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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings everyone, as you can see I'm new to the forums. Just picked up my silver 2000 Passat a week ago and I'm loving it. My question is this.. I'm leaving for Penn State in 2 weeks and I want to add some bass to the stock Monsoon. WILL the Basslink help out OR be a lost cause due to the trunk/cabin separation. I'm looking to see what experiences people had with them. I dont have the money for a separate sub/amp combo and this looks like an easy install. All thoughts are appreciated!

-Tyler :confused:

PS.. Also looking for a USA Spect iPod adapter too so i can plug in my 60GB :D
 

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First off...Down with the Nittany Lions... Go Buckeyes!!!

Really... If you have the money for an Infinity Basslink you can afford an amp/sub setup. In my opinion I think that the only reason to get basslink might be a space saver. If you are set on a basslink you might be happy with it. If you are loooking to "make the kid in the honda civic next to you cry" keep looking. If you are looking to add a little depth to you listening pleasure, basslink might be a way to go. I am not too familiar with the basslink installation, but I can't imagine it is much different from a sub/amp install. Still needs power, ground, and audio signal. It might be signal sensing, but the remote wire is easy anyway when you are just adding to a stock system.

thad.
 

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I had a basslink in my 03 passat for about 8-months before the amp in the basslink took a dump! When it worked, like Darth said if you are looking for earth sharttering bass you will be SORELY dissapointed. But, it did add a little in the low end. In all honesty I would spend a few extra bucks and get an amp/sub setup. Only reason I ran the basslink was because it was left over from a truck I owned and in the truck it was perfect.(small footprint) Just my two cents! :thumbup:
 

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bazooka.com
i have an amped corssed over tube and it sounds great and takes very little time to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Darth Volkswagen said:
First off...Down with the Nittany Lions... Go Buckeyes!!!
... 17-10 baby!! haha

Anyway, I don't know if I do have the time or money for a separate sub/amp combo. I'm not looking to rattle the car loose but I do want some extra thump. The Basslink will be $200 bucks shipped to my door brand new and I dont know what type of stuff would provide good quality at that $200-$250 pricepoint? Any ideas?

Also, if I did go the sub/amp route, I'm guessing I would need line output converters tapped into the rear speaker wire (not tweeters) before going into the monsoon amp? I like the quality and clarity of the monsoon system I just want some bass!!
 

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wouldn't you still need line out convertors for the basslink?
 

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^^^unless the basslink has speaker level inputs.
You are not going to be spending any less time installing a basslink than a sub/amp combo. Unless you build your own box.

Example of a budget sub/amp combo:
eD 11Kv.2 D4 - $65 + shipping
Pioneer Premier GM-7150M 800 on eBay ~ $95 Shipped.
Box - $50 or a lot cheaper and better if you build yourself.
Wiring (which you should need to buy either way - unless included w/ Basslink) - $15 + Shipping
Line output converter - $5

thad.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, it looks like I may be better off looking into a sub/amp setup. In particular I found this Rockford Fosgate P312D4 on eBay for about $135 bucks shipped. A friend has a two year old model of this sub and I was really impressed with it. As for the amp I would look into the one you posted Darth. I was reading that it actually has speaker level inputs.. so am I wrong in saying I wouldn't need the Line Output Converter? (Otherwise, I wouldn't know the difference between this, this, or this LOC). I would probably buy the box, and wiring since I'm not exactly the type to build my own box haha. Any thoughts on that setup?
 

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basslink is awesome, it has generous power, certain songs really pound and sounds great. its not hear me down the street loud, but it is a great sound inside the car, the thing is so small and it is simple to hook up, highly recommended especially since on ebay you can pick them up brand new for like 180 shipped
 

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I would stick with the sub I recommended or something a little more similar. with the RF you would want a little more amp than the one I suggested. Plus, the eD is less expensive. RMS for the RF sub is 500w while the suggsested RMS for the eD is 250-500w, which is a better match for the pioneer amp. That is correct, with speaker level inputs you would not need an LOC. If you are set on the RF sub, you are going to be spending a little more money on an amp that will match the sub in power.

thad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thad, i've never heard of eD subwoofers? Have you tried their equipment before? I usually only go with a brand I've seen or had experience with. But I do like to go off user testimonials too. What is the difference between say an 11Kv.2 D4 and an 11Ov.2 D4. At that price I wouldn't mind paying for a little more sub if the quality is there.. know what I mean? Shipping will run me about $15 bucks for any of those subs so thats what I'm looking at. As for an amp.. I could probably push the price of it also as long as I end up with good equipment. I wouldn't mind keeping the price under $300 but $350 isn't a stretch if a little more peace of mind is included :thumbup:

Anyway, can you think of any higher power amps that have speaker level inputs?
 

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eD makes VERY good gear.

here's the difference straight from eD's mouth:

It's a question we hear very often. For good reason. We're all always trying to juggle the advantages and disadvantages of spending more money or less money. Hopefully this article will help you determine if you want to move towards the Ov.2 or the Kv.2 drivers.
The goal with each line is sound quality in very small boxes without needing a lot of power. It's to fulfill the needs of people who are interested in listening to music. Bi-products of the throw capabilities are things like output.
The Ov.2 was built on the ideas that made the old A-Series so popular. Small box performance, linearity, and great sound quality. One they are however is a lot more efficient thanks to new advancements. The Kv.2 used a lot of this and by trickling down into the Kv.2 designs they benefited a great deal too.
The biggest differences between the Kv.2 / Ov.2 drivers are the following.
1. Power Handling
2. Output Capabilities
3. Selling Price

The biggest similarities between the Kv.2 / Ov.2 drivers are the following.
1. Major Emphasis on sound quality
2. Major Emphasis on small box performance
3. Major Emphasis on not needing a ton of power
4. Major Emphasis on being versatile
5. One designed to be a drop in upgrade to the other one.

I will try and explain these one by one.
1. Power Handling.
When designing each speaker it was designed more for a power and output range rather than a price point. We'll use the 13Kv.2 and 13Ov.2 in this comparison and the other sizes really have the same general comparative data.
When your using a single amplifier say 100-300watts. The Kv.2 is really best. It's designed for use without a lot of power (takes advantage of it). It can handle a LOT more than this but in this power region the Kv.2 really shines and does some things which surprise even me sometimes. The Kv.2 suspension and coil system is designed to really make use low power even in the 100-200 watt range.
With 300-500 watts your a bit in the grey area. You can go either way. The Kv.2 will easily handle the power but this is getting to the point where you'll be able to hear a audible output difference between the Kv.2 and Ov.2. The Ov.2 will be louder. It won't be 10dB louder but it will be about 1dB with this power.
500-800 watts. The Ov.2 really all around will make better use of the power. Last longer. Take the abuse and really shine in this power region. You could in theory still use the Kv.2 and some people do as a testament to it being a great speaker for the money but if you can afford it the Ov.2 will have audible benefits. This is where the larger coil, more cooling, increased motor, and extra suspension throw really allow the Ov.2 to shine.
2. Output Capabilities.
Both are capable of the same in car requirements we set as a necessary benchmark for the drivers. 10-100Hz in car FR. That being said both the Kv.2 and Ov.2 are easily capable of reproducing the spectrum we're worrying about with subwoofers.
When it comes to brass tax and overall output capabilities the Ov.2 line really does have advantages. Let’s look at the eMAX results:-
9Kv.2 Sealed .25cF Sealed Max SPL - 133.2 dB @ 52Hz
9Kv.2 Vented .50cF Vented Max SPL - 134.00dB @ 55Hz
0.8dB Gain

11Kv.2 Sealed .50cF Sealed Max SPL - 134 dB @ 52Hz
11Kv.2 Vented 1.0cF Vented Max SPL - 136.3 dB @ 52Hz
2.3dB Gain

13Kv.2 Sealed 1.0cF Sealed Max SPL - 136.6 @ 55Hz
13Kv.2 Vented 1.5cF Vented Max SPL - 140.1 @ 50Hz
3.5dB Gain

16Kv.2 Sealed 1.6cF Sealed Max SPL - 140.4 @ 54Hz
16Kv.2 Vented 2.2cF Vented Max SPL - 142.6 @ 50Hz
2.2dB Gain

11Ov.2 Sealed .50cF Sealed Max SPL - 135.1 @ 55Hz
11Ov.2 Vented 1.0cF Vented Max SPL - 137.9 @ 53Hz
2.8dB Gain

13Ov.2 Sealed 1.0cF Sealed Max SPL - 139.6 @ 55Hz
13Ov.2 Vented 1.5cF Vented Max SPL - 141.9 @ 54Hz
2.3dB Gain

16Ov.2 Sealed 1.6cF Sealed Max SPL - 143.5 @ 55Hz
16Ov.2 Vented 2.2cF Vented Max SPL - 145.0 @ 54Hz
1.5dB Gain

As you can see at peak output there are differences. The 13Ov.2 has a 3dB advantage in car over the 13Kv.2 which is already a darn loud speaker. I say that given the amount of success people have had using it for SPL use. From the GA state record to border hoppers to Scott doing 150's with a weekend built box or Steve doing crazy things with just a pair of 11Kv.2's. The Ov.2 just makes a lot of noise when asked to.
In car eMAX tests are even showing the 13Ov.2 to have the output potential of some of the super subs in the output range. The 16Ov.2 costs 1/3rd as much as output wise is running with the big dogs from in-car testing limiting power input at 2400watts.
3. Selling Price
Few things. There are a LOT of ways to make a speaker cheaper to make. There are a lot of ways to make a speaker more expensive to make. Traditionally we do a lot of things which drive our parts cost up. Due to our direct model we can afford to do that. Things like steel or magnet grades are chosen for a reason. When you do things like increase diameter 1" or top plate thickness 40% it really does have major effects when the other parts have to be tooled and machined to match.
The Ov.2 line uses more coil, more clearances, bigger T-Yokes with more depth, custom machined slugs among other things. They cost more to make. More parts, of larger size cost more. Thus. The selling price is higher for these items.
The increased price doesn't come without performance jumps as you can see. It's very justifiable when you throw them in your car and have a listen.
The output capabilities of the Ov.2 line is the exact reason the A-Series has taken so long to be re-released. The Ov.2 is cheaper than the OLD A-Series and in some cases is actually louder….. The A-Series built this incredibly solid reputation for being a extremely loud great sounding speaker line and then came the Ov.2 which does 99% of what the old A-Series did for 30% less money. For the money it’s a no brainier and a real testament to how much performance we’re yanking out of these speakers.
How much potential there is in the Ov.2 is disgusting. Unless your using 1000+ watts the Ov.2 is all around upgrade to the old A-Series. It also can handle a lot more abuse.
If your looking for subwoofers for use with between 100-1000 watts of power to each driver in extremely small boxes with a great deal of output potential. You’ve found them.
Tackling similarities which are really mutual advantages.
1. Major emphasis on sound quality.
As always this is right at the forefront. The idea is and always has been the speakers are meant to re-produce music. While everyone will always have conflicting opinions about how this should be done from a design side if you take a look at customer response and magazine reviews you’ll find I think the hard work hasn’t gone un-noticed.
If your looking for a speaker that was designed to ‘sound good’ you’ve found a whole slew of them right here.
2. Major Emphasis on small box performance
Follow our recommended boxes from .2cF to 2.5cF and you’ll likely find one that will fit your application very well.
The idea is taking up as little space as possible while still getting great sound and plenty of output. Whether it be groceries or a stroller or just a basketball bag we use our cars to transport things and not everyone wants to give up the entire trunk and beak seat to have a great sub stage. With these you don’t need to. We did the hard work so you can use the small boxes.
Eu-700 - .25cF
9Kv.2 - .25cF
11Kv.2, 11Ov.2 - .5cF
13Kv.2, 13Ov.2 – 1.0cF
16Kv.2, 16Ov.2 – 1.6cF
19Ov.2 – 2.5cF
More sound. Less space. Less power required. All signs point in positive directions.
3. Major Emphasis on not needing a ton of power
You’ll quickly find we really spent gobs and gobs of time trying to figure out how to make the speakers ‘burn’ less energy to make the best use of applied power (wattage) that they were given. This idea was integrated into each and every Kv.2 and Ov.2 speaker.
If you can make the v.2 series do with 300w what the original K and O lines did with 400-500 and MORE why not do it? We did. Drop in tests with old K series drivers with more physical xmax show more output with the new v.2 drivers with the same power. Pretty cool! And they take more abuse! And they aren’t on backorder every 2 months because we’ve gotten a lot better at production too!
4. Major Emphasis on being versatile
Small sealed. Small vented. Infinite Baffle.
What’s your requirement? Let us know. There isn’t a single Kv.2 or Ov.2 speaker that can’t do all 3 things. We didn’t want to have 15 different speaker lines. We wanted to have a few that fit a wide range of applications based around saving space and the be all ideal of if it doesn’t sound good throw it away.
D2 / D4 in every single model. Where does you amp work best in this application. Let us know because if we’ve got a driver that fits the power / box requirements we can definitely fill the wiring side as well.
5. One designed to be a drop in upgrade to the other one.
This is one of my favorite things to talk about. As a kid I was always and still am upgrading stuff. One of the things I hated most was having to build new boxes or cut new holes or spend hours rebuilding the entire stereo around changing 1 speaker. Drove me nuts. Every little upgrade turned into a nightmare.
The Kv.2 and Ov.2 lines are designed to be used interchangeably with one another. They share the same box sizes, mounting holes, mounting diameter. If you start with a 13Kv.2 and add a bigger amp you can upgrade to a 13Ov.2 and get the acoustic benefits without swapping the box. Same goes if you decide you want to use less power or a single 4 channel amp and don’t need “all that bass” you can swap down to a 13Kv.2 from a 13Ov.2 and use the same power.
The Kv.2 and Ov.2 lines have years of work and tweaking that got them where they are today. The differences from the outside are subtle in terms of cosmetics and we wanted that. They look like they belong to the same family so to speak. From the front we wanted the Kv.2 and Ov.2 line to look the same so as people upgraded / swapped their installs around they didn’t need to change everything every time to make it look right.
The differences don’t come down to cosmetics. The ones that matter come right down to power handling and output. You can be guaranteed the performance is there in quantity with the kv.2 or Ov.2 speaker. It’s just a matter of finding the right one for your box size and power application.
If you have questions please feel to ask. I hope this covers a large chunk of the Kv.2 / Ov.2 questions but if you have others please ask us. That’s what we are here for.
Thanks for reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DANG! That is a really awesome write up/comparison of those two lines. It looks like for my situation and price point.. I can't go wrong with a 13Kv.2. I am looking for a 12 (although originally a 10) and this thing looks like I can throw it some lower power for now and maybe upgrade the amp in the future? Thad, do you think the amp you showed me would still work for a 13Kv.2? I'm getting an itch to order some stuff haha!
 

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both the sub and the amp thad recommended will work together.
now you just need a box, some power cable, and some speaker wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Not to be dumb and helpless, but wouldnt that wiring kit thad posted up above take care of my wiring needs, leaving me to find a box?
 

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13Kv.2 - 350w rms
pioneer premier amp - 360w rms @ 2ohm

I think it is an almost perfect match.

As far as a box. Check out any car audio shop. As far as prefab boxes. I think they are all the same, but I don't know too much about them now. I have just built my own for a while now. The website says the ideal size is 1 cu ft. sealed. That is a pretty common size. Just make sure you know that the box is 1 cu. ft. Knuconceptz make great wiring and is pretty cheap. You should be alright with 8 gauge amp kit, but if you plan on upgrading go for the 4 gauge or if you plan on going really crazy you can get the 0 gauge. My only advice is... be careful this gets addicting.

thad.
 
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