing that is holding me back from upgrading my HU...

Jimmy :)
 
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