So I’m looking at swapping the stock 90amp alternator on my car for a 120 amo which I know is a direct fit. I just found out that there is a 150 amp alternator. Does anyone know if the 150 is a direct fit aswell. My reason for changing the alternator out is with my audio setup, the voltage is getting lower then I would like and I’m about to get a larger setup in the next few weeks
Do a quick check with a Voltmeter at the battery posts, with the engine running and your sound system both on and off, before placing the blame on the OE alternator.
Don't know first hand, but I think a 150A W8 alternator would fit on a 1.8t. However those are water cooled (probably because W8's are so tightly packed that there is no sufficient air flow for cooling). A4 1.8t's have 150A alternators as well (B6 cabrios at least) that are air cooled, but mounting points are different.
I currently have a volt gauge so I am monitoring my voltage with my stero running full tilt. At full tilt it at times dropes to 12.9 which is still safe but will drop more when the new setup is in
Oh boy, it's a good thing Paul (qualitysound) isn't around here anymore. Veterans know what I'm talking about.
There has been much debate over alternator size to power a stereo setup.
As a person who is very heavy into high end car and home audio I can speak from experience.
I used to have (4) Kenwood amps (2) of which were bridged in my car, I never had any problems with the stock 120 amp alternator.
The single biggest issue is matching all the power and ground cable to the SAME size. Just because you got a ØØØ power feed to the stereo rig doesn't mean all is fine. DC voltage works in a loop. It needs the same size wire on the negative side too. And that also means between the battery post and the ground of the car. The POS wire on the alternator should also be the same size.
I'm not saying I had the loudest system out there, but I will tell you that all of my systems that I have had were absolutely distortion free and had way more volume than anybody could handle. Including myself.
There are many other factors that make a stereo crank other than just slamming an assload of power into some speakers.
Here are the amps that were in my car. The (2) smaller KAC-823's were the bridged running the subs. One amp for the left sub, the other amp for the right sub.
The (2) larger KAC-927's were running normal stereo mode with one amp running the tweeters and the other amp running the mids.
Should have mentioned, the big three was already done using 0 gauge as well as a group 31 agm in the hatch
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